Here is another view of getting the 80 Amp fuse out.

All of the other fuses lift up and out. The 80 Amp you have to pry this tab to the firewall and push out the bottom.


Here it is mounted to the Fuse. It mounts behind the wires. I usually have to take a 8mm socket to the screws the first time. They can be TIGHT.

 

I appreciate a well written and documented article like this. But just what gauge wire was it that you installed in place of the original? I understand that you pulled it from an old truck from the wrecking yard but for those of us who don’t have that luxury, what does it look like or what gauge is it?
I have a FSM and it doesn’t have any information on it. At least not in the 1st book that I have (suspected counterfeit).

I had to replace the battery lead to the 80A fuse because the original wire was just too short and it looked like it was hacked on by some kid in a hurry to get his stereo in.
it was like a short length of 10 gauge wire with a 12 gauge attached to complete its length. I assumed it was a hack and replaced it with a length of 8 gauge I had on hand.
I am experiencing the loss of electrical functions after driving a short distance but the engine doesn’t die. I just lose blinkers, cabin fan, etc, etc,.
This is not something I would expect and I’m having trouble understanding why a fuse able link would be necessary to connect to a fuse?!
If you could share the part number and gauge wire that you used it would be so appreciated. I have been chasing down problems with this truck since it blew up on me in March of 2020- yeah, the day I was moving out because I had been laid off so I could afford to pay my bills and keep my credit rating. Ha, thanks to UI/EDD and Toyota, I now live in this truck and can’t get any mechanic to work on it. Seems nobody knows how to do carb work or computer operated cars are much easier to rotate and make money from. Aisian carbs are not as easy as you might think. And parts are not readily available for the 86 pickups either.