okay. Looking at the intake valve for cylinder #2 again, I see the oil seal, BUT what is the oil seal sitting on? It's clearly not part of the oil seal according to the image from flyingbrass. Here is the image, a little mapped out to show what I'm talking about.

(where I put valve, I mean valve stem*)

 

take the spring off and see what's what

 

possable valve guide, not sure by looking at the pic, the valve guide is brass I believe, take the spring off and check them out. i still think this is the problem and hopefully not the rings, this would be a easier fix I think. get a spring compressor and post up some pics.

 

You have the engine broken down this far. It would be dumb not to check the rings. I would replace them even if they are good just because they are cheap and, well I would sleep better... I just built the 22re in my 4Runner a couple of months ago. The valve seat fell out of the old head. Good luck.

 

agreed....you've got it out and easily accessible.

 

Well, pulled all the valves off.

This is a valve guide with the oil seal sitting on the end of it:


here is what was under that valve spring that looked off:

a broken valve guide... which oddly is to the cleanest combustion chamber....
EDIT: here was the valve with the broken guide, the cleanest valve of them all:



BUT from that same cylinder I got the ugliest exhaust valve:


all the other exhaust valves had a little carbon, but none comparable.
the intake valves were pretty clean all around.

Anyone install valves guides? any info would be appreciated!!


I don't think one broken valve guide could account for the amount of oil, especially considering the amount of dirt in the other combustion chambers.

 

is that exhaust valve bent, looks like it in the pic. could just be the pic, might check it out that could cause the guide to break.

 

I think it's just the picture. But I edited the posted above because it was a little misleading. The intake valve had the broken valve guide, which is the clean one.

 

Ditto on the rings. I know its a fresh rebuild but there is nothing like some extra insurance. If the builder screwed up a valve guide, who knows if the rod and mains are even torqued to specs. IMO, tear it all down.

 

Any source on decent rings @ .020 over?

 

Check out Napa or Jegs...places like that. Looks like they are really reasonably priced.

 

Here is the valve from the busted valve guide. It's slightly bent, I'm guessing manufacture defect.





I pulled the pistons out. I haven't measured anything as of yet. Going to check the cylinder diameter against piston size, and also ring gap size to see whats going on here. 3/4 of the Pistons weren't even close to having staggered rings. If I can get the info on who built this engine i will definitely let you guys know because this is just sad:







and my favorite:


Also plastigaged the rod bearings to the crank
SPEC: .025-.055 MM
uniform across all:

 

Wow. That is just amazing. With all that done the way it was, Im suprised the motor actually ran. The builder must have learned his engine building skills from "The Teevee".

 

i kinda dought manufacture defect. may have broken timing chain before or timing way off and caused bent valve. just a guess though. maybe you can get a warranty on the engine!!

 

From my personal experience I urge you to avoid:
AER Mfg., Inc. in Carrollton, TX.


This engine was poorly rebuilt, and should have never been sold.

 

Have you contacted them with all of your evidence yet? Not saying you should try to get anything out of it, but at least file a solid complaint with them. They must have the Pinball Wizard working for them.

 

Did you measure the ring gaps? Just curious.

Engnbldr told me rings will work around after installation until they settle in to wherever they want to be. That was in answer to a question I posed about initially placing the gaps less than 180 degrees apart. I had read some advocating putting them 90 or so degrees out instead for better compression.

 

Sorry I havnt posted recently, been busy with work and looking for a tool rental and machine shop around my area.

I have measured the ring gap, and are within spec. So now i'm just looking to rent tools to find Piston clearance.

I was just reading a thread here talking about chrome top rings on these engines never seating, versus the standard steel. I wonder if that could have complicating things here, but I don't know how to tell a difference. My rings are stamped TAE 020 1.5 92, don't know if that says anything.

So maybe I will starting switching into rebuild mode:

what rings have you guys gone with. Considering this Chrome ring problem, I might just go for steel but I hear those only last for 100k. What material was original rings made from, or who? I mean original 22res make it past 200k w/o ring probs. So who makes OEM rings?

How about valve brands?

 

I've had problems with a few engines not seating with chrome rings. Its been a hit and miss thing that I never figured out why. I've built several of these engine for myself and friends. I've had 2 of the engines I built for myself not seat the chrome rings. One of them I pulled back apart and put standard rings in and they seated right away. I have had the best luck using new pistons with the chrome rings. In the 4runnner I have now I just built the 22re and used chrome rings and have had no problems at all.

 

Valve guides seals won't blow that much oil. Old engines didn't even have valve guide seals and I built a motor once and forgot to install the seals.
Blow-by is the only way you can get that much oil. You are building pressure in the crankcase The piston ring to gland clearance has probably been compromised. The rings are probably stuck to the pistion. Don't wus out here. Pull those pistons out and lets have a look. You don't have to pull the crank.