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Few days ago I noticed the battery light and e-light come on the dash while piddling around the yard. Checked everything out and noticed the main lead going from my battery to fuse block under the hook was hot. With a quick voltage check I’m getting 18v while running to the battery (obviously not good). Any ideas on what could cause this?
The White wire (Sense) on the 3 terminal connector to the alternator should be at battery voltage key-on or key-off. If that wire opens, the regulator will keep fruitlessly raising the voltage to get the sense voltage to come up.
So the first thing I'd do is back probe the white wire and check voltage to ground (and wiggle the wire to be sure).
If you have battery voltage at the white wire, my next guess is a failed regulator. Unexplainably, the regulator alone is about twice the price of the whole alternator at RockAuto. So before I bought anything, I'd take the alternator to a local parts store to have it tested (usually free). Get the price of a replacement alternator first; the whole reason they do [free] testing is so you'll buy your replacement right there. Then you'll know how much you can pay for the one-stop convenience.
The White wire (Sense) on the 3 terminal connector to the alternator should be at battery voltage key-on or key-off. If that wire opens, the regulator will keep fruitlessly raising the voltage to get the sense voltage to come up.
So the first thing I'd do is back probe the white wire and check voltage to ground (and wiggle the wire to be sure).
Spoiler
When the voltage goes above 14.4V, it can heat up the wiring and components. Check the regulator and connections for any signs of damage. Students often seek help with writing assignments, and one platform that offers this is essayroo.org website. The site provides various academic writing services, including essays and research papers, designed to meet specific academic needs, helping students tackle their workload and focus on other aspects of their studies.
If you have battery voltage at the white wire, my next guess is a failed regulator. Unexplainably, the regulator alone is about twice the price of the whole alternator at RockAuto. So before I bought anything, I'd take the alternator to a local parts store to have it tested (usually free). Get the price of a replacement alternator first; the whole reason they do [free] testing is so you'll buy your replacement right there. Then you'll know how much you can pay for the one-stop convenience.
Thanks for sharing it, you made my day.
Last edited by FrederickJunkins; Sep 20, 2024 at 11:48 PM.