Katoner

So i replaced a leaky radiator on my 22re. All was doing fine and after filling her back up i let her idle with the radiator cap off to burp. All of a sudden coolant splashed everywhere from the radiator cap opening and i figured no big deal its a bit too full. Put cap back on and drove, but now it overheats quickly, water pump seems good since coolant spashes when i open. Nothing in oil all is clean. Could thermostat fail at the exact moment i replace my radiator? Unlikely right? What else to check? Can overflill cause overheat?
Maybe an air bubble causing thermostat to not open? How to burb properly please? Thanks!

Katoner

Ok so i tried burping it again, opened radiator cap and cranked up the cabin heater, and needle was steady in the middle (plus my surging idle stopped). I figured nice, it was air. I wait a bit, put radiator cap back on, get in the cabin and almost instantly the needle goes back up to hot (almost to the red). Im really confused

Katoner

Found "that one" thread about burping with front up, looks like my issue was air in system. Yes, im dumb

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

On my 22R series engines i put a flushing Tee in the heater hose.

Fill the coolant with the cap off pushes all the air out .

When the coolant rises to the level of the tee put the cap on done.

No more air pocket problems

Katoner

Well i cant figure this out still!
the 22re was still overheating and surging idle. Went today parked uphill reburp it for about 10mn, i see bubbles, top off, overflow tank is normal, i drive 30mn all is well temp is normal etc.
Park and work on other stuff for some hours (did all my pitman and idle arm etc), restart car after is got cold and it idle at 2000 while warming up, all good. after it gets to temp it starts surging again at idle, then needle gets to close to red, I park and see my over tank full and overflowing dumping coolant on the ground.
Still air in here or what?? This all started happening after i install new radiator ( )
what gives? If my headgasket blew when my radiator went bad and it first over heat (never seen it in the red) why would it drive fine for 10 miles earlier after i burped it??
Thanks

identity

Sounds like how my 3VZE was acting during its first 30-45 minutes running after rebuilding. I had an awful time working out all of the air pockets and got just a little bit freaked out. Surging idle, steaming/splashing out the radiator neck(spill-free funnels are totally worth the cost!), SERIOUS burps(some more like bangs/knocks inside the radiator), but finally it settled.
The 3VZE has a coolant bleeder on the engine block, probably your engine does as well. Did you loosen that while doing the bleed? You might have had air within the block that just took some time to work upwards.
Sure seems like air in the system, given the new radiator and that you weren't having the problem before.

It's been several days and for all I know you've already resolved this, but I'd be interested to know what you found.

Katoner

Well im getting bubble/coolant splashing out of radiator in sink with reving engine.. and with my coolant being fiercely pushed into my overflow tank, im quite sure my headgasket went. Maybe the slight overheating when radiator blew, or maybe it was already blown by PO and he added something to the water or oil for a quick sale.. and im the dumass who bought it (for $600, doesnt hurt too bad i guess).

anyway, im getting ready to do my first HG job (done timing belt on a VW before, and some dirtbike engine work)... Im planning on getting a cheap gasket set but will use a dealership toyota HG.. and replacing whatever looks bad (guides, etc). Also after inspection of head I'll decide if it goes back on as is, gets machined, or maybe a new head from ebay i see them for cheap (anyone has experience with those?), Like 250 with camshaft and all!!

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