Oil weights...
#1
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Oil weights...
Alright, so I still have this annoying leak where I have to top up the oil every 2 fill ups and it's leaking from somewhere...looks to be the oil pan but possibly timing cover. I'm still getting 500-550km a tank and compression is good. The truck has been running with 10W30 its whole life but I want to see if using a thicker oil in the case would make a difference...just to slow the leak down as a temporary quickfix. What is the next weight up that wouldn't shock the engine? 15W40? What else is there? THanks
#2
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In Canada huh, I wouldn't do it myself. Too thick to circulate good when cold. Most of your engine wear comes during cold startups. It does get cold in Canada doesn't? Why not just replace the leaky gasket? I'd be running 0W30 in cold areas.
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I know, I know..fix the leak. I won't be doing that anytime soon because I'm getting another car/truck. I also might be parking the thing in a few months so I want to spend the least amount of money in a short time...basically nothing; plus, I've been driving it like this for almost three years not a problem...although it's only been 15000kms....oh ya, its not THAT cold here now...at least where I am, 20*celsius..or 70ish*F and warming. Maybe in Nunavut...up north eh. Never really had a problem with cold starts...even sitting for two weeks in -30C weather. Always fired up. Though you are right...it's tough on the engine. So maybe I'll try some 10W40 first and see how that goes. Thanks for the input.
Last edited by BluYot; 05-23-2008 at 06:46 PM.
#7
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On topic but a tagent, what are the negative effects of straight 30w HD? Ive got a leaky rear main that will get fixed, I just don't know when. Trucks burning oil as well, though I don't know how much do to the rear main. Is 30w to thick? I on the other hand live in a climate where it gets hot (99* last week)
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#8
Clean the block, and then see where the oil is coming from. I'm betting its the front seal, which is an easy fix. It'll probably take an afternoon.
How are you only getting 18mpg if you are going 550km/ tank??? I fill up completely on 55L.
How are you only getting 18mpg if you are going 550km/ tank??? I fill up completely on 55L.
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#10
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running straight 30 wt is gunna be the same as running 5w-30, 10w-30, etc (for the summer anyway). its only going to be the 'w' viscosity at low temps...the difference will be almost nothing at operating temp.
ps. I also vote for fixing the leak. if you're just gunna park it then why bother trying to figure out how to stop the leak? i'm assuming it only leaks while running.
ps. I also vote for fixing the leak. if you're just gunna park it then why bother trying to figure out how to stop the leak? i'm assuming it only leaks while running.
#11
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No way would I run straight 30 wt, its much to thick to circulate good below operating temps. Yes, it will be the same at normal operating temps as 5W30 but its the time it takes to get up to normal operating temps that you are going without good flow of oil to your engine. Your oil takes longer to warm up than the coolant does. My t-stat opens way before my oil gets up to operating temps, yes I have gauges for both water and oil temps.
Save the 30 wt for the lawn mower.
Save the 30 wt for the lawn mower.
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So now, IF/WHEN I fix this leak and it's the front main, is it labour intensive? I am mechanically inclined and follow directions but is there a lot involved? I'll check out the FSM and see as well. Is this costly?
Oh ya I recalculated my avg mpg's...I fumbled the calc. somewhere down the line last time; anyways, I'm getting anywhere from 22-25 mpg. Guess that's not too shabby, although I just spent $78cdn to fill up the other day. Ouch.
Oh ya I recalculated my avg mpg's...I fumbled the calc. somewhere down the line last time; anyways, I'm getting anywhere from 22-25 mpg. Guess that's not too shabby, although I just spent $78cdn to fill up the other day. Ouch.
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