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Newbie replaced Head Gasket, Truck wont start...

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Old 07-04-2008, 01:07 PM
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are all your chassis grounds to the motor hooked up?try adding a couple more grounding straps, to the intake manifold and engin block. and one to the back of the head, also you should be able to put a screw driver in the end of the spark plug cable and jump the spark an half inch when cranking. if your not you need to diagnose the ignition system to figure out why. if your fouling your plugs out with fuel then eather you dont have enough compression or engough spark, if your timming was off you would atleast be getting some kind of back fire, like i said try adding more grounding, even if you string jumpercables all over for a temp test, also clean all your sensor connectors with electrical contact cleaner and then smear them with some dialectric greese

Last edited by Ezrider_92356; 07-04-2008 at 01:09 PM.
Old 07-04-2008, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by StillAHondaFreak
George (Moms BF) has checked the EFI fuse under the hood like 50 times LOL he had such a hard time with that thing, everytime anything ever happens, that's the first place he goes lol
It does not matter, the truck will start without it. It will run rough though.
Old 07-04-2008, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by StillAHondaFreak
Alright guys, I know I admitted defeat earlier, but, after speaking with a guy who is a very experienced 22RE builder, I have one more thig to try, but if this doesn't work, and I doubt it will either, Then I am truly out of ideas...

He told me that if the muffler was clogged, it would not allow the engine to start, which does make sense, but, i still really think I'm just wasting my time...

I'll let you guys know in a lil bit how it goes...


Tim

Undo the exhaust from the manifold, it will sound like a WWII Spitfire, but then again, you might be able to start it and diagnose from there. Three 14mm bolts, you need a foot long extension. it is by far easiest to reach them from underneath the truck.
Old 07-04-2008, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt16
Undo the exhaust from the manifold, it will sound like a WWII Spitfire, but then again, you might be able to start it and diagnose from there. Three 14mm bolts, you need a foot long extension. it is by far easiest to reach them from underneath the truck.
Yea, I just finished that, mother BEEP still didn't start!!!

I'm done for the night, If ya'll come up with any thing else, I'll be more than willing to try it, TOMORROW LOL

The only thing that's been mentioned so far that I haven't tried is setting the valve lash, which means I gotta pull the VC back off AGAIN, for the 50th time, not literally, but it feels like it!

Thanks again guys, seriously, to each and every one of you, thank you!!!

Tim
Old 07-05-2008, 07:19 AM
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OK guys, Imma go get somethin to eat, and when I get back Imma set the valve lash and crawl under this thing and double check that all of the sensors are hooked up good and tight, and maybe just maybe, it'll fire.

Tim
Old 07-05-2008, 07:29 AM
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maybe find the local native american shaman and have a little ritual performed, and then get the catholic priest to exorcise the demons...
j/k
good luck, let us know how it goes and don't let it get the better of you.
you know it has to be something simple.
Old 07-05-2008, 09:28 AM
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LMAO I don't doubt that it's something simple, something stupid that I'm overlooking.

Does anyone happen to know the COLD specs for valve clearances? All I can find in my haynes manual are the HOT specs, .008 Intake and .012 Exhaust...

Thanks guys,
Tim
Old 07-05-2008, 10:34 AM
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there are no official cold valve clearance specs but .007 intake, .010-.011 exhaust should get you close enough.
when everything heats up, they'll grow a little. then just recheck them. yeah I know... valve cover off yet again... sorry.
Old 07-05-2008, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by StillAHondaFreak
OK OK, jeez, I'll check them after I get back from auto zone lol, I really don't wanna pull that darn valve cover again, I've had it of at least 10 times, but, the good news is It only takes about 2 minutes now lol

And no, I did not find the missing fuses, like I said, there isn't even a spot for them, they're labeled on the sticker, but I couldn't see them or where they are supposed to be anywhere back there, any idea where they could be hiding??? I'm being serious here guys, I don't even see a spot for them lol

Thanks, AGAIN,
Tim

The stickered label for the fuses on the driver kick panel,is sometimes universal to several different model Yoyta's.
Don't go bonkers over a different issue. Keep to your path of getting the engine to fire. I see a lot of great info these guys are giving you and you seem like you got your game on. So,patience and the process of elimination will get it started.
I'm not trying to be a smart ass,but if the thing ran before and you never noticed "missing" fuses. Don't sweat it. Could very well be that your model rig,don't get them fuses. Remember,some of the simplest things could be universal to other rigs. A way for the manufacturer to keep cost down when mass producing them.
:>)
Old 07-05-2008, 11:10 AM
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P.S. When all else fails.
1) Calmly walk to the fridge.
2) Grab a beer.
3) Go to the bedroom,get the heaviest piece of killing implament (shotgun) that you have available.
4) Load heavily.
5) Calmly walk to the rig.
6) Give rig it's last options to start.
7) Try one last time. If she don't fire.
8) Chug beer.
9) Pump implament.
10) Aim at deisred,hatred part.
11) Squeeze trigger.
12) Smile.
13) Give last rights.
14) Give the finger.
15) Apply for loan.
Old 07-05-2008, 11:13 AM
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omg... lol hahaha that got to be the funniest sheeet ive heard on yt..
very good man.. very good
Old 07-05-2008, 12:50 PM
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Exclamation May Have Found The Problem

Originally Posted by dutchboy
P.S. When all else fails.
1) Calmly walk to the fridge.
2) Grab a beer.
3) Go to the bedroom,get the heaviest piece of killing implament (shotgun) that you have available.
4) Load heavily.
5) Calmly walk to the rig.
6) Give rig it's last options to start.
7) Try one last time. If she don't fire.
8) Chug beer.
9) Pump implament.
10) Aim at deisred,hatred part.
11) Squeeze trigger.
12) Smile.
13) Give last rights.
14) Give the finger.
15) Apply for loan.
ROFLMAO!!!!!

Oh man, how I would LOVE to do that!!!

However, I think I may have found the problem...


I am led to believe that the block is warped

After setting the valve lash and triple checking it, and everything else, I ran another compression check.

The results were shocking and depressing.

#1. 135 dry, 165 wet
#2. 110 dry, 130 wet
#3. 70! dry, 85! wet
#4. 160 dry, 180 wet

So, because of these readings, and the fact that I had the head resurfaced, and not the block, I am led to believe the block is warped.

I could be wrong, but, I am so sick of this thing that I am going with the "worst case" scenario.

So, unless you guys can come up with anything else, I am going to tell George that he either needs to buy ANOTHER gasket set, and I'll pull the motor out and take the block to be resurfaced and start over, (or just go get a "running" engine" from a salvage yard (about 1000 bucks, so probably not gonna happen) or we can go to pull a part and try to find one and rebuild it) this time building it on an engine stand, OR he can tow the stupid thing to his house, or the shop of his choice, cause I'm done with it.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated,
Thanks again guys,
Tim
Old 07-05-2008, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dutchboy
P.S. When all else fails.
1) Calmly walk to the fridge.
2) Grab a beer.
3) Go to the bedroom,get the heaviest piece of killing implament (shotgun) that you have available.
4) Load heavily.
5) Calmly walk to the rig.
6) Give rig it's last options to start.
7) Try one last time. If she don't fire.
8) Chug beer.
9) Pump implament.
10) Aim at deisred,hatred part.
11) Squeeze trigger.
12) Smile.
13) Give last rights.
14) Give the finger.
15) Apply for loan.
ok, heres where im at..... #13......
all i can say is thank good i bought my tundra cause this runners about to get #14 and then it'll look like this
Old 07-05-2008, 12:58 PM
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exactly why i only wrench on my own fleet
Old 07-05-2008, 01:02 PM
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the block should not warp under all but the worst circumstances.
did you replace the rings in the engine?
and that compression should have marginal influence on the engine starting.

Last edited by abecedarian; 07-05-2008 at 01:03 PM.
Old 07-05-2008, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by abecedarian
the block should not warp under all but the worst circumstances.
did you replace the rings in the engine?
and that compression should have marginal influence on the engine starting.
no, I didn't replace the rings.

you said "under the worst circumstances" well, how's this sound, he's been runnin it for 8 YEARS with a bad head gasket!!! He said it's been over heated AT LEAST 100 times, and he had so much friggin "head gasket in a bottle" junk in there it was a nightmare cleaning everything up.

And you really think that the compression wouldn't keep it from starting?


thanks guys,
Tim
Old 07-05-2008, 03:42 PM
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I'm quite sure the 4 banger will still run with 3 cylinders working.
Old 07-05-2008, 03:50 PM
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Do you have your crossover tube installed?
Old 07-05-2008, 04:24 PM
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was the truck running befor the head job?
Old 07-05-2008, 04:59 PM
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If the engine has been run with a blown hg for 8 years, the block should've been stripped bare and rebuild.


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