92DLX

Hey guys,

This forum has been indispensable in my research and purchasing of a 3rd gen p/u. I recently got a 92 standard cab 4x4 with its original 22re. 100k on the truck and motor.

I'm hoping to get this truck ready for camping, mountain biking and light wheeling this summer and am starting by trying to figure out an engine rattle.
Here is a video of it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQ8hX...ature=youtu.be

The rattle occurs only through midrange rpms (no tach) and mostly occurs when the engine isn't under much load. You can hear the noise occurring consistently starting around 38-40 seconds of the above video. I think I've ruled out exhaust rattle and the alternator, since it sounds like it is coming from that side of the engine, so now I am ready to move on down the list. This doesn't sound to me like a knocking so much as a rattle (like a spray can). I've never owned or worked on one of these engines before and am an amateur mechanic at best.

Here is what I know so far:
Unlikely exhaust or alternator. Could be another rattle but I can't find it.
I don't know what the state of the timing chain may be.
The engine has plenty of power and doesn't overheat.
It happens independent of the position of the clutch or transmission.

I wonder if anyone has an advice on a good next diagnostic step?
Anyone recognize the noise?

Thanks!

sebastianholmes

Mine did this. Then it spun a bearing less than a week ago. check the oil. like now. then change it.

Roark

The noise doesn't seem as noticeable in comparison to the rest of the ticking going on. If the situation permits, I'd suggest tearing into that engine. It's relatively easy to work on. I'd check out the camshaft for wear/tear, as well as the timing chain and guide. According to the online fsm, the rattle/pinging can result from a faulty water pump, so I'd check out everything on the front end, as well.

Finding the exact problem is the main concern, but with an engine that old, replacing or refreshing parts is always beneficial.

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

92DLX

Update: oil level and quality seem fine.

Took off valve cover and both timing chain guides are intact. Plastic ones, don't know if they are original or not.

Anything else I should look at while the cover is off?

Roark

Make sure everything is on tight. Maybe just a loose piece rattling? The dampeners and tensioner may have come loose.

saltandgranite

So both plastic guides are intact? That's surprising, it really sounds like you have a snapped guide. While you have the valve cover off, adjust your valves. A tick can sometimes be this, but it's usually a bit more rhythmic than yours. Yours sounds more like there's something in there bouncing around. Here's a great video on how to adjust your valves:

92DLX

I'll adjust the valves tomorrow. Will need to get gauges first.

Chickenman

Is your timing chain loose? I'm with salt on this one. Sounds like the chain, but I have been wrong before.

92DLX

How do I check tension and/or wear on the chain?

I have a Chiltons to refer to but it sometimes assumes I know more than I do and the photos are pretty dark so distilled advice and better visuals (like the video above) are really helpful.

I will say it does sort of sound like it is coming from the drivers side roughly where the chain is under the cover. I'll post video showing the chain guides tomorrow. Still photography didn't capture them well.

Chickenman

I know what you mean.

Maybe you have a bad tensioner and the guides are okay for now? I define loose as loose, if you can get in there and wiggle it a fair amount thats loose. The chain should be taught.

I know that those are terrible descriptions, so Ill try to get a video or picture of my timing chain for you cause mine is loose and it rattles bad. (Hence its parked in the garage waiting for the timing kit to come in the mail.)

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

You have an exhaust leak, black crap on the outside of header pipes 3-4. The rattle is the oneway valve ontop of the valve cover bouncing on the heatshield/VSV mounting bracket(black and yellow doodad, center screen left side). Got something swinging around off the back of the airchamber also.

And Yeah you might could do for a valve adjustment.

92DLX

I think you may be right about the exhaust leak.

The rattle isn't anything on the heat shield ontop of the valve cover though. I ran it without the shield attached and with the various hoses etc. pulled back: same chatter at same rpm range.

Here is a video of me wiggling the timing chain on a cold engine (I'm applying almost no force, just flicking my finger lightly):

saltandgranite

Your chain looks a little loose, but I don't think that's what you're hearing. And yes, your guides are intact. Adjust those valves, that could very well be what it is. As a rule, 22R/E valves do need adjusting every so often. I just rebuilt my top end and the valves needed adjusting after 5k. But, again, my "tapping" sounded a little different than yours. Someone here will know what that is. Give it a day (but adjust those valves in the meantime).

BamaYota1

Hate to tell you, but it's rod bearings. If you haven't scarred the journal, you may be able to replace bearings, but rebuild soon.

92DLX

I adjusted the valves to factory specs. If anything they were tighter than factory.

Unfortunately I think they'd been intentionally tightened because now I have a regular tick in addition to the rattle that I'm trying to track down. It is sounding more and more like a diesel.

Here is a video:
Okay, time to research next steps and return valve adjustment to where it was before.

92DLX

One more thing: neither knock seems to change at all when I take out wires to spark plugs one at a time.

saltandgranite

How's the exhaust manifold look?

BamaYota1

You should adjust the valves to .007 intake and .011 exhaust. Don't go any tighter or you might burn a valve. These engines are not quiet. They sound more like a sewing machine.

I know you don't want to believe it, but it is your rod bearings. Believe me, I had the same exact thing happen last summer.

There are several things people will tell you this is: piston hitting head, wrist pins, timing chain, and valve lash. Some people will insist it is a rocker hitting the valve cover. It is not.

I can tell you when the noise comes even. It happens when you are at slight throttle between 2500-3000 Rpms. It will also do it when you rev in neutral. It will also rattle like hell when you first start it ip. You can also make the noise almost go away if you retard the timing. However, it will get worse, and you won't be able to make it stop.

You can try and switch to a 20w50 oil to keep the damage to a minimum, and this will quiet it down, but it won't stop. You will have to redo at least the crank to make it go away. And why would you just redo the crank if you are going to do that much work? Chances are, the worn bearings have started to produce uneven wear in the cylinder. Or you have oval rod caps now, so no bearing will last. Get where this is going?

You have two choices. You can rebuild now and possibly save your $200 crank from being ruined, or you can say screw that motor and buy a crate. Neither one is particularly cheap, but is necessary.

I'm sorry man. I bought my first Yota and less than a month later I was staring at this same problem. It sucks, but there is nothing you can do. Don't waste your money throwing parts at it, when you will need the cash for rebuild/crate.

92DLX

Exhaust headers were installed 2 PO's ago. Bolts all seem tight but there is a leak as mentioned above. Not sure where the leak is but 3-4 tubes are coroded.

Let's assume I do need a rebuild. How much am I looking at to have it disassembled, rebuilt, and reinstalled? I don't really know that I want to take the time to do it myself. I'd probably want it done in or near Portland Oregon.

BamaYota1

It really depends on the shop you find to do the work. Call a couple and see what they tell you. Chances are it will be between $1500-$2500. You can get the parts from engnbldr. http://www.engnbldr.com/ He is in Portland, and he is who I would call first thing. He is one if not the biggest expert on these engines. You could probably take it by his place to let him hear it. He can definitely point you in the right direction as to how to proceed.
(503) 257-7947
engnbldr@engnbldr.com
I would at least send him an email. He will write you back.