Morning gentlemen,

I'm looking for some guidance and a little help on my 93 4runner 3.0 2wd. I just finished rebuilding the top end of my runner( first time doing the job). New heads(rebuilt), timing belt, water pump, thermostat, cap and rotor, plugs,wires, injectors, ect...
Once completed, 4runner started up and sounds great(other than the smell of burning coolant that will wear off), but I have no power? I replaced every hose, distributer, cam, and made sure the sprockets, crank were all top dead center and back to way they were. Now I was told by a friend that I needed to turn the motor twice to see if the marks lined up correctly (which I didn't do). Is there something I'm missing, or that I can do myself to correct this and find out what is wrong? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you...

Best

 

Check ignition timing (follow the FSM procedure). If you are unable to get it "close," you could have installed the distributor 1 tooth off (that produces about a 28° error).

You can just remove the upper timing cover to confirm that the cam sprockets point "up" when the crank is at TDC.

Unless you ended up with a LOT of coolant in your exhaust system, that smell should be gone in minutes. Do you have any white smoke? If you put your hand in the exhaust stream, does it get damp (rather than oily)? Water is a normal combustion product so a little white smoke on cold-startup is normal, but not so much as to wet your hand.

 

Thank you scope103 for the information. I must have installed the distributor one or more teeth off. I timed the motor, and it sounds great and idles at 800rpms, but still no power. I will follow the procedure you mentioned. Hopefully that will work.

 

Hey scope103, one more question. Before I remove the distributor or do any work on it, should I have the sprockets and main crank TDC? How do I know if I reinstalled the distributor in the correctly? Is it trial and error type deal? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

It is never amiss to point out that the ecu will not properly default to base timing, even when jumpered, if the idle RPM is substantially higher than spec, and also if the TPS is not reporting throttle closed.

Often timing adjustment is attempted based on the false assumption that base timing is what is being observed, when it is really not. The result is that the engine does not run as expected after timing adjustment is made.

 

Why do you think you installed it one tooth off? By "timed" the motor I assume you set the timing to the spec shown on the underhood sticker (likely 10° BTDC). Which you would not be able to do if you were off by any number of teeth.

Trial and error? We're not making bean bags here. You follow the manual. http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...13distribu.pdf

More importantly, when you set the timing, you FOLLOW THE MANUAL. Don't just do something you came up with off YouTube. If you didn't place the jumper, then you weren't at base timing, and most likely your timing is off 0-8°.