New motor stalls out/No power help!
02-12-2019, 02:30 PM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alright figured out the dash light issue found a ground that managed to get buried and never hooked up. Truck is still having trouble starting (LONG CRANKS) and still stalls out with no power but will stay running as long as my foot is on the gas. I pulled the tube off of the PCV valve and there was quite a bit of oil in the hose is this normal?
02-12-2019, 03:55 PM
#22
Registered User
Some oil condensate is normal.
Since you have to keep the throttle open for the engine to run, I got to thinking....pcv stuck open or major air intake leak somewhere like an open port or vac line? Too lean a mixture, that you have to force the ecu to put out more fuel by going WOT with the accelerator.
Try this. Disconnect the pcv from the air intake hose and plug the open ports shut. Then try cranking. If its stuck open, the valve is no good. Plugging it is a way to simulate a closed valve such as what should happen during idling.
There is the pcv rattle test, but not very reliable way to confirm.
But I think its an intake leak. Large enough to stall. Can spray starter fluid around the intake and surrounding hoses as you (or someone) cranks and see if it manages to find its way in and get it cranked over. Especially around where the egr used to be. You had an engine torn apart from my understanding. If it cranks over when spraying in a particular area, you likely have an air leak. Only do this test if no arcs or sparks present. Fire extinguisher ready nearby in case.
Or fuel-related.. Someone suggested taking a look at the direction of your fuel filter. Did that yield anything?
Fuel pressure. I'm wondering how the fuel press regulator is hooked up and it wasnt mentioned if you tested it.
Do these engines have a cold start injector?
I dont think the unusual exhaust finding relates. But one less thing to stress over.
I could definitely learn something here so if anything I said is off course, please set the record straight
Since you have to keep the throttle open for the engine to run, I got to thinking....pcv stuck open or major air intake leak somewhere like an open port or vac line? Too lean a mixture, that you have to force the ecu to put out more fuel by going WOT with the accelerator.
Try this. Disconnect the pcv from the air intake hose and plug the open ports shut. Then try cranking. If its stuck open, the valve is no good. Plugging it is a way to simulate a closed valve such as what should happen during idling.
There is the pcv rattle test, but not very reliable way to confirm.
But I think its an intake leak. Large enough to stall. Can spray starter fluid around the intake and surrounding hoses as you (or someone) cranks and see if it manages to find its way in and get it cranked over. Especially around where the egr used to be. You had an engine torn apart from my understanding. If it cranks over when spraying in a particular area, you likely have an air leak. Only do this test if no arcs or sparks present. Fire extinguisher ready nearby in case.
Or fuel-related.. Someone suggested taking a look at the direction of your fuel filter. Did that yield anything?
Fuel pressure. I'm wondering how the fuel press regulator is hooked up and it wasnt mentioned if you tested it.
Do these engines have a cold start injector?
I dont think the unusual exhaust finding relates. But one less thing to stress over.
I could definitely learn something here so if anything I said is off course, please set the record straight
02-12-2019, 04:48 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Some oil condensate is normal.
Since you have to keep the throttle open for the engine to run, I got to thinking....pcv stuck open or major air intake leak somewhere like an open port or vac line? Too lean a mixture, that you have to force the ecu to put out more fuel by going WOT with the accelerator.
Try this. Disconnect the pcv from the air intake hose and plug the open ports shut. Then try cranking. If its stuck open, the valve is no good. Plugging it is a way to simulate a closed valve such as what should happen during idling.
There is the pcv rattle test, but not very reliable way to confirm.
But I think its an intake leak. Large enough to stall. Can spray starter fluid around the intake and surrounding hoses as you (or someone) cranks and see if it manages to find its way in and get it cranked over. Especially around where the egr used to be. You had an engine torn apart from my understanding. If it cranks over when spraying in a particular area, you likely have an air leak. Only do this test if no arcs or sparks present. Fire extinguisher ready nearby in case.
Or fuel-related.. Someone suggested taking a look at the direction of your fuel filter. Did that yield anything?
Fuel pressure. I'm wondering how the fuel press regulator is hooked up and it wasnt mentioned if you tested it.
Do these engines have a cold start injector?
I dont think the unusual exhaust finding relates. But one less thing to stress over.
I could definitely learn something here so if anything I said is off course, please set the record straight
Since you have to keep the throttle open for the engine to run, I got to thinking....pcv stuck open or major air intake leak somewhere like an open port or vac line? Too lean a mixture, that you have to force the ecu to put out more fuel by going WOT with the accelerator.
Try this. Disconnect the pcv from the air intake hose and plug the open ports shut. Then try cranking. If its stuck open, the valve is no good. Plugging it is a way to simulate a closed valve such as what should happen during idling.
There is the pcv rattle test, but not very reliable way to confirm.
But I think its an intake leak. Large enough to stall. Can spray starter fluid around the intake and surrounding hoses as you (or someone) cranks and see if it manages to find its way in and get it cranked over. Especially around where the egr used to be. You had an engine torn apart from my understanding. If it cranks over when spraying in a particular area, you likely have an air leak. Only do this test if no arcs or sparks present. Fire extinguisher ready nearby in case.
Or fuel-related.. Someone suggested taking a look at the direction of your fuel filter. Did that yield anything?
Fuel pressure. I'm wondering how the fuel press regulator is hooked up and it wasnt mentioned if you tested it.
Do these engines have a cold start injector?
I dont think the unusual exhaust finding relates. But one less thing to stress over.
I could definitely learn something here so if anything I said is off course, please set the record straight
Last edited by Cumminsguy1; 02-12-2019 at 04:51 PM.
02-12-2019, 08:04 PM
#24
Registered User
How long was the gas in the tank sitting? Maybe some fresh fuel??
Starter fluid spray test is also still on the table...even to see if it affects idle/stall.
Compression check perhaps?
Something is just missing or installed weird, I mean if it ran like this before the teardown, ok maybe not, but if didnt exist before, it has to be something. What exactly was torn down?
I hope you find out what is causing all the frustration.
Starter fluid spray test is also still on the table...even to see if it affects idle/stall.
Compression check perhaps?
Something is just missing or installed weird, I mean if it ran like this before the teardown, ok maybe not, but if didnt exist before, it has to be something. What exactly was torn down?
I hope you find out what is causing all the frustration.
02-13-2019, 04:00 AM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
How long was the gas in the tank sitting? Maybe some fresh fuel??
Starter fluid spray test is also still on the table...even to see if it affects idle/stall.
Compression check perhaps?
Something is just missing or installed weird, I mean if it ran like this before the teardown, ok maybe not, but if didnt exist before, it has to be something. What exactly was torn down?
I hope you find out what is causing all the frustration.
Starter fluid spray test is also still on the table...even to see if it affects idle/stall.
Compression check perhaps?
Something is just missing or installed weird, I mean if it ran like this before the teardown, ok maybe not, but if didnt exist before, it has to be something. What exactly was torn down?
I hope you find out what is causing all the frustration.
02-13-2019, 07:19 AM
#26
Registered User
Truck was sitting for 3 months I drained 90% of the gas specifically so it wouldn't go bad, put 10 gallons of fresh fuel in before start up. I pulled the motor put in new pistons/rings, freeze plugs, oil galley's cleaned, new main and rod bearings, dual row timing chain upgrade, 73lb valve springs, oversized valves and a real aggressive camshaft. The cam I installed says it's made to work with out ECU mods but I'm wondering if it's to aggressive letting in too much air Maybe?
ECU not shorted somewhere during the process? Doubtful if you had everything electrically disconnected. Not sure with ecu mods, but something to investigate if no other findings.
02-13-2019, 03:05 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
So I replaced my TPS about 100 miles before the rebuild so i haven't even thought of that as a possibly however I'm wondering if it's possible I got a faulty TPS and it went bad while it was sitting?
02-13-2019, 05:05 PM
#30
Registered User
Thread Starter
Alright I think I Lost the crowd but here's another update for documentation. Tonight I noticed a whistle noise almost as if it had a turbo on it and it would get slightly loader as I pushed on the gas, I'm leaning more towards having a bad distributor cap as this one is old and after doing som ed more reading it looks as if a bad distributor cap can cause stalling, high pitched noises, and Bogging 
Last edited by Cumminsguy1; 02-13-2019 at 05:07 PM.
02-13-2019, 05:31 PM
#31
Still reading the thread. Just running out of ideas of what is going on.
Can you do a vacuum test on the engine? You can plug in at the three way port.
At least test the TPS because that could very well be your problem.
Can you do a vacuum test on the engine? You can plug in at the three way port.
At least test the TPS because that could very well be your problem.
02-13-2019, 05:33 PM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
how would I go about doing a vacuum test? Got my interest there as I have never seen or heard of that being done but would definitely like to do it
02-13-2019, 06:09 PM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
I was not aware I had an aftermarket regulator, the guy that owned the truck before me must have replaced it. The only things I replaced as far as the fuel system goes is the Injectors, Filter, and fuel rail.
02-13-2019, 06:14 PM
#36
Registered User
REPLACE the fuel pressure regulator.... it's not an expensive part, easy to replace, and just might fix your problem ..
02-13-2019, 06:17 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
I'll get one ordered right now and let you all know how it works out
02-13-2019, 06:31 PM
#38
For what ever reason the Toyota fuel regulator has dropped dramatically in price. They were around the $140 mark in 2017. Now you can get one for $90 plus shipping.
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.c...bC1sNC1nYXM%3D
https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.c...bC1sNC1nYXM%3D
02-21-2019, 05:40 PM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
still haven't solved the issue, simply took a few weeks off to try to get a "fresh start" here's a video from this afternoon of how it runs with the TPS unplugged.... any ideas?
