The FSM talks about marks on the timing belt for the crank and two cam pulleys. My aftermarket belt has none (the old belt has only one mark).

On other cars I've worked with that had timing chains, it's pretty easy to ensure the right number of links are between gears -- How do I install the belt so the proper number of teeth fall between cam pulleys?

A search here shows some people having to re-do the belt a number of times; I'd like to install once and call it good! :-)

Thanks...

 

are you sure there arnt any marks on the cam gears themselves? if not return the belt and try another company

 

First, set the crank to top dead center on the compression stroke. Then align the marks on the cams to the marks on the cam caps. While convieniet, the marks on the timing belt really isn't necessary. Just make sure to check and double check your work, and make sure that when the bottom marks are lined up, that the cam marks are lined up too.

 

What he said. Marks are on the engine.

I dont' remember there being any marks on the belt, though it's been a while. I'll be able to answer better when the rebuild kit from enginbuilder gets here tomorow.

 

Genuine Toyota belts have marks, aftermarket ones don't and like DeathCougar said they aren't really necessary. After lining up the pulleys the important thing is to get the driver side of the belt as tight as you can. Put the belt on the crank pulley and pull hard to get it onto the correct teeth on the driver side cam pulley. Mine was 1/2 a tooth off and I let the belt go slightly slack to line them up, which was the the wrong thing to do. It ended up 1 tooth out.

 

What they all said.

However make sure the #1 cylinder is at TDC, and while you are at it pull the dist cap and make sure the rotor is pointed at the #1 contact.

Then as they all said, line everything up on the timing marks. If you have the plenum off look under the passenger's side valve cover and make sure both cam lobes arent engaging either valve.

Then put the timing belt on the gear of the crank, and make it TIGHT!! Going to the dirvers side cam gear, then thread the rest holding that tension.

And BE ANAL when you do this! One tooth off and the truck will barely run!

 

I agree with what everybody said. There were marks on my timing belt when I tore the top end of my engine down, but I didn't totally remove the belt (I didn't remove the crank pulley at all.), so when it came time to re-install it, I couldn't see the crank pulley mark on the timing belt because it was hidden under bottom cover. I would add that after you get the belt on with the tensionner installed, turn the crank pulley exactly two revolutions so that you're back at TDC for piston #1, and ensure that your cam pulleys still line up properly. Repeat this a few times just to be sure.

 

Thanks for the advice!

One question, though: How do I ensure that the engine isn't 180* out? The heads have been re-built, and the bottom end has been spun around a number of times since the heads came off.

Thanks again!

 

OK. Everytime you turn the crank shaft to align the timing line on the pulley with the "0" on the bottom timing cover, the #1 piston will be at the top of its stroke. To properly install the timing belt, you start with the crank pulley timing line aligned with the "0" on the bottom timing cover, and both cam pulley lines pointed upwards towards the alignment marks on the upper timing cover. That is TDC compression stroke on #1 piston. At this point, if the timing belt is not installed, it does not matter how many times you turn the crank shaft... every time you stop with the timing line aligned with the "0", you will be at TDC compression on cylinder #1. This only changes after you install the timing belt, where now it takes two revolutions of the crank shaft to get the cam pulley lines to line up again.

So with your timing belt installed, and your camshaft pulley timing lines aligned with the timing marks on the upper timing cover, you are at TDC compression on cylinder #1. One revolution of the crankshaft from here will put you at the top of the stroke on cylinder #1, but that's on the exhaust stroke. A second revolution gets you back to TDC compression on #1. Clear as mud? You're only concerned with being 180* out when it comes to installing your distributer.

Now, if your problem is that you've already installed the front timing cover so that you can't see the cam pulleys, and you want to know if you are at TDC compression on #1 prior to installing your distributer, then you just need a compression gauge (or something similar... you might be able to do it by plugging the #1 spark plug hole with your finger if you can reach it...)

Start with the line on the crank pulley aligned with the "0" on the lower timing cover. Install the compression gauge in the spark plug hole for cylinder #1. Take a socket/ratchet and turn the crank pulley one full revolution by hand sort of quickly (It doesn't have to be too fast, but don't take your time turning it either, the faster you turn it, the easier it will be to see the pressure build up.) Check your compression gauge. If it has built up any pressure at all (probably only around 5psi... you'll barely hear the air escape when you press the bleed valve on the compression gauge), then you are at TDC compression of cylinder #1. If no pressure has built up at all, then you are probably at the top of cylinder #1 exhaust stroke. If you saw no pressure on the first revolution, try a second revolution. You should see pressure the second time. If not, something isn't right with your set up.

Good luck.

 

Thanks once again, everyone, for the assistance; I appreciate it! We just got her buttoned up and she's running again.

But, she's running hot. So I'm going to post a new msg for more help...