http://www.classictruckshop.com/club...h/foglites.htm

I would use this wiring diagram, its alot more easy to read. I would use 2 relays for 4 lights unless its low watt bulbs. And you dont need the indicator, it should be in that switch. Since i see 3 prongs. Power in, power out and ground?

Put male/female plugs on your wiring by the lights so you can unplug when you decide to move or take off lights. If you decide to run 2 relays i can help you with that.

 

Get a 5 wire flat extension from walmart

 

Thanks for all the help guys... Ugh, the decision on which setup to go with is hard, but eventually I'll have to make it. Another couple questions I've been having though are, does the switch need to have a fuse between it and the battery and how do I setup the switch to only get power when the key is on?

 

Turn ur key on and find a empty fuse slot that works with s test loght, then sfter several are found remember their location snd turn ur key off and retest those locations

 

You can never have enough fuses.

To get power to the switch i would tap off the cig lighter. Its pre-fused. And it only has power when the truck is on. Without that power from the switch the lights wont work so it wont drain your battery if you forget to turn them off.

(Not that you wouldnt see bright fogs or anything)

 

Never thought about tapping into the cig lighter wiring... Gonna have to do that!

 

Fuse should go between battery and .......RELAY. Relay get's constant hot power to it... The switch, which runs on 'switched' power like the lighter or such that was mentioned... it will complete the circuit in the "RELAY" when flipped. If there's any surge, you would want the constant supply power from the battery to the relay to be interrupted.... preventing Chassis electrical or PHYSICAL hardware like 'lights' to be damaged/AND preventing surge back to the battery.

You cannot convert watts to amps, since watts are power and amps are coulombs per second (like converting gallons to miles). HOWEVER, if you have at least least two of the following three: amps, volts and watts then the missing one can be calculated. Since watts are amps multiplied by volts, there is a simple relationship between them.

However, In some engineering disciplines the volts are more or less fixed, for example in house wiring, automotive wiring, or telephone wiring. In these limited fields technicians often have charts that relate amps to watts and this has caused some confusion. What these charts should be titled is "conversion of amps to watts at a fixed voltage of 110 volts" or "conversion of watts to amps at 13.8 volts," etc.

*Converting Watts to Amps

The conversion of Watts to Amps at fixed voltage is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts

For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

************************************************** **

So, unless I've got this TOTALLY wrong all this time, hahahaha...

My lights are a combined 300W..... 12V power supply(14.5V while running)

300W/12V = 25 Amps

300W/14.5V = 20.689655 Amps

* So I think I'm ok with a 30A fuse breaker. MANY wiring kits come with the relay and lights and fuses and looming... the lot. But I opted to upgrade to 10AWG wire from the 14AWG supplied in the Relay I bought at the electronics store. This meant I had to lose the bottom "Plug in Portion" and use female spade connectors. (like you saw in the pic).... I WOULD NOT use high power/draw lights without a relay. You can, and many do... I just think it's a safe 'hub', ... and was told to do so by many electronics guru's like Roger(4crawler) and pretty decent electronics lovers like Irab and RBX(PROPS! ), members on here who have a really good grasp of 'wiring'. (as I'm sure Tyler and Flea and others have down, also very well ) Even headlights have a relay, right?

 

I havr been graced by chef!!! Ha ha but i have a ok understanding but i run everything by my dad who went to college for tv repair so i learn from him and my mistakes lol

 

Oh HECK no, lol.... I'm just sharing what I've learned on various sites/remember from high school, etc. I've always been decent with electronics... but funny thing is.... I'M ALWAYS initially intimidated by them.

Far as making mistakes, ..YEP! lol... I know that one well.. But I TRY to do my research, ya know? And I run MY projects by Irab(Ian) and RBX and Brandon(XXXtreme) and definitely Roger(4crawler), all the time! lol. IT'S GOOD to have a second set of eyes/neuron's firing over any given project.... Especially one that could involve, as a consequence of improper installation, "Costly Damage", or worse, 'FIRE'!!! hahaha.

Just really helps to know the basic values before stepping into the application stuff, am I right?

Like I said, done quite a few things in the electronic realm on this thing... but I STILL, EVERY TIME, get a lil nervous. But I notice, as I do more, I feel less and less nervous...THANK GOODNESS! lol.... (Shaking with a soldering iron is not really a good thing! lol) jk, lol.

Yep, I'm a novice compared to those guys! I'm just sharing, for the most part, what they taught me.

 

I to have been graced by the great chef. Thanks B.T.W.

I took a few electrical classes in college and i used to work on construction equipment.

I dont "have" electrical down, i just understand the basics and have done lots of wiring on my rigs. I believe you should run relays on everything electrical added to a vehicle except CB's. Im always down to help someone who needs help wiring.

I also have learned lots of electrical stuff online. Other forums i used to get on and reading wiring problems others have had. (Thanks FCM on hondatech.)

Your cheapest most usefull item in electrical work is a multimeter. Even if you use it once its worth the $5 at harbor
freight.

Also i have a rocker switch like the one show on the first page, second one down on website, that i would pretty much give you if you need. Fits in the 1989-1995 toyota switch holes. (13/16x1 3/16) Pulled from a coach that i worked on.

 

Actually the cheapest, most useful item in electrical work is electrical tape. But the meter is right up there too

 

OHhhhhhhhhh boy.... no, no, no! hahaha. JK, but honestly, I am a total novice... Just sharing what "Irab/Ian and RBX and 4Crawler and more" have shared with me. When they did, A LOT started coming back to me... And I remembered one thing... "When dealing with electrical... there is NO SUCH THING as 'double checking too much', PERIOD!".... So I mean, I have the power cut off at the moment I do the work/repairs/mods.... I just have to QUADRUPLE CHECK everything is where it should be and VOILA, ... it's fine. EVEN THEN, if i fuse it right, which ALL THESE THINGS should be 'breaker endowed' between battery and 6" preferably to whatever relay you're feeding.. then I should be 'safe' "....

Taking 'shortcuts' or 'using half the size wire needed cuz 'i have some' type stuff.. Yeah, that's where people get what they ask for, ya know?

That's why I asked Ian and RBX and Xxxtreme and Roger so many things... Cuz i wanted to KNOW that I got confirmation from more than one person/as well as books/ and because I wanted to KNOW why to use '?AWG' for '?Watts pull', etc. Guys who are wiring things up that COULD EVEN REMOTELY POSSIBLY melt down things in there.... Like no relay and 4- 55W bulbs? NO sympathy thereafter. Just TOO MUCH INFO out there at the fingertips. I've seen videos of guys that installed lights and I KNOW those things blew up thereafter! lol. I mean, it was like they TRIED to make the wiring as 'spaghetti soup' as possible!!!! lol.

PS> Electrical tape may well be high on the list...BUT, .... IMHO, Solder and heat Shrink are MUST HAVE for anything that is not emergency repair.

PSS> looking forward to updates, OP

 

 

I'm still trying to decide which lights to buy, I have decided though that the bumper mounted KC's aren't gonna happen... I'm looking at a set of Procomp lights like the ones below... I think the ones in the pic are procomp 6x9's, but I'm not sure... That's the only thing keeping me from ordering them right now. They're fairly cheap ($40 a piece) and I'm not a desert night racer so these will do just fine (I'm pretty sure).

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-...9&t_pn=EXP9002

 

HAHAHAHAHA..... "HID fried your spammich!" CLASSIC!

Hey Nick.... I'm sure those Procomp rectangle lights are fine, man... With covers and everything, right?

Maybe you'll find someone selling some on CL or something. I am still looking on the 'what to mount to the Con-Ferr' factor as well... BTW... they look like 4x6's... but I could be wrong. The headlights measurements are 6x7".... they don't look AS big, let alone bigger....

My lights I posted above on here are 8" Dick Cepeks ...... I don't think ProComp makes a 6x9... but I could, once again, be wrong! hahaha.

DAYUMMMMMM that 4Runner is sick! I can't wait to get my sliders/bumpers and con-ferr on!!!

 

Turns out Procomp makes two sizes... 6x9 and 5x7. These look about 5x7 so that's probably what I'm gonna order! I think I'm gonna order them from Summit Racing since I haven't heard the best about 4wheelparts. Summit sells 'em for $36, which isn't bad!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EXP-9101/

Oh, and another pic of that 4Runner

 

Got some goodies for my birthday/Christmas! Dick Cepek SS Lightbar, four Pro Comp 5x7 lights , and two Explorer Competition Products (I think it's just old Pro-Comp) install/wiring kits. I'm kind of scrapping the idea of the deck lamp switch since I want to be able to run 2 lights at a time and not HAVE to use all 4. Looking forward to the install soon!

 

Install faster, I want to see pics!

 

I will probably have it done by the end of Saturday! I have to do some measurements to see how much of the bar I have to trim....

From the looks of it, this light bar was packaged in '85 since it doesn't have measurements for ANYTHING newer than '85... Usually this isn't a problem because 1979-1988 pickups all had the same width (raingutter to raingutter), BUT I'm not sure if there is a difference on the 4Runner so just to be sure I'm gonna install the towers tomorrow and take measurements and double check how much to take off.

I'm eager to get this installed so I'm gonna do my best to get it installed ASAP!

 

should be the same size. the 4runner was basically built of the trucks frame and body