So whats this huge army base version of craigslist? Im looking for a Toyota pickup or a 4runner that needs an engine. You got that for a steal.

 

I called them and for the engine, harness and an ecu that would be from a different vehicle would be $1600 I would prefer to have everything come from the same vehicle. And the Army version of CR is http://lewisyardsales.com/. Well I leave for FL for some family business and my 84 4runner will be up for sale. I would like to do the swap for under $2k so I have money left over for possibly a lift kit, tires and maybe an Aussie locker for the rear. I am hoping to get around $4k for my runner long shot but I am in no hurry to sell it or do the engine swap neither vehicle are needed.

 

Hmm not seeing much on there now. I'm looking for a truck that I can swap my 3.4 into. Wanna sell yours? Haha I mighta actually just found a 4runner but I would rather have another truck I think

 

I wouldn't sell the truck unless it was for a profit and since you know how much I paid that would be hard.

 

I wouldn't spend my worst enemy's money on rebuilding a 3.0.

No doubt, thought, or hesitation should go into taking on the swap. Its not difficult at all and the gains are incredible in every way.

 

Haha yeah that does make it hard but I might be able to give you 1000 but I'd need to free up some driveway room by selling my audi a4 quattro first.

 

PM me the info on the A4 got a guy at work looking for one

 

Ok so i am going to attempt the 3.4 swap I have been looking for an engine and I think I found one. Seen a guy or Craigslist parting out a 98 or 99 4runner just hoping it is a 5spd if so i asked him how much for the engine, ecu and complete wire harness I want ecu to engine nothing that has been cut up. After I remove a few things from my 4runner it is going up for sale. I have search around a bit but didn't really find any solutions on wiring up the 3.4. If I have the complete harness what else is there?

 

In a nutshell, you're trying to mate the 3.4's harness with the dash harness behind your passenger side kickpanel, where your current computer resides.

There should be two large plugs there. The goal is to map the function of the wires and then cross-reference them to the matching functions on the 3.4 harness.

Your best source of info will be Toyota's TechInfo site https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F

Pay for the subscription and download as many manuals for your truck and the 3.4 as you can. This will be the best money you spend on the swap.

 

I never have understood the obsession with swapping out 3.0's for 3.4's. But...I may be bias since I have personally put aournd 400,000 miles on two different 3VZE motors in each of my two 4Runners. So...yes, I am one of the goofballs that actually likes the 3.0 Liter motor and, as such, I specifically searched the Eastern U.S. for a really nice '95 a couple of years back. I did this SPECIFICALLY for the purpose of staying wih the 3.0L motor. As somone mentioned earlier in the thread...it's a simply motor that one quickly becomes an expert on.

Properly maintained, the 3VZE is a proven power island. The only true criticism that can be levied on this motor is that it is a tad underpowered (and, also a bit noisy.) My son and I are swapping the motor in our '88 and there was never any talk of going with anything other than a rebuilt 3.0L. We simply didn't have any problems with the old one, easily surpassing 300K with nothing more sophisticated than a valve job at 190K.

I did replace the head gaskets on that motor at around 250K miles. So, I did not dodge that bullet, so-to-speak. But, what I have since found out is that most of the 'head gasket problems' associated with the 3VZE are actually caused by excessive exhaust back-pressure due to a clogged CAT. What this does is cause hot spots in the head(s) which, in turn, result in a head that warps ever so slightly as the motor reaches OT. Eventually, of course, a gap remains and gases start blowing across the gasket when the motor is started.

So...whatever motor you go with...you may want to swap out the CAT and the O2 sensor while you are at it.

 

Just curious, Do you have the same clearence issues in a truck that a 4Runner has with fitting a 3.4? If so, Lunnzz, you might want to check out 4crawler.com for a body lift. Got mine for less than $300 and that was with the new bushings and heavy duty hardware.

 

Yes same clearance issues with the 4runner and truck where you need either a 1-2 inch body lift or some hood mods. I have a hood that I was going to use as my practice hood to cut but I'm thinking I might just throw a body lift on my swap now.

I have a complete 2000 Tacoma that I'm pulling the 3.4 and the e-locker 3rd member out of to swap into a 1991 4runner that I just bought for $500. I'm just starting my swap this weekend I'm waiting on my dad to get back from Aruba so I can hopefully go pick up his engine hoist and engine stand. Feel free to come by and take a look whenever, I haven't really done much yet. Just started tearing into the Tacoma last night but it was getting dark.

So why doesn't anybody ever share the info and diagrams that they get off the techinfo site?

Here are some links that I saved. Time for you to study.
http://www.andrewzook.com/content/view/22/48/1/2/
http://www.offroadsolutions.com/tech.html#engine
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160/

 

I edited for brevity. The 3.0, simply put, was a poor design. As has been said before, it has all the power of a 4 cylinder with the fuel economy of a V8. I had the 3.0 over a year and with 3 of us in the truck and some luggage, it struggled in the mountains. I had to downshift to 3rd gear to maintain speed (and I'm not talking about 60 or 70 miles per hour, but enough to keep with the flow of traffic). It got terrible fuel economy and I had no desire to become an expert on it.

It isn't a "proven power island". It is gutless. Period.

My 3.4, turning 33" tires, rarely has to be downshifted to maintain speed on grades. If I do downshift, I can accelerate up hills in 4th that the 3.0 could barely make in 3rd gear. Had I kept the 31" tires, I wouldn't even need to downshift.

Oh, and I get 10-15% better mileage, too.

The 3.4 is win-win. Better power, better mileage. People who have never done this swap or driven a swapped vehicle shouldn't extol the virtues of the 3.0 until they have.

That's just my two cents, though.

 

I think it's because there never seems to be two swaps that are the same. Mine was a '91 4Runner/'97 Taco, both manual trannies. I haven't seen anyone do the same swap in terms of years and transmissions yet. A lot of changes occured between model years and, in some cases, even during the same model year. This site doesn't allow posting of large pdf files, either. That said, I have no problem sharing the info I have, but I also don't want to be blamed if someone's swap goes badly because of said information.

 

PM me your address and I will be more than happy to stop by some time and give you a hand if you need it. I am going to Oregon tommrow (Sunday) with the family but I am off all day Monday and Tuesday. The more I learn the easier the swap will be for me so let me know.

J

 

To declare a motor a "poor design" without any specifics as to which aspect is "poor" is an underwhelming argument. It is correct that I have not swapped one out for a 3.4 - however, there was no compelling reason to do do. There is nothing wrong with down-shifting to get up a hill when going through the mountains. But, if that bothers a person, then this motor will certainly drive you nuts. Again, however, the fact that I have put over 300,000 miles on the '88, including many a road trip and lots of back-woods abuse is a datum point not easily ignored. I could list many 'poorly designed' motors -- the Dodge slant six, the Pontiac 250 CID six cylinder, etc., etc. -- no way I would lump the 3VZE in with those turkeys.

 

Restrictive intake. Vacuum lines out the wazoo. Lousy head gaskets. Very little power. Poor fuel economy. Crappy exhaust manifolds that fry valves, especially on the 6th cylinder.

You're right...what's wrong with that design?

I had a 3.0. I have a 3.4. There is no going back to that underengineered lump of cast iron for me. I would do another swap in a heartbeat.

But don't listen to me. Talk to the dozens on here that have done the swap and they'll agree.

 

Come on...you can never have too many vacuum lines.

Like I said up front, I am one of the 'goofballs' that actually likes the 3VZE. Sorry that causes you so much heartburn. Prilosec does the trick for me.

 

I may be swapping a 3.4 into my 4runner but I daily drive an extended cab pickup with the 3.0. I work as a carpenter so its loaded full of tools and wood often. I have been surprised with how much power that truck has for having an engine that everyone says is a dog. It definetly gets out of its own way without a problem. It actually scared and shocked me the other day when I found out that it has a top speed governor. Sure they have their problems but at least you don't have to rebuild them every 100,000 miles like a domestic. My truck has 230,000 miles on it and it looks like the only work done has been a head gasket. Even though I like my 3.0 I'm excited for this 3.4 swap. More power, reliability and gas mileage are always a good thing.

 

Well, in a pickup it might be a bit better without the extra 300-400 lbs of sheet metal and glass being packed around, but ask any of the guys who have swapped a 3.4 into the pickup and they'll tell you the same...the truck becomes an absolute blast to drive.

I might even supercharge mine at some point...you know, because more is always better