Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

I'm interested to hear about this alternator thing.

xxxtreme22r

he doesn't need block off ports on that thing. It's integrated into the flange. I do agree that that flange needs to be resurfaced flat however. Especially if he wants to use an OEM gasket, otherwise use the thorley one that was designed for that header.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

My advice still stands on the header in question. I wouldn't put that crap on my rig if you payed me to do it. And i still think it'll leak due to the condition of the flange. That being said mudpigg your right i just looked at the pic online and yes they do look the same. Sending you doughnuts.
Pigg. 1
mouse. 0

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

http://catalog.remflex.com/TOYOTA_He...t_p/rf7003.htm
This is what I'm running. Love it so far. Best I've tried but time will tell if it holds up.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Naw, I don't mean to be like that. But I've run a very similar setup thats all. For the price the OP stated I'm jealous.

xxxtreme22r

there is absolutely no photos I can find, but I am almost willing to bet that that is a TRD and not a thorley header. Yeah I know they are the same except a cast vs forged flange. But the The thorley also has the O2 sensor port in the extension and not the collector tube. It's definately not the tri-y NWOR one though.

Now question is is that a 2wd or 4wd header. that I believe makes a big difference.

mightymouse

iTrader: (6)

Gotcha, i just know how it is when you put a bunch of work into a motor only to have the pos exhaust leak. Seems like this guy put some time into his motor and would be pretty pissed when he couldn't get a used header to work.

xxxtreme22r

As long as it's the 4wd header and not the 2wd header, it will work. Gonna leave the celica header out, because I am 100% sure that is not a celica header. I am sure a machine shop can shave that flange down and make it flat. Someone was just talking about that somewhere on here, said it cost him like $35 or something to have a machine shop flatten a warped manifold flange.

Wreel

Wow, didn't mean to make an argument out of this .
Looking at the header closer, it does have the markings 542, and 12 91 stamped into the top of the flange. So my guess is that this is an early thorley exhaust?

I do plan on having the flange resurfaced, and definitely looking at getting a remflex gasket to seal it up right. Looks as if I will just need to drill out the two holes for the inner studs.

Reguarding the pear shaped/ round holes... My truck is an 87 with the pear shaped head, but the egr routing is still internal, so I think this header shouldn't mess with the egr system...hopefully.

Not sure if it came out of a 2wd or 4wd truck, I actually didn't know there would have been a difference.

Ill keep the forum updated with info on the alternator with a proper write up once I can.

Thanks!

xxxtreme22r

* DRIVE: 2WD & 4WD
* PRIMARY/COLLECTOR: 1 1/2" - 2 1/4"
* HEADER EXIT: DRIVER


well, looks like the throley header is good for both 2wd and 4wd, I was wrong there. I know LCE's are different between 2wd/4wd.

Part Number: THY-542Y-C
Product Name: CERAMIC COATING, 1981-1984 TRUCK, 20R/ 22R, 4WD, NO HILUX; 1981-1984 20R/ 22R, 2WD, NO 2WD IN 1980; 1984.5-1987 TRUCK/4RUNNER, 20R/ 22R, 2/4WD, FUEL INJECTED; ALL AVAILABLE WITH AIR INJECTION

looking at summit they say NO auto trans though.

peow130

Now that i hath returned.

See the EXHAUST PORTS?!?!? They're pear shaped.

xxxtreme22r

yeah so? it does not matter.

we wern't arguing whether or not they are pear shaped or not. The only thing pear shaped in ANY header on the market is the gasket. The port shape on ANY 20R/22R/22re 81-95 has nothing to do with the port shape of a header.

Like I said look at LCE's list of headers the only thing different between the 20/22r/22re 81-95 is the fact they ship with either a round manifold gasket or a pear shaped gasket. The headers and their flanges are all the same.

Then there is the LCE Pro headers, all have pear shaped header gaskets and they fit all 1981 to 1995 4wd pickups and 4Runners only difference is that the PAIR block off plates are not required as the provisions for them have been removed from the flange.

All it comes down to is whether or not you want to retain the PAIR system or not.

Now I am gonna check the primary tube sizes on the thorley's to verify they are all the same as well.

muddpigg

iTrader: (1)

Before you even have it resurfaced or bore out holes you can pull the manifold and test fit it. If you go with the Remflex I would simply knock the rust off. The DT header has raised places on it. Remflex is good for imperfections in mating surfaces and you can use less torque to boot, I stripped an exhaust boss once. Good time to research exhaust option now. You want them to tuck it in tight and if you plan to wheel you don't want the end run out the rear. but rather exiting infront of the rear spring hanger on drivers side. I got a glass pack for a muffler and my cat is rodded out (for cost reasons right now) It can get loud but I don't mind. I love the sound it makes off lane deviders with the windows down.

Don't sweat the arguments seems to be more as the holidays get closer but these weren't bad the thread is still open.

peow130

Interesting.
I was under the impression that the 86+ Headers have Pear shaped holes.
I suppose if i were making a header, i'd want the thing to flow like a header, lol.
Well, now that that's been said i shouldn't have cut up that header that i put on my jeep >.<

camo31_10.50

my 20R header worked perfectly fine with NOOOOO leaks WHATSOEVER on my '86 22R.

and i could definitely tell some more pep in it's step

xxxtreme22r

maybe the stock manifiolds do, but not aftermarket headers. And I think we all agree most headers on the market are an improvement over the stock header. Especially the TRD/Thorley. LCE and downey's just have a different "powerband" than the Thorley which some people would actually prefer the stock manifold over.

But none of them cause a loss of power, except maybe the pacesetter and obx, but that has nothing to do with the round vs pear exhaust ports. More design issues than fitment issues.

Don't know too much about either of the NWOR's, or Hedmans on these things though.

Looking though some applications it seems as though so it matters 4wd vs 2wd and some it matters Auto vs manual trans.

Haven't figured out why some say 22r vs 22re though unless they are talking pre 86 22r and calling everything after 85 as a 22re including the 22r.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

Any progress on the Jaguar XJ alternator???

Wreel

Hey guys, thought I would update you. So the header most definitely fits. Had to relocated the o2 sensor bung back to the original location, and drill out two new holes for the extra studs that the 22re model has (vs 22r).



Im still working on the Jaguar Alternator mod, sorry its taking so long, but the finances just started coming back in.

Finally put some new wheels on her, tires are being replaced soon.



and set up a mini-dual battery set up (had the batteries laying around). Not sure if is any better or worse than a single large batter, Im just happy that they are sealed gel type, w/o maintance. The extra posts are nice to have too.



Thats it. currently reworking the entire front end (steering box leak), with new shocks, and ball joints. Will keep updated as I go. but hopefully paint is sometime in the near future.

Wreel

So updating the Alt. info for those of you who were interested.

Sorry it has taken so long...rolled the truck about a month and half ago, so just getting it back up on its feet. Body is currently off, waiting for the new one...so an opportune time to check the fitment of the alternator. After a little pushing....

She fits like a charm. It is definitely a tighter squeeze than the original, and i had to bend the adjustment bracket up a hair to get the bolt in, but overall it looks solid, everything has a decent amount of clearance, and the best part of the whole thing, it plugs right in. Same exact connector as the stock alt.

Obviously I haven't been able to test it yet, until i get the new body on. But here are a few pics of the alt installed. I didn't bother doing a write up, since it really is a swap out.

I do plan, and recommend replacing the stock alt-battery wire. I found a set of 4 guage off of amazon for about $25 (which includes 10ft of red, 10 ft of black, and another 8 ft of a seperate black cable) perfect for the big 3 upgrade.

I also went ahead and purchased an inline fuse and fuse holder good for 150amps. (bypassing the stock 80amp fuse under the fuse cover) The new alternator is capable of putting out 140a i believe. about twice as much as the stocker.

Once i get it all back up and running, ill be sure to let you know how everything works.

john4wd

It's been 7 months how about an update :}