No CEL, No Start
May 29, 2017 | 05:37 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,059
Likes: 101
From: Sacramento, CA
No CEL, No Start
Hey Yotatech,
Trying to track down an intermittent issue with the 4Runner. Basically what's going on is that every time i cycle the key to start the truck, the CEL doesn't illuminate and doesn't allow the truck to turn over. Any ideas? As mentioned before, it's an intermittent issue. Sometimes the CEL will illuminate, and start/run just fine.
Any ideas? I'd like to get this fixed and it's now causing my 4Runner to not pass California emissions.
Here's a video for reference on what the rig is doing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYBu...ature=youtu.be
Thanks,
Trying to track down an intermittent issue with the 4Runner. Basically what's going on is that every time i cycle the key to start the truck, the CEL doesn't illuminate and doesn't allow the truck to turn over. Any ideas? As mentioned before, it's an intermittent issue. Sometimes the CEL will illuminate, and start/run just fine.
Any ideas? I'd like to get this fixed and it's now causing my 4Runner to not pass California emissions.
Here's a video for reference on what the rig is doing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYBu...ature=youtu.be
Thanks,
May 29, 2017 | 07:59 PM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,384
Likes: 875
From: San Francisco East Bay
The CEL won't keep the truck from turning over. But loss of the EFI relay will (and it will also fail to power the ECU, which means no CEL, which means no-pass-smog.)
You can put your finger on the EFI relay (under the hood in the "fuse box") to see if it clicks when someone turns the key, but there is a MUCH better way to check that. Put your multimeter on B+ in the diagnostic connector; with key-on you should have 12v to ground. If not, use the FSM to check the relay, and if okay, work backwards toward the switch. (The switch has two key-on circuits; IG1 and IG2. A bad switch could have one but not the other, and that would cause your symptoms.)
You can put your finger on the EFI relay (under the hood in the "fuse box") to see if it clicks when someone turns the key, but there is a MUCH better way to check that. Put your multimeter on B+ in the diagnostic connector; with key-on you should have 12v to ground. If not, use the FSM to check the relay, and if okay, work backwards toward the switch. (The switch has two key-on circuits; IG1 and IG2. A bad switch could have one but not the other, and that would cause your symptoms.)
Jun 2, 2017 | 09:46 AM
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,059
Likes: 101
From: Sacramento, CA
The CEL won't keep the truck from turning over. But loss of the EFI relay will (and it will also fail to power the ECU, which means no CEL, which means no-pass-smog.)
You can put your finger on the EFI relay (under the hood in the "fuse box") to see if it clicks when someone turns the key, but there is a MUCH better way to check that. Put your multimeter on B+ in the diagnostic connector; with key-on you should have 12v to ground. If not, use the FSM to check the relay, and if okay, work backwards toward the switch. (The switch has two key-on circuits; IG1 and IG2. A bad switch could have one but not the other, and that would cause your symptoms.)
You can put your finger on the EFI relay (under the hood in the "fuse box") to see if it clicks when someone turns the key, but there is a MUCH better way to check that. Put your multimeter on B+ in the diagnostic connector; with key-on you should have 12v to ground. If not, use the FSM to check the relay, and if okay, work backwards toward the switch. (The switch has two key-on circuits; IG1 and IG2. A bad switch could have one but not the other, and that would cause your symptoms.)
I actually figured this out. The truck is equipped with an ignition lock and the truck wont start if the keyfob is within inches of the steering column. I had a spare key fob lying around and it just so happens to start every time now.
Thanks again,
