My auto trans just went out on me. I took a chance and bought a used tranny. I did the swap in about a day and a half. So far, it seems to be a good one.

After about an hour of running errands I parked the truck at home and when I started it back up it didn't want to advance in D, 2, or L. It would move but sluggish (barely). Then I noticed the O/D light was flashing. I turned off the O/D and the problem persisted.

I left the truck alone for about 5 hours. I started it back up and it was fine. Any suggestions? Do I have a short, bad sensor, or faulty solenoid?

Overdrive does engage while driving.

 

The OD light flashing should mean there is a trouble code stored by the ECU. Sorry I'm not sure how to retreive it.

 

check the sticky at the top of the page for the 90-95 4runner, there should be plenty of links to factory service manuals that will help you figure out how to read the codes and possible repairs.

keep us posted.

lee

 

Checking the codes:

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the vehicle).

Make sure the O/D button is in the ON position.

Find the DG terminal - a small (gray, I believe) connector coming off of the wiring harness that runs along the driver's side wheel well, between the air filter and coil pack. Ground this terminal with a jumper wire.

Count the number of times the O/D light flashes.
Normal = 2x/sec.
4 flashes followed by 2 flashes = Bad #1 speed sensor (in combination meter), severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.
6 then 1 = Bad #2 speed sensor (tranny), severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.
6 then 2 = Bad #1 solenoid, severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.
6 then 3 = Bad #2 solenoid, severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.
6 then 4 = Bad lock-up solenoid, severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.
6 then 5 = Bad #4 solenoid, severed/disconnected wire or short circuit.

To clear the stored codes, with the key in the OFF position, pull the STOP fuse (probably top right of the fuse panel) for 10 seconds.

 

I have found two little connectors hooked up to each other in the area that you talk about that are gray, to i unhook one and then ground it or will or is there suppose to be an un hooked up one for me to ground?

 

If you have the grey diagnostic box on the pass. wheel well, you can jump the TE1 and E1 terminals.....just like pulling engine codes. All but the A43D in the FSM have this diagnostic system.

Look under "diagnostic system" after you've determined what transmission you have. That will be on the VIN plaque on the door jam along with the trim, axle, etc. codes.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...autotrans.html

Here's more:
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h17.pdf

 

Sorry guys. I posted a whole bunch of stuff earlier and now it's not appearing. I will update it again.

 

It should be a single, unattached connection. Mine is a yellowish-gray - may have been white 20 years ago.

 

I do believe his is not going to be the same as yours being you have different body styles. His a 2nd gen. Lots different than 1st gens.

 

Here are a couple links on troubleshooting and code reading realted to the A340H transmission.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl153g.htm

http://www.toyotaholics.com/support/...sp?TOPIC_ID=19

I still haven't torn into my transmission to change my No.2 solenoid. When I do so I will take pictures and post details for anyone wishing to tackle the project themselves. Toyota offers the No.2 solenoid for about $230. I found the following website that offers all 3 solenoids for around $160 + tax & shipping. Seems like the way to go. I figure since you have to pull the pan and your already under there might as well change all 3.

http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...roduct_Count=0

 

That's a good idea.

 

You can also pick up solenoids out of a Cherokee of the same time frames.
ie 90's

I picked up all three at the Junk yard for cheap.

Test-em before you buy or at least before you install.

two jumpers, one to ground one to power solenoid should click open.

 

Sorry I haven't followed up with this thread in a while. Back in March I finally fixed my shifting problem. The code was for the No. 2 solenoid. The Toyota dealer wanted over $200 for one solenoid. I'm not a big fan of buying used electrical parts especially when they are installed in a hard to get to area.

Since I was already going to be dropping the pan I decided to buy all three solenoids. Part #97420K from http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=A340solenoid . I think I paid in the neighborhood of $180 with shipping (for all 3).

Once you drop the pan all 3 solenoids are in view and easily accessible. I had a Toyota Tech tell me the solenoid I needed to change was way inside the tranny and that I'd have to drop the valve body. That turned out not to be true.

I didn't get a chance to take any pictures. The job was realativly easy. As far as I'm concerned the hardest part was cleaning the base and sealing the pan (not something anyone wants to have re-do). I used a sealant called "The Right Stuff", it comes in a cheese whizz type can. I let it sit for a while before I added any fluid or started it up. And just as a precaution I added some LUCAS Stop Leak. I have since driven from Houston, TX to border of Guatemala and Mexico (easily 1,600+ miles) and have not had any problems nor any leaks.

 

Thanks for the update

 

Also, for anyone interested I found a website with performance parts for the A340H. http://www.importperformancetrans.com/toyotaauto.shtml