norcalsvx

i went wheeling yeasterday and as i was driving back, the oil pressure gauge went to 0, pulled over checked the oil (pleanty in there) started it back up and it read normal, started driving and it went back to 0. I drove 20 miles home (it did'nt overheat just drove like normal) anytime it was in idleing the gauge read normal but when i hit the gas it goes to 0, any idea's-
1994 toy 22re w/ LCE oil pump- thanks

dcg9381

Check the wire at the sender (passenger side of the block). That's where I'd start.

I've gone to a more accurate aftermarket electric gauge.. The OEM gauge is about worthless.

norcalsvx

yea i'm going with a autometer but i need to drive it down to the shop, the wire was hooked up but i think the sender might be bad??

dcg9381

Sensors are pretty simple (and tough) - one good way to test it would be to run it through a small light bulb with the ignition in the ON position - basically you're running it through a resistor so you don't short it out.. This tests the gauge.
To test the sender, put an ohm meter on it. There appear to be two types - one the standard resistance/ pressure curve.. The other is pulsed... Both are oil pressure "senders" - not the switch.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

Any sources for a good aftermarket oil pressure sender?

Yota Tony

Just get a sender from NAPA they tend to be decent.

I'd replace the sender and see if that fixes it.
If your oil pump was gone, you'd know by now.

norcalsvx

yea i thought that if i really had a oil pump problem the truck would'nt have made it home- thanks for the tips guys

Mark in MD

Mine went to zero on my 1995 3.0 as well. It was obviously the sensor. Since I check my oil every fill up, I wasn't too worried about it. After about six months, it started working again, and has been working ever since. Like magic!

norcalsvx

i'm puttting in some mech ones today

PabloA

Ahh,
I think I'll try this, my 22re oil gauge read no pressure so I bought a new sensor, but the problem remains. The truck runs fine.
So just run a testing light from the end of the plug with the ignition on, I should get light if the gauge is working, right?
Ill give it a try.

genevolpe

I am having the same problem. I found one problem that you may want to look at. I diassembled my dash, took twenty minutes to get to the gage. It somehow had jumped out of the little white plastic piece where the pin from the bimetallic element is moved from. I thought this would fix mine but did not. I tested the the gage by grounding the wire after taking it off of the sensor and it pegged out the gage. All the gage is is a bimetallic piece of metal that bends when voltage is attached and it get warm, like a thermostat would. I then figured it was the sending unit so I replaced it but still it does not work. I ohmed out the wire from the sending unit to the gage and I do not have a short or open. I took a reading from the sending unit out to the positive lead on the battery and it shows voltage. Can anyone tell me the resistance reading at 0 pressure (engine off) and resistance or voltage reading to the gage at engine idle? I pulled the sensor right after the engine had shut off and there was plenty of oil there so it is not a plugged hole. I have driven my 97 truck for over 3000 miles since then so I must have some oil pressure. Any idea other than convert to non-stock items? I have over 191,000 miles and everything has worked very good up until now.