91Toyota

No, the head gasket is not blown. Starts and runs fine. I do have a vacuum leak somewhere and I can't find it. If I had a blown head gasket I would have signs of it. Besides...I have had the low compression in that one cylinder when I bought the truck in december. Oil is as black as it can be, coolant is as green as it can be. Starts fast, idles like , but what the hell, who cares!

HelliphinoN8

oh well, that sucks deserthound. I feel for ya.

HelliphinoN8

91 yota, I feel for you too. I'm pretty sure I gotta vacuum leak on top of my blown gasket. I'm about a week from havin her all buttoned up. I'm probably gonna go but a -load of new hose and replace all the vacuum lines to be safe. I know it'll run better than before, but I'm eager to see if it still surges when the a/c is on.

91Toyota

yeah...I just can't find out where the leak is coming from. Maybe I should buy some starting fluid and replace the lines that I can see that are cracked and has a hole in it. I'll have to get a can of starting fluid and have at it...lol

mt_goat

I think I'd get a box of plugs and disconnect all the vac lines and plug the inlets. Then add them back one at a time until you find a leaky one.

91Toyota

That's a great idea! Where do you find a box of plugs? Like at any auto parts store? Can I just use duct tape over the ends or is that a bad idea because I guess it could get sucked in right?

Also, can missing bolts cause a vacuum leak? Like that plate on the back of the head. I don't think I have all the bolts in...could that be the vacuum problem? Thanks!

mt_goat

Yeah, a couple bucks will buy a box of assorted sizes at most auto parts stores. Duct tape would probably work too. I'm not very familiar with the 22re.

91Toyota

o.k, thanks for the help anyway. It's all cool. You did help though!

Do you know anything about dash-pots?

mt_goat

Not really, just the general theory behind using them.

91Toyota

o.k, thanks! Does anyone know if it is supposed to be touching the butterfly?

abecedarian

The dashpot is there to slow down the throttle/butterfly when it is closing so you don't run a rich mixture and cause backfiring (technically 'afterfiring', but they sound a lot alike). The piston on the dashpot will most likely touch the tab on the throttle when the throttle is 'closed' but if it is set incorrectly it could cause the throttle to not close completely. This will cause the TPS to not register 'idle' to the computer and will confuse the ECU and could affect ignition timing, idle speed and quality.
If you're still having troubles with getting the idle to stabilize, you need to check the throttle position sensor: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml. There is information about setting the throttle plate, dashpot and a lot more there.
Also, make sure you've got clean spark plugs with the correct gap setting.

Are you getting the check engine light lighting up?

SEAIRESCUE

Long thread, and I did not read them all but..

1) Does your thermostat have a small hole in it for air bypass? If not, go get one. Install with little hole to the top.

2) We all assume you installed it in the correct direction, spring inside engine?

That little hole, may have a "jiggle gizmo in it" will purge all the air.

That's all...

91Toyota

Thanks! I have not worked on it for awhile but it doesn't not excessively jerk anymore since I was missing the tap screw that touches the dash pot. I still have a vacuum leak though. I bought some starting fluid to test it out and see if it helps at all.

Thanks. Yeah, I just drilled two holes in my thermostat and it does not overheat now...lol. I was going to buy a dual stage thermostat but I didn't feel like dealing with it. Yes, its in the right position. Thanks for the help though!

91Toyota

Nope. It comes on when you turn the key into the on positions (to know that it works) then when you start it it goes away. Like right when it starts...not like 2 minutes later go away...lol

artinge3

i just got a new rad and i've had to burp it twice in like 300 km. ...its lame, so i may have a similar problem, but i don't over heat, one time while idling in traffic it started to over heat but then i burped and it hasn't come back yet...i still sometimes hear the water moving inside, meaning air in the system.

91Toyota

That sucks. Hopefully you will get it all cleared up.

beaker

I have that ezact problem with my 94'. I can't get the air purged from the coolant lines. I've tried everything. The closest I've come to fixing the problem was drilling 2 - 1/8" holes in the bottom flange of my therm. It helped, and in fact worked for the most part, but I wasn't sure that it was opening correctly so I went back to running without a stat. My idle has been regularly above normal but not more than 1100 or so.

If you find out anything more about it, please post an update.

91Toyota

So, you drilled holes in the t-stat or not?? That fixed my problem right away.

beaker

yes i did. and it worked for the most part.
but on really hot days, i was still flirting with overheating.

91Toyota

Hmm...thats interesting. Did you put stop leak in or anything like that? Is it "actually" over-heating? Could be a case of a faulty sending unit. My dads ford had a faulty sending unit on his 460 and it said that it was over heating. Never actually was. New sending unit was a couple bucks and fixed the annoying problem.

Also, how is your fan clutch? I'm guessing if it gets hot like that on hot days...something must be wrong.