So, when my wife and I got home tonight at 10 from dinner, there was a box from TG on the porch...with a new mount inside.

Kudos for them for turning it around so fast, but strange that they didn't know the status when I called them about it.....today.

Got everything I need to finish now

 

Hi guys,

Had some time last night after a softball game to do some last prep on the transmission before it's ready to go back inside.

I re installed the bearing reatainer with the new input shaft seal:
- cleaned both mating surfaces with brake cleaner
- light dab of grease around inside of the new seal
- thin layer of Toyota FIPG around mating surface of bearing retainer
- blue locktite on all 7 bolts (also cleaned threads with tap/die set beforehand)
- Torqued in star pattern to 18 lb/ft


I then installed the throwout bearing in its carrier, the clutch fork, retainer springs, and dust boot.
- Light dab of grease on the pivot point for the clutch fork
- smeared THIN layer of grease on inside of bearing carrier (but not shaft)
- Light dab of grease on the two "ears" or tabs of bearing carrier (where it touches the clutch fork)

The FSM says to put a small amount of grease on the spline, as well as the "fingers" on the pressure plate when I install - ANYWHERE ELSE I SHOULD? I've read before that you want to go sparingly on grease for clutch jobs, so it doesn't end up on the disc itself, right?

There is a little bit of "play" in the clutch fork (i.e. it's not snug on its own against the pivot point, and yes the retainer spring is in there. I'm imagining that it will all snug up once the shaft inserts int the clutch and the throwout bearing is right up against the fingers of the pressure plate, right? RIGHT?

Some photos:

Everything installed, bolted to crossmember, front DS hooked up (no idea how I'm going to get in there and torque those bolts to 54 lb/ft....any suggestions??





All the hardware installed:



Hard to show in photos, but trying to display the "play" that the fork has:






Also, the clips that hold the fork and bearing seem SOOOOO weak.....they just don't seem to have a lot of "holding power" but I've heard that's just how they seem?


Anything else you guys can suggest/reccommend before I try to get this beast back in??

 

pivot point of the clutch fork gets grease, and "socket" at the base (where the slave cyl pushes) as well. that's everything.

no idea on torquing the front d/s

a little play in the fork is what i got too. it snugged up once it was all together.

the clips are only there to keep the thing from spinning, the pressure plate does the rest. mine is just a thin wire clip, so yeah, it's a bit weak.

seems like you're on the right track

 

Thanks Ian!

Were you pretty conservative on the grease for the input shaft? Just a thin coating all around and "wipe clean" with your gloved hand?

 

yeah, kinda. i put it on with the glove, so everything got coated, but no globs.

also, clean the alignment "lugs" and holes. i didn't, and it was ultra snug getting it in.

 

Roger that, thanks!

 

You installed this also right?
[/quote]

 

Hey Buck87 - yep, I installed that all right - it's what holds the fork against the pivot thingie. I was commenting above how it's not 100% snug/tight, but like Ian said, I guess it doesnt' need to be.

 

BTW, buck87, your clip thing looks way beefier than mine...mine is uniform in thickness, like a large paperclip, whereas yours seems to taper and is thicker in many places?

(out of context, I know that sounds so wrong, but it makes sense here lol)

 

flash shadow

 

That's justs the shadows in the photo. Look at the picture on the right.

 

Hey guys,

So I spent a couple hours lasdt night trying to get the darn thing in using the floor jack, tied downs, jack stands and 4x4s....no dice. I got it to one point where it was on the jack (the crossmember is attached to the transmission), the ends of the crossmember were *just* underneath the frame where they mount, and the bellhousing was a few inches from where it attaches. I was able to, on my back, under the bellhousing, guidethe front of the tranny to the pressure plate. The shaft went in, and the edge of the bellhousing was less than 2 inches from being snugged up, but I could NOT get the transmission to fully seat.

Rather than leave it hanging off the pressure plate (though it was supported by the jack at its heaviest point), I backed it out and placed a stack of 4x4s underneath the bellhousing. I will try again tonight.

I'm thinking, next time I get it snugged up, can I use tie downs to pull it toward the engine - any reason that's bad?

Open to other tips...really want to get this thing together!

 

.
I too suffered and had to do it the next day.Just got to make sure the transmission angle is the same as the engine.I had to use longer bolt to help it get closer together and then I took one bolt at a time and switched to the original bolts for the final lockdown.I also checked if the trans spline is in the clutch by turning the crank pulley with my socket wrench attached and if it doesnt turn that means that the trans to block alignment is off.
The key is everything is lined up and the tranny jack secured solid mine fell off and I had to start all over.

 

Heres some pictures of installing my r151f trans on my $20 Napa tranny jack adapter

 

^ what he said. i spent half a day getting it into position. next morning i aligned everything and got it within 1/2", put the 2 side bolts in (17mm), and used those to pull the two together. but make sure the trans and engine are in alignment. it's 80% of the issue

 

[quote=Philbert;51860664]
I'm thinking, next time I get it snugged up, can I use tie downs to pull it toward the engine - any reason that's bad?
quote]



I would ease it in. I'm afraid that you may damage a shaft or the pilot berrying using too much leverage. Don't force it it will go in when it is aligned correctly. Get an assistant. I am available.

 

Thanks guys!

I finally got it in today lined everything up and used tie downs to slowly pull together. I wiggled it every now and then, in between ratcheting. I also used bolts on the bellhousing to finally bring it together.

Torqued the bellhousing bolts and installed some crossmember to frame bolts but the holes are not lining up across the board....may be the trailgear mount.....will address later.

I am so close guys....thanks for the support!

 

Adda boy

 

OK - I'd like some opinions on Gear Oil for this bad boy. I don't want to have to do this job again, and with the time and money invested in this, I want to put in the best oil I can to make this last long and function well.

A good friend of mine, who has an F350 and an old Chevy truck (helped me with my timing chain install and some other stuff - he knows cars and trucks), recommended Amsoil.

I looked up on their site the two they recommend for the W56:

GL5:
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=SVGQT-EA

GL4:
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=MTGQT-EA


Anyone recommend either of these over the other?

I have a tow hitch but likely won't be towing anything soon or if I do, it won't be a lot. Mostly just highway miles, with plans to use for camping, snow, and some day some mud/rock fun.

I'm not sure the benefits of GL4 or GL5, versus each other?

Phil

 

GL4

GL5 is too slick for the snychro's, and you will have shifting issues.