Oil leak
01-07-2013, 01:19 PM
#22
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Im sure that would be a great help to others trying the oring first.And if no one has pulled a distributer before its alot easier to bring the engine up to top dead center by aligning the notch in the crankshaft pulley with the 0 mark on the timing cover before you pull the distributer.then take the dist cap off and mark or score a line on the housing were the center of the rotor is.so when you reinstall you know it is facing #1 on the cap.you can even mark or score each side of the distributer hold down bolt too before you loosen it so you wont even have to get the timing light out.Even though i would still check the timing to be sure after its all done.
Last edited by timothy47129; 01-07-2013 at 01:23 PM.
01-07-2013, 01:30 PM
#23
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I have a very simular leak to yours just on the other side of the engine. I too thought it was the oil pan, but I can tell its not. Its not coming from the valve cover either. My leak is not that bad as I have yet to see a single drop of oil on the ground. However, this weekend I was trying to clean everything up to get a better idea of where the leak was coming from and apparently is sprayed to much cleaning solution now because my belts sound like I have a supercharger. Problem is I dont have one. Hopefully this little noise will go away.
01-21-2013, 02:39 PM
#24
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Oh and don't forget the lil nub that sticks out of the front timing cover at the top these are known to crack on each side of the nub it the bolt trough the head into the timing cover was over tightened during pulling a head or pulling the timing cover.i found mine cracked so I ground it out with a dremel tool and jb welded it as others have done With theirs and so far it's held up fine no oil leaks.you would be surprised how much oil can leak out of there had oil from the front of the block all the way to the back a few months after degreasing it.a little inspection mirror makes it easy to see if its cracked pretty hard to see without one .it also helps to spray the area down with brake cleaner since the recessed area is hard to get at with degreaser
04-03-2013, 01:41 PM
#25
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Checking back in
Well.... It still leaks.
After replacing the disty o-ring, and FIPG'ing the front half moon, I don't think I touched the leak source.
For the sake of keeping the thread going, and maybe showing someone else a faster path than my current one, I'll post back after the next step.
What's the next step?
I think I'll pull the engine and put it on the stand. Re-do the oil pan (again) and just see what I can see.
At this point, all help is needed and greatly appreciated.
Edit- I see the pics above. Very helpful.
After replacing the disty o-ring, and FIPG'ing the front half moon, I don't think I touched the leak source.
For the sake of keeping the thread going, and maybe showing someone else a faster path than my current one, I'll post back after the next step.
What's the next step?
I think I'll pull the engine and put it on the stand. Re-do the oil pan (again) and just see what I can see.
At this point, all help is needed and greatly appreciated.
Edit- I see the pics above. Very helpful.
Last edited by long-haul; 04-03-2013 at 01:59 PM.
04-03-2013, 04:13 PM
#26
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My 22re Front Seal SpookIE Story
A while back I took a round trip from NorCali to Oklahoma and I noticed that I had a leak that I could not figure out were the hell it was coming from , the runner did not leak but I had oil all over the timing cover and alternator. The only thing that had me thinking that it could be the front seal because it had reached the alternator. With the crank pulley spinning and the fan blowing it had created a mess. So I went ahead and replaced the front seal from cheapozone and it did not fix it but made it worse 
so I ended up buying one from the stealership. I replaced it and I could still tell that it leaked a little so I ended swaping my crank pulley with my buddies to see what the hell was going on as I thought it could possibly be the pulley as I had replaced the seal twice by now and what do you know the dam pulley for some strange reason would not keep a tight seal. Till this day 60K miles later everything still looks pretty with mud , sand , rust, but no oil mess 
Man I lOVE my YOTA It never lets me down.
Create a deflector, a shield of some sort around the alternator and call it a done deal if anything and keep on driving and let your kids-kids take care of it
so I ended up buying one from the stealership. I replaced it and I could still tell that it leaked a little so I ended swaping my crank pulley with my buddies to see what the hell was going on as I thought it could possibly be the pulley as I had replaced the seal twice by now and what do you know the dam pulley for some strange reason would not keep a tight seal. Till this day 60K miles later everything still looks pretty with mud , sand , rust, but no oil mess Man I lOVE my YOTA It never lets me down. Create a deflector, a shield of some sort around the alternator and call it a done deal if anything and keep on driving and let your kids-kids take care of it
04-03-2013, 05:09 PM
#27
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i had a leak and couldnt find wat it was had filled my oil before a trip and when i got where i was goin i was low i seen my dip stick was loose so i kinda tucked it up by a bolt havnt leaked any oil since then
08-17-2013, 12:25 PM
#28
Registered User
No more leaks
Just in case anybody sees this thread's pics and wonders what caused that particular leak pattern, here you go.
My front crank seal leaked. So did the power steering pump and the power steering gearbox.
The job was beyond my skills and schedule, so a local mechanic did the repairs. While replacing the front seal, he saw the pulley/harmonic balancer was rust-pitted. The mechanic suggested those pits may have caused the seal to leak, as the pulley helps keep the seal snugged in.
The mechanic installed a NAPA steering gearbox and PS pump. The parts are not OEM but they are lifetime guaranteed. I provided the OEM front crank seal.
Lessons Learned:
This project drug on for years too long. Even though leaks make me crazy, I never had these leaks fixed (or fixed them myself) because of the price, skills and time required. If I would have had the time, I should have done this myself. BUT, with a wife, kids, job, etc-- I should have bitten the bullet and brought in the experts a long time ago. The total bill was $1,400. That money would buy a lot of oil, and I could have sold the truck (something I thought a lot about) to start another Toyota. In the end, I decided Iliked my truck. I wanted to keep moving forward with my truck. It took a $1400 project for me to learn that.
Shame on me for not replacing the harmonic balancer when I put this engine in, about 5 years ago. I did buy an LCE harmonic balancer when I put in the engine, but I bought the under drive version and I just returned it instead of exchanging it for the right part. In hindsight, I wish I would have stuck with it and done this right, 5 years ago.
There are a lot of examples with this truck where a bit more patience on my part would have yielded a much better repair. Normally, I end up having to go back and re-repair what I hurried through the first time. Hopefully, this thread will help someone else and save them from making that mistake.
My front crank seal leaked. So did the power steering pump and the power steering gearbox.
The job was beyond my skills and schedule, so a local mechanic did the repairs. While replacing the front seal, he saw the pulley/harmonic balancer was rust-pitted. The mechanic suggested those pits may have caused the seal to leak, as the pulley helps keep the seal snugged in.
The mechanic installed a NAPA steering gearbox and PS pump. The parts are not OEM but they are lifetime guaranteed. I provided the OEM front crank seal.
Lessons Learned:
This project drug on for years too long. Even though leaks make me crazy, I never had these leaks fixed (or fixed them myself) because of the price, skills and time required. If I would have had the time, I should have done this myself. BUT, with a wife, kids, job, etc-- I should have bitten the bullet and brought in the experts a long time ago. The total bill was $1,400. That money would buy a lot of oil, and I could have sold the truck (something I thought a lot about) to start another Toyota. In the end, I decided Iliked my truck. I wanted to keep moving forward with my truck. It took a $1400 project for me to learn that.
Shame on me for not replacing the harmonic balancer when I put this engine in, about 5 years ago. I did buy an LCE harmonic balancer when I put in the engine, but I bought the under drive version and I just returned it instead of exchanging it for the right part. In hindsight, I wish I would have stuck with it and done this right, 5 years ago.
There are a lot of examples with this truck where a bit more patience on my part would have yielded a much better repair. Normally, I end up having to go back and re-repair what I hurried through the first time. Hopefully, this thread will help someone else and save them from making that mistake.
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