bktaco-

I've been in this dilemma for awhile! I been stuck between a Lockrite (not ideal, but the only thing available for my '01, besides an ARB) and the TrueTrac. Most of my driving is on-road and considerable snow here has to be a consideration. Some time ago byranr posted a thread selling his rig, which had a TrueTrac in the rear. I took the liberty of asking him what he thought of the TrueTrac and here's what he had to say:

"There's a lot of rain/snow here which is why I had the TrueTrac installed. I absolutely loved it. It got rid of the one-wheel spin when taking off during wet conditions. It's very quiet, and you can't hear it. It didn't effect my gas milage at all either. Overall I am very happy with the unit."

My '01 has A-Trac (Active Trac) which uses the ABS to control wheel spin. In my mind, I believe an TrueTrac would been tough to beat since A-Trac would do any brake biasing for me, and I wouldn't be sacrificing any on-road performance.

 

my "lincoln" locker is not noticeable unless im pullin' a u turn or backing out of a driveway/parking spot. I would put in an aussie for the rear and a trutrac for the front.

 

good info gents, muchas garcias!

 

I vote Detroit Truetrac! I am planning to purchase one to rear (instead of factory LSD which don´t work anymore). I can´t see anything minus in it, only plus +++ what I´m reading/heard about it.

 

Hey guys, this is only my second time posting on this site. I joined because I'm considering buying a 4 Runner to replace the '94 Mazda Navajo (same as a 2 door '91-'94 Ford Explorer) I just totalled.

In my Navajo, I used to have a Lock Right rear and Detroit EZ Locker front, now I have No Slips front and rear.

TEPUI, they don't "kind of" disengage during a turn, they totally disengage during a turn. Neither the Lock Right or No Slip will fail to disengage in a turn, unlike the Detroit Locker, which might not disengage because of the slight reverse angle cut of the locking teeth.

The Lock Right is a lot more noticable than the No Slip when it ratchets, but it does disengage quite easily while turning. The ONLY exception might be ice, which might not allow enough torque to cause differentiation. And this would probably affect the Lock Right more than the No Slip.

The No Slip, is like a modified and re-engineered Lock Right, and it doesn't ratchet. Instead, the coupler halves on the same side as the outside wheel separate, instead of ratcheting like the Lock Right.

This, along with springs that dampen the extra backlash (play) caused by running a locker, make the No Slip about 80% smoother and 99% quieter than a Lock Right. Plus, the No Slip's teeth wont wear out nearly as fast.

I had a Lock Right in the Ford 8.8 rear of my Navajo for about 37,000 miles before it wore out enough that the driver side coupler would ratchet while going straight under heavy load. I replaced it with the No Slip and now have over twice the milage on it with no problems.

Just before I totalled the Navajo, I had the rear end apart, and noticed no unusual wear on the No Slip.

I had both lockers in the same axle of the same vehicle, so that is a good test. I recommend paying the extra $100-$150 for the No Slip instead of a Lock Right. It is well worth the money, especially for a vehicle you will drive on curvy roads, tow with, or take long trips in. I've done all 3 at the same time, going from Florida to Kentucky while towing my streetbike on a trailer with my Navajo. BELIEVE ME, THE NO SLIP WAS MUCH BETTER THAN THE LOCK RIGHT.

When I installed the Detroit EZ Locker in the front of my Navajo, I went to the Ocala National Forest here in Florida to test it. The first time I used it in 4wd, after no more than 20 minutes of use, I noticed it was ratcheting on one side while going straight.

I took it apart and found that the corners of the coupler teeth had chipped off. Keep in mind that this was no more than 20 minutes of use, and only 31" tires, in sand, with a stock Ford 4.0 V6, and mostly uphill (less load on the front).

I returned it, then paid an extra $150 for a No Slip to replace it.

I've been rockcrawling in Kentucky several years in a row on vacation with it, took it to Moab, Utah last year and rockcrawled, drove it from Florida to Wyoming, Washington State, and California and back in '04, and went to Arizona in '03. The No Slips have performed flawlessly.

If I were to get a limited slip, it would definately be the True Trac. But as good as it is, it won't beat a locker when it comes to traction. However, the True Trac will be more than adequate for most people.

If you are on ice alot, get the True Tracs or selectable lockers, Otherwise, get No Slips.

 

my hat is off to you, i think you are the first person i have ever seen who has rock crawled a mazda navajo. In fact, you are the first person i've ever heard of who even has a mazda navajo.

If you want to have some traction aid, but not spend a bunch of money, then a trutrac will be fine, and work well. It will not be as good as a full on locker, but you are already aware of that. If you want a locker, and not a lot of money, get one of these other things.

If you want to do it right the first time, get ARBs or an elocker and an ARB. open diff for on road and easy wheeling, never know its there. Push a button, and you have a spooled axle, and nothing stops you.

Whatever you do, do not put anthing but the truetrac or an arb up front, unless you don't like steering.

 

Thank you.

My biggest problem rockcrawling with the Navajo has always been gearing more than ground clearance (only slightly taller than stock, plus 31s). Apparently, Ford doesn't seem to think that 4wd vehicles need lower gears.

As far as steering goes, I never really had trouble with the No Slip up front. It's really more technique, using the throttle and steering just right in mud and sand. I really coudn't tell much difference versus the front being open. It doesn't seem to plow any more than stock. If it does, it's not enough to really notice.

With rock crawling, directional control could be a problem, but in order to keep breakage to a minimum I try not to make sharp turns anyway, just to keep from breaking things. I would make a 3 point or 5 point turn when I could have just turned sharp. This is important, because with dual lockers the transfer case binds a whole lot more than with dual open differentials.

 

i can't steer because mine is spooled, but all i have to do is flick the switch and i can steer again.

 

Same here Ike. Or I guess I could unlock a hub...

 

I want an electrac or ARB limited slip air locker for the Toyota.
Has anyone heard news or even thought about an LSD ARB air locker? so that it is a limited slip when not engaged.
I worry after spending all that cash on the ARBS, that they are not even going to be useful when driving in the rain on the highway etc...
but truetracs aren't strong enough to get through the toughest stuff.
isn't there a compromise to get LSD and selectable performance for Toys?

 

I personally have 6 ARB's and 2 E-Lockers. You can guess what I like.

RD02 (FJ Front)
RD08 (FJ Rear)
RD90 (IFS Front)
RD23 (8" Buggy Front)
RD23 (8" Buggy Rear)
RD116 (Dana 44)

2001 Tacoma E-Locker (4.10)
1999 4Runner E-Locker (5.29)

Huges had a Tru-Trac and it was OK. He kept up but had the beat the truck harder to do it.

 

Yep - just like an open diff. In ALOT of intances, being locked will help PREVENT damage (yes, even in the front) by allowing more judicious use of the throttle instead of having to skinny it all the time.

I have never heard of an ARB that is limited slip when unlocked.

I have heard of TONS of problems with the Detroit Electrac, and it won't work in Toyota axles because the actuator needs to be mounted in the diff cover, which we don't have. There is also a new Auburn unit - the ECTED - that is a locking limited slip, but not currently available for Toyota either.

The times you mentioned needing a LSD on the road, you could lock an ARB or elocker.

 

Just an FYI on the ECTED locker; I too wanted one, emailed the Auburn folks awhile back - said, a Yota unit was in the making but wouldn't be avail. for another year or so.......sucks!

 

I know this is an old thread, but I have run a TT in the front of my IFS toyota. Great on the trail, but a BAD choice for snowy/icy 4x4 street and highway driving. Horrible understeer in turns and hard torques to left or right on a snowy/icy hwy under acceleration. For the original poster's application (90% street/hwy in tahoe), I highly reccomend against anything but a selectable front.

 

roger that AJ, thanks for your 2 cents. i havent decided what to do yet regarding lockers or gears. instead, i am restoring and refurbishing more to factory spec until i commit to some gear and locker plan.