No peeling or anything, some scratches but nothing big.

By hand with some foam product applicators and Meguiars Ultimate Compound, followed by wax. Took a few hours to do the front end.

If you used a buffer I'm sure it would be even better, but Ultimate Compound is still pretty great by hand.

 

Zuk mod is only if you wanna lift it to carry more weight(make it a pre-runner looking thingy, lol)... You could also do a BJ spacer for 2WD up front or another type lift and roll a lifted 2WD.. I've seen clean jobs, both ways.... You could do those type mods to carry a couple toys and get a lil further on the trails(even lock the rear end)... But if you don't plan to use it for that, just leave it alone

 

I think I'm gonna do the oil pan gasket on this thing soon. Do you guys recommend using Toyota's sealant with it too or just gasket?

 

im gonna get yelled at here! , but i make sure the surface of the pan is nice and staight with no distorsion from over tightening (tap back in place with small hammer agains a solid flat surface to fix ) then "clean" and "degrease" both surfaces and use a quality rtv or similar sealant with no gasket.gently but snugly tighten up and let set till dry ( usually over night if possible ) now let the rants fly guys !! ps while you have the pan down clean the oil pick up screen , its possible it could be covered with plastic filings from the t-chain giudes.

 

A quality RTV silicone and cork gasket will probably be fine.

A sealer that works well for lots of motorcycle applications is Yamabond 4 or equivalent. It is used for sealing crankcase halves and stays flexible and is easy to shave off upon removal. I just haven't tried it on a Toyota pan gasket before. It also is not for filling big gaps, so tight surfaces or a gasket is necessary.

 

Any experience with Toyota's sealant? FIPG I believe it's called.

 

not me. but that yamaha sealer that was just mentioned is some high quality stuff !! they have a sealer for every situation. i can only assume the toyota sealer would probally be just as good as any other quality sealer or toyota wouldnt recomend it. reading labels and using the right product for the right job as well as prepping the surfaces propperly is just as important as the quality of the sealer.most of the pans ive come across that ive needed to remove have been glued in place with no gasket, ive always assumed that it was that way from toyota. the gaskets that are available should be used on pans that have been distorted beyond repair. to remove the pan i use a thin 2 - 3 inch putty knife with a sharpened edge and drive it in between the two parts carefully w/hammer.

 

85 and Up 22RE gets NO OIL PAN GASKET.... "85+ 22RE uses FIPG ONLY, rather than FIPG and Cork Gasket.... Using the gasket in the wrong years/later years can lead to bowing out and serious leaks as the pan is 'channeled' and does not need the gasket." Also, don't forget to use sealant on each oil pan bolt(I removed the studs and did those as well).... ALSO remember to draw the bead of sealant around the INSIDE of where the bolt holes will go through(I just made a lil circle around each bolt hole, fairly generous bead, but NOT CRAZY thick... Maybe the size of a pencil diameter?)

X2 on removing the pick up tube and cleaning it well... BUT, don't forget that there is a Gasket under that pick up tube seating surface with the block. You can most likely get it at any parts store... If not, you could make one out of 3M Gasket Paper.

Cleaning the surface can be a bear(not on the pan, obviously, lol.... more so on the block). I took an exacto Razor and slowly cut away the sealant on the pan side, working my way toward the back, then when I could get something in there, I used that flathead screwdriver gently to turn sideways and pry apart, especially toward the back as it wont always wanna break free. Then clean the block with a scotch bright pad and acetone.... Let the oil drain down for a couple hours, because as you get ready to slap the pan back on, you'll see more oil will have worked it's way down from the bearings and such and will be dripping down the blocks pan surface toward the back. Wipe it clean with acetone again right before applying, then get it in as quickly as possible, using the studs as guides and placement alignment... Don't forget the oil pick up tube gasket and 4 bolts are tightened to torque before you hit the oil pan up and in. (oil pan bolts are 9-11lb, max!) Also, when cleaning the block surface.... reach up in the holes and clean out as much FIPG as possible from the bolt holes... Otherwise, when you go to put sealer on the bolt ends before reinstalling, they wont seat right and tight. You'll likely see sealer on the ends of all the bolts as you remove em.

Best wishes man!

PS> Maybe I'm wrong in the cork gasket dept., pertaining to 2WD 22RE's after 85? Not sure, but the book will tell you clearly

 

PS> You can use "The Right Stuff", it works good and it's easy to apply in that pump tube. You could also use most any quality Gray RTV/FIPG(FIPG just means Form In Place Gasket).... But many seem to prefer the Toyota FIPK(it's VERY STICKY STUFF! ... makes a freaking mess if you're not careful.. and dries fairly fast/begins to tack fast, so you wanna work fast as safely/carefully possible). The part number is out in my garage... But any OEM counter can tell you, it's a common buy. It's for "Oil pan and Cam Cover" usage.

What I was saying about the oil pick up tube.... I'm not sure on the 2WD, ...but on my 4WD IFS rig, at least... IT WAS A PITA to get the pan up in there, even with the Diff Dropped down(which you don't have)... Getting it over the Pick Up Tube and in mine was impossible, even with that diff dropped... so I had to have the pan ready, then quickly bolt in the pick up tube... WITH THE PAN RIGHT THERE, almost literally in the way. I had to reach in my hand across the pan surface and got FIPK all over my arm... NOT FUN TO GET OFF! haha... So next time, I would have put the sealer on that last corner(front passenger side of the oil pan) at the very last step... THEN pushed it up over the studs, started one of those nuts, then put in a back opposite corner oil pan bolt, then back and forth until it was done(most of which I did, aside from having the whole pan covered in sealant already). With my 4WD, the oil pick up tube has to be INSIDE the pan when bringing up the pan to install, because there is not sufficient room to install the pan with that tube in the way... And trust me, the pick up screen sits right in the bottom of the oil pan in the rear of the pan.... so it's TIGHT..... AS I SAID, with the 4WD. Not sure what all of a squeeze it is on your job... but I assume even 2WD it's still tight in a couple places, like the rear of the pan being right up against the pick up tube AND Bell housing Back Plate. Cross Member and steering linkage were a lil precarious as well.

Just check it out as you pull the pan, by trying to reinstall it before you even pull it out, just to see how tight of a squeeze it is up in that 2WD Cherry you got there.

 

Hmm, maybe I should ask Toyota to verify this. I called them today and they gave me a quote for an actual oil pan gasket (unless it's FIPK).

 

Finished the buff job on the truck today and waxed the bed twice.

Before


After


What I used for detailing:
- Meguiars Ultimate Compound (applied by hand)
- Meguiars Gold Class paste wax (applied by hand)
- Meguiars Deep Crystal car wash soap

On another note, just went through my first full tank of gas and I averaged 29.96 MPG. I'm excited to see how it improves as I replace the air filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires.

 

GT? HOLY CRAPOLI! That looks amazing!

PS> YEP, you should make double sure, .... as I said, "Not sure" on the 2WD... They'll know. And if it's not meant to be there? YOU'LL KNOW.....when it leaks like a pig! lol. JK, they'll know for sure.. I'm willing to bet SOMEONE there has done a few, or at least a couple, ya know? Plus, someone on here would know NO DOUBT!

 

The 1993 e-manual specifically says to use this on a 22R-E:

"Seal packing: Part No.08826–00080 or equivalent. Install a nozzle that has been cut to a 5–mm(0.20 in.) opening.
HINT: Avoid applying an excess amount to the surface. Be especially careful near oil passages."

In other words, no gasket.

 

Nice detail job and a nice truck! Keep it all stock or Baja all the way with long travel IFS

 

THANKS, DIRT! hahaha... I appreciate that! I don't have anything but my 88FSM(for my 87 4WD rig, hehehe)... So just couldn't tell for sure. What I was going by, honestly, was the fact that I DIDN'T KNOW, and once used the Gasket that came with the "KIT", haha... (yeah, I didn't realize til 1. it leaked like a pig and 2. there were LOTS of gaskets in there for every year 22RE and even V6 models in there! hhaha)... and 3....the HAYNES, of all things! lol... It actually says in BOLD, '85 and up 22RE USES NO GASKET!' or something like that... I read RIGHT PAST IT! haha

Good to hear from ya, DD, as always! Nice and hot for ya? 4 ALARM, YESTERDAY, MAN!

 

Just an update, been driving this daily with no issues. Averaging 28+ MPG or so, my commute is roughly 30 miles each way, mostly highway. I've done a small tune up by changing the air filter, spark plugs and wires (NGK).

Also ordered some AutoPal H4 housings and Philips X-treme Power bulbs. I'm excited to replace my crappy Sylvania headlights.

 

So I've owned the truck for a few months so far and I'm loving it. Still has a small oil leak but no issues other than that. I just hit 185k this past week but this morning my battery was extremely weak and could barely start the truck. I ran an errand to the post office and when I came back out the truck wouldn't start so I definitely knew it was the battery.

I had it jump started and drove to Autozone and the tester confirmed it was 100% dead. The sales person at Autozone said my old battery (old Duralast) was over 10 years old. Replaced it with a fresh Duralast Gold and truck runs like a champ now! The battery I bought has much more cranking amps than my last one.

Also cleaned it today after months of rain and road grime. I've noticed that there is some surface rust developing in the bed but have no idea how "bad" it is. If someone could chime in I would appreciate it.

 

Right on man, good to see u back! I love my Duralast Gold.... outlasted my buddies DieHard already, lol. They make a Platinum now as well

 

What do you guys think about the truck bed? Is it repairable?

Ignore the water in the top corner.

 

Assuming there is no serious corrosion or perforation, sure it's repairable. It would be even with holes, but I get the impression you don't want to involve patch panels and welding...