'86 4Runner, 4 cyl, 5 speed. Quick run down...when I firts got the truck, it would never reach proper opertaing temp. After a while, I put in a 160* t-stat, and that helped some, but didn't totally cure the problem. About a month ago, the truck wouldn't start. Went out to start it, and right at first it sounded like it wanted to turn over, but then after the first try...it would just sit there and crank and sound like it wasn't even close to starting. Took it to a shop, and they replaced the EFI fuse, messed with the Cold Cranking Sensor (all they did was unplug it and plug it back in), and it started right up and ran fine for about a week. I go out the other day and it's doing the exact same thing. The EFI fuse is fine, and unplugged and plugged back in the Cold Cranking Sensor, but the truck still won't start. I've heard it could be the Cold Cranking Sensor, or the Cold Start Injector. I live in NC, and it's definitely not cold here, but I was thinking maybe the issue with the truck never reaching full operating temp would have some effect on the Cold Cranking Sensor or the Cold Start Injector. I dunno. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

umm... what?
cold cranking sensor? what's that?
can you get a wiring diagram that shows what that is?

and before you do that, put the proper thermostat in. I live in southern california desert area and I would NEVER put a 160 thermostat in.
how can you expect the engine to reach proper temps when you put in a lower rated thermostat.

 

I think he means the cold start injector, and is calling it a cold cranking sensor

 

try jumping the fuel pump?

here read this http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

 

Ok, correction...It was a long time ago that I changed the T-stat...I put in a 180* not a 160*. And yes, I was confused on the proper name of the switch. I am talking about the cold start injector time switch. And I've already tested the fuel pump, and that was working fine. Could that cold start injector switch be causing this?

 

my apologies for not understanding.

if it's warm outside, above around 75-80, the cold start injector doesn't do a thing. the cold start time switch only activates it for a short period of time when the coolant is cold.
So that should not be causing the truck to not start.
maybe try unplugging the EFI fuse for a few minutes to reset the ECU and see if that helps.
if not, you'll need to see if the ECU is throwing any trouble codes.

 

Ok, I'll go try the fuse idea, and if that doesn't work...and the ECU throws a code...won't the light blink a certain amount of times to represent what code it is? Thanks for the help...I'll definitely be back whether the results are good or bad.

 

Oh, and I don't know if this will help...but the truck was running and had been driven earlier in the day...and that afternoon, when I got home from work, I went out to start it, and it was dead. Don't know if this is helpful, I just thought I'd throw it out there and let ya'll know. Thanks again...in the process of testing the fuse idea.

 

pulling the efi fuse should reset any codes stored.
if it starts, you might not get a code, but if it won't you may.
either way you have to jumper the test port connectors to get the codes to flash.

 

Well, I tried the fuse idea. I pulled the fuse out for a while, and went back, plugged the fuse back in, and the truck started right up but only for a couple seconds and then died again, and wouldn't restart. Every time I would pull the EFI fuse and plug it back in, it would start for a couple seconds, and then die again. A bad ECU maybe? I'm going to jump the test port connector tomorrow and see what comes up. I'll do that and report back probably tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again.

 

Ummm, quick question...this is gonna make me sound really stupid, but I don't know the answer, so I don't care how stupid I sound. When I go to jump the test port connector to find out the codes, where am I going to look to find this connector? I've tried searching everywhere, and I haven't found anything on it. I'm assuming the connector will be on the inner fender well or the firewall somewhere. And are there any certain prongs that I'm going to jump to get the codes to flash? I basically don't know how to do it, and if anyone could walk me through, that would be freakin awesome. Thanks!

 

http://troublecodes.net/Toyota/
has some sketches of the possible connectors and what to jumper.

 

the diagnostic connector thing is a little plastic covered thing that will be attached to the fuse box on your passengers side inner fender. put a paperclip/wire in terminals te1, and e1, and turn the ignition key to on.

you read the codes by counting the flashes of the check engine light

if there aren't any codes it will just blink on and off continously

 

Thank you! I'm getting ready to get off work in a little bit and I'm going straight home to do this. So, based on, my brother's truck not running, if there aren't any codes then my ECU is bad?

 

not necessarily. let's see if you get any codes first though.

 

Ok, i just came back from outside trying to find that port connector...and I couldn't. I don't know if I'm looking in the wrong place, if I'm blind, stupid, all the above?! I'm gonna go try again, but if any can give me more directions...that would be great! Thanks.

 

yours should be the connector circled in light blue:


there's a bit of a description here:
http://4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/...CheckConnector

 

light blue? uh...we're looking for the diagnostic connector here...

its a little plastic box that says diagnostic on the top cover. I'll post a picture later if i get a chance.

 

MMA_Alex... I know what you're talking about.
This is what you're talking about, though it could be in slightly different locations, but looks the same:
(the grey connector with the flip-open lid. some trucks it's black)

I want to point out this pic is taken looking over the passenger fender.
but it is used on ~87 and up

the pic I put is 84-86 since he has an 86.

 

Thanks for the picture...that was it. Ran the test, and the light flashed one time every 4.5 seconds. According to this read up I've got,

Code 1: Normal Condition

What does Normal Condition mean? I'll try looking it up somewhere, but if ya know...that would be even better. Thanks for everyone's help so far.