StillAHondaFreak

UPDATED, PAGE 4 POST 127


Hey guys!

Title pretty much says it all, but, I'll throw in a few details as to avoid too many questions;

This is not my truck, I was asked to Replace the head gasket on my mothers BFs truck (95 2WD 22RE) I suggested replacing the timing components and head bolts as well as a few gaskets that weren't included in the Head Gasket set. All were purchased and installed.

Timing is dead on at 5 deg BTDC as stated on the underhood sticker. No leaks anywhere, and timing was initially set at 0 deg BTDC but, wouldn't start, so after some research, I adjusted it to 5deg... all hoses and connecters are hooked up properly, as far as i know, lol


The only thing i can think of left for it to be, is that I somehow managed to hook the injectors up wrong???

I have spark, and I can smell fuel, compression test was even all the way across.

I am about ready to give up on this thing, I was the Lead Tech at my shop before I got injured and placed on disability, which, if I can find a Dr who will see me, I hope to be getting off of on or around Aug 15 and am hoping to go back to work.

I just want you guys to know that I'm not some kid who has no idea whats going on, I am 27 years old, and have been working on vehicles for over 15 years, and professionally for a lil over 9 1/2 years.

I did a search, and read alot of different posts on head gaskets, timing chains, and wiring, but cant seem to find anything that fits my situation.

I was supposed to be receiving an Acura Integra as trade for this job, but that didn't work out, but, none the less, I still need to get it running so I can receive some sort of payment. I am about sick and tired of sitting around the house all day bored as hell, and finishing this truck will give me some of the freedom I so badly want.

Thanks in advance for any replies!

Tim

abecedarian

how can you tell the timing is at 5 btdc if the engine won't start?
anyways, is it possible you've got the distributor rotor 180 degrees out?
it'd still point @ #1 cylinder, but be sparking at the top of the exhaust stroke, not the intake stroke.

StillAHondaFreak

OK, i guess a lil more explanation is necessary, my bad...

The engine is set to 5 deg BTDC off, and while cranking, it still shows 5 deg BTDC with a timing light.

I am almost 100% sure the distributor is right, as the rockers are "loose" with the distributor pointing to #1


Like I stated earlier, I am really starting to think I somehow managed to hook up the injectors wrong, even though the wiring harness makes it look like there's only one way to put them on.

Thanks again
Tim

abecedarian

the injector plugs only fit one way so that's not the issue.
you say you are a mechanic so please don't take offense at the next few questions-
are you sure the plug wires are correct 1-3-4-2?
are the plugs showing any signs of flooding or fouling?
do you have all the sensors connected- in particular the air flow meter?
is the intake duct installed and clamped sufficiently tight?
are the valves adjusted properly?

does the engine give you any sign it's trying to start?

just a 22re

ok you have fuel and spark what about air? is there a plug somewhere? as for the injectors yeah only one way there to the rotor might be off 180 as abe said lots of people do this and get the same thing you have now make sure the tps is set right to spec and make sure the afm is good and letting the truck start with out it your not going to get to far as this was my problem when i rebuilt mine pluged it in and she fired with a heart beat on the key

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

dizzy 180 out is my guess

rustypigeon

I don't think it is the injectors. The 22re injectors all fire at the same time, so even if you mixed the injector wiring up, they will fire the same. I would look at any wiring you disconnected when you pulled the head particularly the air flow meter. The engine will not get any fuel if it doesn't get the signal from the airflow meter. I think you mentioned you checked the distributor... make sure the number one cylinder rocker arms are loose and the number four rockers are tight when TDC and the rotor pointing at the number one position on the distributor.

StillAHondaFreak

ok guys,
Thanks so much for your replies!!

The timing is now set to 0 deg BTDC, for some idiotic reason, I went ahead and set it to 5 deg BTDC, I was just so frustrated with this thing, that I didn't even question weather or not they were referring to the ignition timing!

Anyway, as I said, I went ahead and pulled the valve cover off and double checked the timing, and set it to 0 and the cam is dead nuts on its mark.

The rotor is not 180 out, it is hitting with all the marks aligned and #1 on the compression stroke.

All of the wiring i hooked up correctly, or at least it appears to be, aren't all the connectors wired in to only fit on certian sensors?

After setting the timing perfect, It fired!! It was running like crap, so I cut if off, and, now it won't fire again!!!

I am really giving up faith here guys....

My uncle stopped by to help out, and he thinks maybe the battery has drained enough that we aren't getting enough voltage to fire the plugs hot enough, or that the engine isn't turning over fast enough???

We have hooked a Battery charger up to it, and are hoping that that may fix the problem???


One of you mentioned setting the TPS properly or something to that nature.. Not to sound like an idiot, I know what the TPS is, and where its located, but aren't they sealed units and not adjustable??


Forgive me for my idiotic statements, but as you can probably tell by my screen name, I am a honda Guru, and none of this crap is making sence to me, that, and I'm so frustrated I cant think right...


Thanks again guys!!

Tim

HOOKED

It sound like you have 1 or 2 wires injector wires lines off even if you think there on they might not be.


http://www.jaroca.com/4RUNNER/Hooked_4runner.htm
87 4-Runner 4X4 New Engine New Clutch and much more

Things ready to on order or to install

488 Gears
Rock Sliders
Aussie Locker in the Back
Making my own 1 1/2 Ball Joint Spacer
Rear Shackles

TORTIS

iTrader: (1)

i think the dizzy can still be 180 out and still be pointing a #1.

rustypigeon

The TPS is adjustable. Unless you knocked it out of position, it should be ok. What I would do right now is see if there are any trouble codes. Turn the ignition to ON, but do not start the engine. Find the Data link connector (behind the battery in the engine compartment) open the cover and put a jumper wire (you can use a bent paper clip) in terminals TE1 and E1. Then go back to the drivers seat and see what you malfunction indicator light (check engine) light is doing. A steady flash at 2 blinks a second is normal operation. If it is doing anything other than that it found a problem. Hopefully if you have a wire that is not connected, the ECM picked up the problem and stored it.

StillAHondaFreak

Imma jump on that right now, i'll be back to let you know if there's any codes!

Thanks
Tim

HOOKED

Make sure you have the all the springs on the connections


http://www.jaroca.com/4RUNNER/Hooked_4runner.htm
87 4-Runner 4X4 New Engine New Clutch and much more

Things ready to on order or to install

488 Gears
Rock Sliders
Aussie Locker in the Back
Making my own 1 1/2 Ball Joint Spacer
Rear Shackles

StillAHondaFreak

Springs on connections???? lmao, sorry but you totally lost me

StillAHondaFreak

OK, jumped the diagnostic link, and the check engine light was just steady blinking, so, no codes are stored right???


Tried hooking up the battery charger set to start, still wont fire...


I am fresh out of ideas here guys

Uncle sent my aunt to their house to get some starting fluid, gonna spray it in the intake either at the brake booster hook up, or in the one that goes to the valve cover, other than that, I got nothin!

Thanks again for all the replies guys!

Tim

rustypigeon

when you charged the battery did you disconnect it from the vehicle? If you did you lost any stored codes when you did that.

Anyway assuming there are no codes, I would now double check the timing. If it was able to run rough before, it might be off a couple too many degrees yet. Loosen the distributor adjustment bolt and have someone crank the engine while you slowly turn the distributor back and forth a bit. If the timing is off a bit, it will fire right up when you find the sweet spot.

***actually, the more I think about it, the more I think that this is your problem***


.

StillAHondaFreak

I really appreciate the help, but, we've already gone down that road...

I'm giving up for tonight,
Tomorrow We're gonna replace the cap, rotor, and wires, although I really don't think thats gonna help

Oh well, I you guys can think of anything else, please say so.

Thanks again for all your help guys, the guys on the honda forums aren't nearly as helpful, I would have gotten a bunch of NOOB posts and crap like that.

Tim

StillAHondaFreak

bed time bump

Matt16

Please never use blue text again. Exactly what happens when you try to start it?

Check you distributer is on right.
Check the plug wires go to the correct plugs.
Check your VAFM is plugged in (though if it weren't, it should catch, then die).
Check your fuel lines are going to the right place.

StillAHondaFreak

I changed the first post just for you lol

When I try to start it it just spins, thats it, you can smell gas, and, if you turn it over long enough, it'll start to try to fire, but it never does...

All of the timing marks are dead nuts on their marks.
The wires are run correctly.
VAFM??? sorry, I'm a Honda Guru, you lost me on that one lol
As far as I know, the fuel lines are correct, If I remember correctly, I only had to unhook the main fuel line that goes from the filter to the fuel rail with the big banjo bolt, the fuel return line that hooks to the FPR, and the other banjo bolt that feeds into the cold start valve.

There's a gremlin in there somewhere and I just cant find it

Thanks for your interest...
Tim