people with 4" sus. and 3" bodly lift
#1
people with 4" sus. and 3" bodly lift
hey fellas i need some pics or some measurements, i have a 3" body lift and just put on a 4" suspension lift but i dont think it sits that high for the amount of lift it has. its got 33" tires also. could someone post pics of their truck or measure ground clearance(fender to wheel gap) with the same set up. thanks
#2
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Location: Temecula Valley, CA
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Just a thought- measuring fender to wheel gap is going to give differing results depending on the size of the wheel- 15", 16", etc.
My 88 with 16"/small 31's and 4" ProComp Stage II (no body lift) / ProComp 33311 4-5" springs in the rear (no blocks) measures 16 3/8" front, 13 1/2" rear (top of rim/wheel lip to bottom of fender edge).
My 88 with 16"/small 31's and 4" ProComp Stage II (no body lift) / ProComp 33311 4-5" springs in the rear (no blocks) measures 16 3/8" front, 13 1/2" rear (top of rim/wheel lip to bottom of fender edge).
#5
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I have heard of this combo I thought it was 3" suspension and 3" body You could get the most lift for less money.
Staying with a 3" was cheap because once you lift over 3" on suspension many corrections must be made. brake lines, driveline, pinion angle, steering,& proportioning valve
So your lifted 7" on 33's? No matter the feder well measurement I would think you ok with up travel LOL I am not sure about your COG though seems tippy.
My neighbors rig is 4" ifs lift with 3" body and he sits way higher than me on 35's with no rubbage problems
I have a 4" Trail gear lift on 36's I cut and hammered out the sheetmetal and all is fine with rubbage and I still think I may be too tippy at times LOL
Staying with a 3" was cheap because once you lift over 3" on suspension many corrections must be made. brake lines, driveline, pinion angle, steering,& proportioning valve
So your lifted 7" on 33's? No matter the feder well measurement I would think you ok with up travel LOL I am not sure about your COG though seems tippy.
My neighbors rig is 4" ifs lift with 3" body and he sits way higher than me on 35's with no rubbage problems
I have a 4" Trail gear lift on 36's I cut and hammered out the sheetmetal and all is fine with rubbage and I still think I may be too tippy at times LOL
#6
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I have heard of this combo I thought it was 3" suspension and 3" body You could get the most lift for less money.
Staying with a 3" was cheap because once you lift over 3" on suspension many corrections must be made. brake lines, driveline, pinion angle, steering,& proportioning valve
....
Staying with a 3" was cheap because once you lift over 3" on suspension many corrections must be made. brake lines, driveline, pinion angle, steering,& proportioning valve
....
#7
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Didn't have to lengthen the brake lines on mine with the 4" ProComp lift, but replaced them with longer braided lines anyways 'cause I plan on going higher and to larger tires as well which the braided lines will help with braking force. But to be honest, the front's were getting to the end of the line, so to speak, at full droop (without the sway bar installed- installed later though).
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#10
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It isn't really a solvable problem, it's like a rorscach test to have a man know himself by studying his inclinations...hence the "when logic breaks down".
#11
#13
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Laziness is my trait.
OP, what's the gap between the tires and fenders? And your question is somewhat unreasonable, a lift block or spacer isn't going to shrink. The problem is you were probably expecting something else if all you've seen is trucks here with that combo...
OP, what's the gap between the tires and fenders? And your question is somewhat unreasonable, a lift block or spacer isn't going to shrink. The problem is you were probably expecting something else if all you've seen is trucks here with that combo...
#14
i should of took some measurements of before and after i think i figured out the problem though when i drive forward the front lowers about two inch's in reverse it raises 2 inch's. im pretty sure that caused by the alignment being way off, my toe is way positive here's how it sits.
#17
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The CV's are fine with it but I'm eating TRE's and idler arms like they were candy. If I had to do it again I would skip the bj spacers I think.
I still may pull them out at some point.
I still may pull them out at some point.
#20
interesting, you could make a bracket to drop the idler arm, and get a dropped pitman arm if anyone makes one. that would put it more into spec and you could keep the bj spacers. i think thats what i might do if i run into trouble.
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