I had a new clutch installed by local shop a few K miles ago. The old/ original got about 170k before it started slipping and needed to be replaced. It all seems to work fine but now I always have trouble shifting into reverse. Like the gears grind unless I make a real effort to push the clutch pedal absolutely all the way down. Seems like double clutching can help. It ultimately shifts into reverse and works but it just doesn’t seem quite “right” to me. I didn’t used to have make such an effort to get into reverse without the gears grinding. Does this sound normal and is there some adjustment I should/coild ask the shop to make to alleviate this? I’m concerned I may be causing some damage to the gears inside the tranny with this grinding.

Thanks for any advice.

 

Hey, I have a few of these trucks- 1995 pickup, 86 4Runner, 81 pickup, and all of them often require a little more effort going to reverse. On occasion, my 95 will force me to re-press the peddle and act like reverse isn’t there.. “double clutch”, and then go in smooth with no grinding at all. I’m no expert, but I wouldn’t worry, unless the grinding is consistent each time, even when being aware.. then I’d suspect an issue. It may have something to do with design and preventing reverse when at speed and traveling forward. The last thing we want to do while traveling forward at 70 mph is to catch reverse, that’d suck.

 

Thanks for your reply. I should have included my vehicle info. 89 pickup, 4x4, 22RE, 5 speed manual, 180K miles. Bought new.

So, if I understand correctly, there is no clutch pedal travel adjustment, or other adjustment that would have an effect on this?

 

Put it in 1st gently nudge it forward, just barely, then go to reverse... works every time.

 

Thanks I will try that!

 

Mine goes into reverse like it was butter. Super smooth, no into-first-gear-first shenanigans required. I wonder if your clutch it dragging a bit since the behavior changed since clutch replacement.

 

thanks blueman! Forgive my ignorance but , what is clutch dragging?

 

"clutch dragging" means it's not fully disengaged and allowing some torque to make it from the flywheel to the transmission input shaft. Reverse gear generally doesn't have synchros, and is more sensitive to this.

 

cool. is that something I could ask the shop (that put the clutch in) to adjust? thanks again!

 

Ask them to make sure the clutch is fully bled and that the pedal is properly adjusted.

 

very helpful and thanks! I will ask them to do that

 

Peddle can be adjusted. Both position and engagement point. See factory service manual for how to and measurements from the floor.

 

You paid good money for a clutch job, give them the chance to make it right before you try anything.
Tell them what's going on and ask if they resurfaced the flywheel when they did the work.
Here's what could contribute to shifting issues:
flywheel not perfectly flat
clutch disc, flywheel or pressure plate warped.
air in the lines
improper pedal adjustment (not getting full throw)
loose bolts (slave cylinder)

 

Thank you. I know the owner of the shop and I trust him. But, he has guys working for him who I don’t know and not sure he has eagle eye on everything. It’s a busy shop.

The flywheel was sent out for professional resurfacing. I will be taking the trick in for some scheduled maintenance soon amd will bring this all up. I wanted to get a bit educated about it before discussing with him and you all have provided me with some good info and advice. I will follow up with what happens.

Thanks!!

 

Hi:
Do not overlook the possibility that the bracket (under the dash) that the pedal is mounted on (swings on) could be cracked.
Hi mileage vehicles have been known to have this bracket start to crack in the upper clutch pivot mount area.
This will cause the crack to flex open slightly when the pedal is depressed, and not give the full throw needed.
This crack could have been there for a long time, and the new clutch, maybe requiring some extra system pressure, now aggravates the cracked condition.
Forward gears, being synchronized, and used while moving will mask the symptoms. but non synchro reverse, used while completely stopped, will complain loudly.
Use a flashlight , inspection mirror, and take some contortionist lessons, to inspect this area of the bracket, while a loved one you completely trust, actuates the pedal.
The crack isn't usually very large, but probably can be seen opening slightly upon use.
That is all it takes to cause the condition you have described.
Good Luck.
Art

 

Did they replace the clutch fluid and bled the system? If I'm not mistaken, it's like my '93 with a clutch master cylinder and slave unit.

 

Will check on all that also. Thanks!

 

Follow up. The shop owner (whos first vehicle was a truck like mine) said he adjusted the push rod at the master cylinder. It seems to have fixed the problem but I have not driven it a whole lot yet. So far so good.

Thanks again to you all fro your expertise and helpful advice!

 

Thank you for posting your outcome.