New Ticking Noise
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New Ticking Noise
My motor has @3000 miles on it so far. Just had the block machined and rebuilt with a master pack from Engbuilder along with a new head from Engbuilder as well. Recently I started getting a ticking noise that has gotten progessively worse. It is very noticeable when it starts cold in the morning and then quiets as it warms. Once at temp it's only heard when the motor is under load. It sounds like it's coming from the exhuast side of the one or two cylinder. I've pulled the cover and checked the gaps on the valves and made sure no to over tighten the cover. It really sounds like a valve tapping though. The head is new however and I can't imagine a valve would be sticking already. The ticking/tapping also just started in the last few weeks so it's not like I somehow smacked a valve into the piston during install because that would have been obvious from the get go. It worries me because it's getting worse. Any ideas?
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Sounds like it may be a small exhaust leak. As the metal heats up it expands and nearly seals it off. I wouldn't rule out something else completely, but that's what it sounds like to me
#3
You can get a cheap $4 Mechanics Stethoscope at Harbor Freight to help you locate/determine the source of the noise http://www.harborfreight.com/mechani...ope-69913.html
Last edited by Odin; 02-11-2015 at 09:03 AM.
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I sent an email to Ted at Engbuilder and he suggested the same things. I put a stethoscope on it and the manifold had a pretty steady hum all over it. The valve cover didn't scream at me either. The nuts that hold the cover were the most pronounced as expected. The rear exhaust side was the loudest. I pulled the cover and went through valves again, engine warm everything was to spec. Buttoned everything up and the tapping continued. I even checked the dizzy and power steering pump since they seem to be in the neighborhood of the tapping. Not that I expected to hear anything from those but I figured why not. Just a steady hum also. Scratching head as we speak.
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I took the Runner to the machine shop that built my block and he was also thinking exhaust. Tomorrow I plan on pulling the manifold and giving it a once over. The machinists said to bring it by and he would check the edge on it. Ted from Engbuilder said these stock mani's were known for internal cracks. So I might be looking at a new manifold which is better than something in the long block. Did some reading on headers vs manifolds last night. I don't have a need for high end power gains. It seems like a reputable low end header is going to cost somewhere in the $500 range which is not in the budget right now. The stock manifold seems to be considered a decent option for low to mid range. Don't know what my best option for the stock manifold is though. The few on EBay didn't have a port for the O2 sensor. I've read mixed reviews on the Dorman product that pops up. Unfortunately the nearest bone yard to me has nothing 22RE related. Suggestions?
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#8
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Just wondering?? Could you look at the cam lobes for me. I wiped two cams and I'm pretty sure its because .gov mandated to remove zinc from the oil. So the cams in these 22re engines need zinc to protect the rocker / lifter and lubricate the cam. No zinc and the cams lobes at the top are rounded off, resulting valve tap for no reason (pass) because the top of the lobe is missing.
Currently I put in a bottle of STP to get the zinc back in the oil.
Currently I put in a bottle of STP to get the zinc back in the oil.
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I will pull the cover tomorrow morning when I'm yanking the manifold and snap some photos of the cam. The cam has about 3000 miles on it. I used zinc when I installed it. I've changed the oil a couple of times due to the rebuild break in but haven't used any additives. I've never seen a bad cam that I'm aware of and don't know what to look for. I will post some pics in the morning. Thanks
#10
Just wondering?? Could you look at the cam lobes for me. I wiped two cams and I'm pretty sure its because .gov mandated to remove zinc from the oil. So the cams in these 22re engines need zinc to protect the rocker / lifter and lubricate the cam. No zinc and the cams lobes at the top are rounded off, resulting valve tap for no reason (pass) because the top of the lobe is missing.
Currently I put in a bottle of STP to get the zinc back in the oil.
Currently I put in a bottle of STP to get the zinc back in the oil.
ZDDP Plus is what Crower and Isky recommend these days. Both are old and very reputable cam companies. EVERY cam company used to recommend General Motors OES until they changed that for the government too. Well every cam company I know of except Competition Cams, which recommended their own break in lube. As I understood it the Comp Cams break in product was garbage back then.
Unless they've changed it Valvoline Racing VR1 still has a good ZDDP package that protects high wear areas like cam, rockers, and in other engines, lifters.
Last edited by Odin; 02-12-2015 at 03:52 AM.
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Prior to my rebuild I just changed the oil. Occasionally I would use Lucus oil treatment but otherwise just castrol high mileage synthetic blend. That motor ran smooth and quiet for the 30,000 miles I put on it before it got super hot and demanded a rebuild. I decided to upgrade the cam while I had everything apart. I followed the break in procedure for a new cam but haven't done anything special for it since.
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I took the Runner to the machine shop that built my block and he was also thinking exhaust. Tomorrow I plan on pulling the manifold and giving it a once over. The machinists said to bring it by and he would check the edge on it. Ted from Engbuilder said these stock mani's were known for internal cracks. So I might be looking at a new manifold which is better than something in the long block. Did some reading on headers vs manifolds last night. I don't have a need for high end power gains. It seems like a reputable low end header is going to cost somewhere in the $500 range which is not in the budget right now. The stock manifold seems to be considered a decent option for low to mid range. Don't know what my best option for the stock manifold is though. The few on EBay didn't have a port for the O2 sensor. I've read mixed reviews on the Dorman product that pops up. Unfortunately the nearest bone yard to me has nothing 22RE related. Suggestions?
#13
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Problem solved. Bad manifold. I pulled mine off and a visual inspection didn't raise any red flags. So I took it to the machine shop and they checked the edge and it was good. He gave it a good once over and still didn't raise flags. This was the same guy that thought it sounded like a leak somewhere around the manifold, so we were both confused. The gasket didn't show any signs of stress either. Nonetheless he called a buddy of his that had some 22re parts and found a manifold he would be willing to loan me to see if there was any change. What a difference it made. Not only did the ticking go away the motor is much smoother all around. Thanks everybody for giving me your thoughts.
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