number 2 cyl low compression.
04-21-2010, 06:42 PM
#1
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number 2 cyl low compression.
hi everyone, names murphy. just bought a 89 4runner 4x4 3.0 for wheeling. i scratched up my 09 tacoma real bad and the wife let me buy a toy.
anyways, i got it and it runs ok, gas milage is 8mpg and compression on #2 is low, so says the emission shop i took it too. blew a 887 when 167ppm is passing-
. what are the options worth taking?
i old 86 up in oregon has the 22re so should i ditch the 3.0? get the new 2.7,3.4,chevy 350, or rebuild?
money is tight as i am deploying to Saudi for awhile while the wife goes back to oregon(stationed on Barksdale AFB shreveport LA)
what is the cost of a 22re-3.4? can they bolt up to the tranny or do i also need a tranny?
im on my gov computer so i cant put pics up but i will. also i ll start a build thread when i get more of my issues resolved.
thanks
A1C Murphy
MurphyZ on tacomaworld.com
anyways, i got it and it runs ok, gas milage is 8mpg and compression on #2 is low, so says the emission shop i took it too. blew a 887 when 167ppm is passing-
. what are the options worth taking?i old 86 up in oregon has the 22re so should i ditch the 3.0? get the new 2.7,3.4,chevy 350, or rebuild?
money is tight as i am deploying to Saudi for awhile while the wife goes back to oregon(stationed on Barksdale AFB shreveport LA)
what is the cost of a 22re-3.4? can they bolt up to the tranny or do i also need a tranny?
im on my gov computer so i cant put pics up but i will. also i ll start a build thread when i get more of my issues resolved.
thanks
A1C Murphy
MurphyZ on tacomaworld.com
04-22-2010, 06:01 AM
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what is a good price for a 3.4?
does it bolt right up to the tranny and xfer case?
i see some minor stuff needs to be changed like the exhaust stuff and i got a 2 in boddy lift so the engine will fit.
junk yard sites show anywhere from 2k-250 bucks for a running not tested motor.
does it bolt right up to the tranny and xfer case?
i see some minor stuff needs to be changed like the exhaust stuff and i got a 2 in boddy lift so the engine will fit.
junk yard sites show anywhere from 2k-250 bucks for a running not tested motor.
04-22-2010, 08:00 AM
#5
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How many miles on the motor? What is the service history?
You were told that the compression on #2 is low, but what are the actual numbers for all of the cylinders? Doing a compression test is pretty cheap and easy, I would do a verification myself just to check the numbers.
If #2 is low, put a teaspoon of oil in that cyclinder, hook up the compression gage, and try it again. If the compression goes up, then it is the rings. If it does not, then it is the valves.
If it is the valves, then the prime culprit would be a need to do a valve clearance adjustment. Pop off the plenum, pull the valve covers, and measure the valve clearance on every valve. Numerous write ups on here for that. If you have a tight valve on #2, get a new shim to get the correct clearance, might fix your low compression problem. Another member had this exact problem after a rebuild and that fixed his low compression issues.
Now, if it is the rings, you might try some of the additives out there to see if you can get the rings to seal better, no experience from my end on that.
As far as motor swaps go, the most common is the Toyota 3.4. You can put a factory supercharger on that motor for even more power, but it is a vastly superior motor to the 3.0 is stock form. The bottom end is almost identical to the 3.0, but it has dual overhead cams, four valves per cyclinder, coil on plug ignition, and a mass airflow based injection system. It fits well in the engine compartment (motor mounts and trans mounts are the exact same) with the exception of height. You would need to do a 2" body lift or put a hood scoop on. The battery has to swap to the drivers side, as the intake is flipped on that motor.
The other common one is the 4.3L Vortec V6, Chevy. Fits in the engine comparment very well, as it is a pushrod motor. But nothing bolts right up, you will need adapters, new oil pans, etc.
The V8 swaps are very tight, you run into clearance problems in a hurry.
Good luck
You were told that the compression on #2 is low, but what are the actual numbers for all of the cylinders? Doing a compression test is pretty cheap and easy, I would do a verification myself just to check the numbers.
If #2 is low, put a teaspoon of oil in that cyclinder, hook up the compression gage, and try it again. If the compression goes up, then it is the rings. If it does not, then it is the valves.
If it is the valves, then the prime culprit would be a need to do a valve clearance adjustment. Pop off the plenum, pull the valve covers, and measure the valve clearance on every valve. Numerous write ups on here for that. If you have a tight valve on #2, get a new shim to get the correct clearance, might fix your low compression problem. Another member had this exact problem after a rebuild and that fixed his low compression issues.
Now, if it is the rings, you might try some of the additives out there to see if you can get the rings to seal better, no experience from my end on that.
As far as motor swaps go, the most common is the Toyota 3.4. You can put a factory supercharger on that motor for even more power, but it is a vastly superior motor to the 3.0 is stock form. The bottom end is almost identical to the 3.0, but it has dual overhead cams, four valves per cyclinder, coil on plug ignition, and a mass airflow based injection system. It fits well in the engine compartment (motor mounts and trans mounts are the exact same) with the exception of height. You would need to do a 2" body lift or put a hood scoop on. The battery has to swap to the drivers side, as the intake is flipped on that motor.
The other common one is the 4.3L Vortec V6, Chevy. Fits in the engine comparment very well, as it is a pushrod motor. But nothing bolts right up, you will need adapters, new oil pans, etc.
The V8 swaps are very tight, you run into clearance problems in a hurry.
Good luck
04-22-2010, 10:23 AM
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i decided from going around to the local shops that i will stay with the 3.0 for now til i can buy the 3.4, ecus, wire harness, tranny, xfer case (as i do not know if the 5speed i have will bolt up.), drive lines etc.
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