dylansmith17

1995 4x4 pickup ext cab, 3VZE, manual

How do I get around having to push the clutch in to start the engine? I'm looking for a TEMPORARY bypass, I don't want to actually cut any wires. I'm planning on doing some compression tests and don't want to have to ask a buddy/girlfriend to sit inside the cab to start the engine every time I test a new cylinder. I have one of those remote start trigger things so I can just do it all myself while standing under the hood. But the clutch... is there a button somewhere on the pedal that I can tape down? What do you guys do? Cinderblock in front of the pedal?

My 3.0 blew head gaskets about 10k miles ago and I'd like to install headers to get rid of the dreaded crossover pipe. Before I sink ANY money into this engine I want to make sure I don't have any burnt exhaust valves. Truck runs fine an has plenty of power (for a 3.0 at least), I can haul motorcycles over Donner Pass no problem, etc., but it has a rough idle (idles low at 400-500 rpm), and on two different occasions the check engine light has come on while accelerating in 5th gear up a hill. I don't have one of those code readers so I've never checked it out really, just unplugged the battery and the light went away both times. I took it to a shop to a get leak-down test done for peace of mind and they looked at me like I had three heads, said the truck was running top (test drove it for like 2 min), even hooked up their California smog stuff to the exhaust and said the numbers looked absolutely perfect.

Am I paranoid like they told me I am?

millball

If you use your remote starter device the way it was intended, you don't have to bypass anything.

One remote starter lead to battery positive cable and the other lead to the starter solenoid energizing spade and..... Viola.. she cranks when you push the button.

Make sure that the brake is set, the tranny in neutral, the coil wire disconnected, and the throttle body propped wide open.

And for sure, observe any and all other safety precautions that I may have overlooked.

scope103

I'm going to guess you've never used your remote starter switch. Think about WHERE you are going to attach it. What side of the Clutch Start switch would that be? In the ordinary case, you connect the remote starter between 12v (battery terminal) and the solenoid connector ON the starter. If you haven't learned this already, it's pretty difficult to just get in the same zip code as the 3VZE starter. So here's an easier way: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...switch-287859/

WAIT! The Clutch Start switch is there to keep you from doing a bone-head move and cranking the engine with it in gear. Can you remember to put it in neutral AND put on the parking brake? Otherwise, you might be lying under the truck a long time before your buddy shows up.

Well, now's the time you're gonna have to come up with the big bucks and get one: https://www.staples.com/Staples-1-Si...product_525881 (You don't need a whole box.) That's right, the SST described here http://web.archive.org/web/201211190...85diagnosi.pdf is just what I've linked to.

dylansmith17

Ok, thanks for the comments everybody. I have used this remote starter many times, though not on the truck in question. I cannot tell you why, but when I used to use this, daily, on my girlfriend's old VW Cabrio with a busted ignition switch, it WOULD NOT start without the clutch fully depressed. I know I know the theory on where I'm putting the leads, etc. I cannot tell you why, but that car wouldn't start with just the leads hooked up and the trigger depressed.

Guess I should have tried it on my truck before I wrote this though.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Well of course the vehicle will only crank and not start if hooked to the starter solenoid .

The ignition switch not being on no fuel pump or ignition

The clutch start switch is one of the first things I remove some things are just not needed after years of putting vehicles in neutral and applying the parking brake