By chance do you have an engine miss?

 

Is your timing off?

 

Make sure you have all sensors plugged back in.

Throwing any SES lights or codes?

Make sure you are turning the idle screw the right way.

If your doing trial and error on timing, were you using a light? When you set the timing make sure idle is close to 800 RPMs as possible.

I would not drive until it idles right.

 

No lights or codes. It just idles rough till you give it some gas. I was basically going for the test start here so no timing light. I will try the timing light in the morning when I start again. Should I try adjusting the timing a little more?

 

Vacuum leak.

Buy, Borrow or Steal a vacuum gauge and see how many "'s you have.

 

yea i would lean towards timing too. off one tooth or somethin of that sort.

 

I Would start with timing also.

 

Does the idle improve as it warms up? I have a similar problem and was told by the stealership that the little wax piece inside the throttle body that the idle screw controls is bad and thats what's causing the rough idle when cold. Now I'm not too sure if I believe that, but it's something else for you to consider...

 

Check with a timing light first. It could be way off you never know. Not sure how you adjusted it in the first place without a light.

Then go with vaccum leaks like mentioned after making sure timing is correct. Could be one of the hard vaccum lines busted or cracked during the rebuild without you knowing.

 

I agree with the timing people. Poor timing will be evident at higher RPMs in a power loss. But if the truck isn't on the road and you increase RPMs from a not optimal timing, it will likely sound good, though it really is not. That shaking of the engine at idle is an indication of retarded timing (and you want advanced timing).

Per the FSM, when you time the truck, jumper TE1 and E1 and set to 5 degree BTDC with 750 RPM (if the truck is not warm you'll have air bypassing the throttle via the Axillary Air Valve (AAV) that thing under the throttle body that uses coolant which will cause higher RPM, but the timing portion will work fine). This jumper will cause a slight decrease in RPM. When you un-jumper, the RPMs will increase slightly. Check timing again and make sure it went up to ~10-15.

If you need help with how to use the timing light ask!! I used to time my truck without one, then picked one up for 5$. It really is an awesome tool!

 

Ok, so I had to just keep pulling the distributer out and movingone tooth at a time until it started. Now I have the distributer set in the middle of it's play if I move forward it dies and backwards it dies, so I figured it was pretty close.

Is there a sticky on timing somewhere. Sounds like I need to revisit that first?

 

I found this, going out to try it now. Looks pretty straightforward.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVKb4fedgxU

 

OK, so I followed this video and it's a lot better. The back and forth play on the distributer with the bolt is maxed out (pushing forward) to make it run best. It feels like I should pull it out and advance one tooth. Is that OK to do?

 

do it and see what happens, if it gets worse then put it back if its better there ya go..

 

No timing light???

 

yep, I do have a timing light. I'll go and shoot that real quick and see what I get.

 

OK. Timing light shows the mark at 5. I moved the distributer back and forth, and it still seems to run best at around 5.

What would you reccomend next, still starts up but sounds like crap and shakes.

 

OK, Timing now with nothing jumpered is at about 10 degrees. Still puttering like crap. No warning lights on. Idle seems low,but I don't have a tach. Any ideas?

 

Vacuum leak.

 

I agree. It must be vacuum. You should have a nice vacuum diagram on the inside of the hood.