86 toyota go to harbor frieght tools and get a impact socket set.. metric.. so you dont have to worry about breaking a socket.. make sure you get 6 point.. dont screw around with 12point socket you will round out the bolt and then you will wind up spending about 35 bucks at sears for a good set of bolt head extractor set..

 

well whats your status?

 

Picked up the truck on Thursday from a local shop that offers free estimates. After the $500 estimate from the dealership to pull the oil pan I was curious to see what this place had to say. They told me it's leaking where the timing cover and oil pan meet. I didn't get a final estimate but they did say it was 14.7 hours of labor and that alone would cost $1200.

So as it stands right now I'm gonna take it over to the car wash and give it a good bath then see if I can locate the leak. With the help of a few friends here on YotaTech I'm confident I can get this job done, actually looking forward to it. Only issues right now are time and money... and oh yeah- 37 week pregnant wife! In the meantime, I'm gonna clean it up, look for the leak and make sure it has oil in it. It's not gonna get driven much over the several months with the way I have to travel for my job. When I do get home I'll make sure and take it for a spin. Hopefully later this spring/summer I'll be able to dig in. When I do I'll make sure I post it on here.

Thank you to everyone that offered up their advice... I'll keep you posted!

 

if you have front main leak i would replace rear main seal and oil pan gasket 2

 

i second that..

 

Just a thought: My junk has an Oil Pressure sending unit just above the starter. The OP unit is gold in color, and screws into the block. There is basically no clearance between the starter and the sending unit, and over time the starter rubs a hole in the thinner skinned sending unit. Due to the location, and the lack of visibility, this is often mis-diagnosed as a leaking oil pan seal. Pic below, I apologize for the crappy quality.

 

Take my advice 86, if you tackle the tc, cover, seal, go ahead and do the headgasket while your in there. Only about 15 more bolts. I didn't, tried to save a dime, wound up spending a dollar. After timing chain and all that jazz, 5000 miles later, hg blew. Had to do it all over again. The HG was $46 dollars from the stealer, the bolts (which later I hear didn't have to be replaced on the 22re) where $7 each. 176,xxx miles when blew, never hot.

 

good advice///

 

ditto

 

I dis agree...

That was your experience and I'm sad you had to go through it...

But a HG is like a rear main seal when you do a clutch job... You do it b/c you're there.

Who's to say he won't need head work? He's pulling off a head he knows how it runs. No point and pulling a head to do a head gasket w/o taking the head to a machine shop and having it fluxed, checked for warpage and guides put in.

We know about your bad experience (not being a smart ass, so don't take it that way) and you want him to pull the head when all he's after is a seal?

Not a good idea IMO. Unless he's ready to take it to a machine shop and have it reworked.









Apart from that.

Fail on the Chiltons AND the Haynes! FSM!!! And it's FREE! You CANNOT find a better manual then the one Toyota gave to the techs to start with, sorry!

But if you must, Chiltons has a hell of a better rep that Haynes,,, ANY DAY!

And x2, keep that gut AWAY from your truck that suggested replacing the seal from the inside!


I just wanted to say I think your oil problem is the rear half moon... Don't know if you've got it fixed by now or what...

And even the dealer would tell you that the problem is x and charge you for x b/c they work on commission. So a tech could have seen the bad or missing half moon and you paid to have no work, or work you didn't need to your truck.