toyoxdm

92 4runner 4x4 v6 automatic

this is the game plan tell me your input please on this setup. I will be offroad on occasion and in some nasty mud sometimes but not really any rock crawling situations for me. here is the list i have started and after input will start the ordering.

aisin manual hubs
-4Runner 90-95 OME & SDORI 4X4 COMBO SUSPENSION KIT
http://www.trdparts4u.com/PD-4RUNNER....aspx?MakeID=1
-OLD MAN EMU torsion bar set for 90-95 4Runner
question for this item do i need to get new hardware i heard they always break taking apart?
-TRUSS FOR 2ND GEN 4RUNNER from emu
-i also want there steering stabilizer kit
-33x12.50 i was told a couple times to get 10.50 instead your advise on this

or

I can get a pro comp stage 2 kit for this vehicle for a little more money from someone i know and it is still new. but it is a 4in lift

another question if i did go with 10.50 can i use factory wheels and just get spacers and if so what size spacers.

i eventually will do a manual swap and maybe a 3.4 or switch to a 4.3. It will be awhile though because this truck only has 108k on it and is in great shape.

next question what is the best option for lockers for what im doing. i think i have 4.56 gears because my truck door jam plate didnt state 31 in tires. do i need to worry about 4.88 gears or 5.29 with the 33's.

i have done alot of searching but have had alot of conflicting info so please dont me to much just looking for some help.


Thank you guys and this forum rocks

abecedarian

With either lift- spacers or the procomp, you'll likely need to space the wheels out about 1-1.5". The ProComp lift specs 3.75" backspacing and I believe stock is 4.75. If you don't space or replace the wheels you'll likely either have the UCA rubbing on the tire (spacers) or rim (ProComp). BJ spacers will get you a little more travel on the front wheels but the ProComp doesn't. 33's will probably rub the body (at full lock and esp. if the wheels are turned and you hit a bump) with the spacers. A moderate body lift will elliminate the issue. With the ProComp kit, 33's will clear.

10.5 is pushing the stock wheels a bit. If you don't air down you should be alright, otherwise the tire will probably roll off the bead.

You can do bj spacers and the ProComp kit for lift and some extra travel but you'll need to relax the t-bars to dial out the lift from the spacers.

If you're not carrying a heavy load up front- big bumper, winch, etc., uprated t-bars are not really necessary... but if you're jumping it you might consider it and some better shocks like bilsteins, obviously sized for your truck / lift.

Silas

I run a factory 8" wide steel rim and have no issues with 10.50 wide tires, its a pretty good match. I'd worry if you had 7"wide rims. Only time i'd go with 10" wide rims is using 12.50 wide tires.

aisin hubs are a good idea.

As far as the re-gear. I'd try the truck with 33's at first, then you'll know how much you want to gear it from the difference in feel from the tires that were on it.

My friend runs 35's on his v-6 auto 4rnr with stock gearing ( woods truck ) and its not that terrible.

toyoxdm

so i do need a 10" wide wheel with 3.75 backspacing for the 33x12.50's.

ordered the aisin hubs 110 shipped.

and i think im just going with the ome kit with there shocks or do you think there is a better shock than the ones with the kit for the same money. i will probably do a 1" body lift also.

im replacing the upper ball joints while im in there and lowers if needed. i will see if my tie rod ends can be loosened for the alignment if not i will replace those as well. I have to replace the wheel bearings on passengerside so i might just do all of them.

Next question what is the part numbers needed to install the aisin manual hubs onto my runner, gaskets etc?

where would you guys get a locker and which do you recommend? I think i am going to get just the rear for now.

thanks again guys for your help

mt_goat

I think 10" rims are too wide for a 12.50 tire, that's what I have now and I won't do that again. The main problem I have is the tire slipping on the rim when aired down and I think a tighter fitting tire/rim combo would help with that. I have done the poorman's bead lock mod to stop the slipping though.

mt_goat

ARB airlocker is the gold standard of selectable lockers, most peeps have them installed at the sametime they regear the diff by whoever sets up the new gears. Zuk may do that, if he does I'd use him. You can order a rear diff already set up with an ARB and just swap it out for what you have in there now but you'll have to install the air compressor, air hose, wiring harness and switches. Then sell you old diff. Or take it out and ship it to someone and wait for it to come back. Or have it installed at a local 4W parts store.

94Runner4x4

I had 15x7 rims on my 31 10.50's and it was perfectly fine. And I would do the BJ spacer/coil combo. You may need to pound the pinch weld to fit the 33's but you shouldn't have to buy spacers if you do the 10.50's.

People say that 5.29's are best for 33's and an auto but I run 4.88's stock and the 33's don't bog it down too much. But then again I didn't buy the 3.0 for speed.

And for the locker there are many choices. It really depends on how much you would be willing to spend on it.