Yes the 22re has a 9.5:1 CR but that's not much of an issue, you just have to retard spark, run 93 octane, grab a rising rate FPR (fuel pressure regulator), and use WMI (water/methanol injection) to prevent any type of detonation and you should be good. All of this assumes that the bottom end is nice and healthy. And if one is gunning for say 200hp, with an AIT cooler you dont need much boost at all from a properly chosen turbo.

 

I havehad an NWOR header on my 22RE with a Toyota gasket for the last two years and no leaks whatsoever., I would highly recommend it.

Robb

 

THAT was the tough part. I ended up borrowing an air pressure sensor from school. Dunno how much they cost, but I'm sure if you go to college your school will have one and they should let you borrow it. Anyhoo, I just drilled a hole big enough for the sensor, before the cat, and messured the air pressure with all different washers. Then I just used the washer that gave me a number close to what the cat's air pressure was. Not the most accurate way in the world, but it works!

 

if the air pressure upstream of the cat is the same iwth a cat or washer, what benefit is there to not running a cat? Id think one would just get a free flowing cat and call it a day.

But did you notice any power gain with a washer whose inner diameter was larger than 2.15"?

 

Well, if anyone else is like me, then they love to do things themselves. Plus, being a college student on a budget, you try to save money wherever you can. Lacking backpressure but don't like cats? Well, why spend hard earned beer money on a free flowing cat when all it takes is $0.04 for a washer, a drill, a jam saw, and a welder, and your good to go!

You know... I did notice a little better power with an i.d. bigger than 2.15", but then the air pressure started dropping below the with-cat-air-pressure. But I'm not sure what the optimal backpressure is, so I just went with the same number that running it with a cat gave me.

Even though you're getting the same a.p. as you would with a cat, you do NOT get remotely the same sound. I think it sounds MUCH better. Sounds alot like my cousin's F250 with a V10 running Hedman Headers true dualed (did it myself ) with 3.5" straight back to Super 70 Series Flowmasters. That thing is LLOOUUUDDDD. But anyhoo, mine SOUNDS alot like that, just not on the same magnitude lol (tested: can hear him coming from 3/4 mile away)...

I can't even imagine how much louder and deeper my banger can get with headers. Well, best start buying keystone instead of bud

 

So, if the flow is similar at 2.15" to not having a cat at all, and the entire idea of installing a new exhaust is to improve flow, wouldn't it have made sense to just run a 2.25 or better pipe with no restricting washers at all?

I have my cat removed and right behind the O2 sensor it goes to 2.25" pipe to a magnaflow muffler, then the tailpipe is 2.5" out the back. I think it runs awesome and sounds great. It's definitely what my truck needed...

It would be interesting if you could dyno the truck with different washers in it. That would be the real only way to tell which was best.

 

Lol I think I must have done a bad job of explaining. But no, with that restricting washer with an inner diameter of 2.15", the flow is similar to HAVING a cat installed. But with a washer installed, you don't get "exhast dampening" or a reduction in the tone or sound level. It's just there to keep the engine running good with the correct backpressure. So with 3" pipes all the way, with nothing to hamper the exhast but a 1/4" thick washer, going to a magnaflow 3" in / 3" out muffler, you get an exhast sounding like no other 4banger in existance.

Yeah, would definitely be nice to put er on a dyno.

 

I was assuming the bottom end was showing its age. I'm sure mine proabably has seen better days, but there's no way to know without looking. At least that I know of.

 

3" exhaust with 2.15 washer hole, eh?
Creative if nothing else...

 

I dont know how you drive it that way... I had open header, then open header to a 2" pipe for a few days unitl I got to the exhaust shop, then header and flowmaster 50, no cat. It was so stinkin loud, and without a muffler it was anything but a deep sound, its loud and raspy... I dont even think it sounds cool. I did add a 12" glasspack to the mix and it kept the flowmaster tone, but was much quieter.. but still loud...

Now I run a LC header, magnaflow hiflow-cat (50 bucks), and a 60 series flowmaster, sounds sweet mellow for cruising but loud enough when i get on it.

 

Yeah it's a tad on the loud side. And I dunno what kind of magnaflows I've got, pulled it off a salvaged dodge diesel. Has offset in and center out, and it was 3.5" in and out, so I had to weld me a reducer so I could put my 3" pipes on it. Was thinkin about running 3.5" but would have had to buy me some more pipe and use the mandrel (which at the time I still learning how to use), so I was like reducers would be a helluva lot easier hah.

 

Im just curious to see now if you could use the AP sensor thingy upstream of the washer and get on a dyno and do some swapping of washers from 1.5" center hole all teh way to 3" straight and see which ones did what in terms of HP and TQ. I think it would be an interesting experiment!

 

Now that'd be fun. I'll probably do that if I ever plan on redoing my exhast train. Cause it'd be a real PITA to cut through the steel I welded around the washer slot that I had to cut to even get that sucker in there. Plus I'd have to try and redrill where I JB Welded close the spot where I origionally drilled a hole pre washer for the AP sensor... Maybe sometime after midterms. Startin to get a little busy this time of year. But yeah I'm the afro-riggin king according to my friends. Usually joke that my truck is held together with bailing wire, zip ties, a hope, and a prayer haha.

 

You explained yourself perfectly I think...

My question was about reducing backpresure as opposed to maintaining the amount the stock system provides.

You talk about maintaining proper pressure and such, but you are assuming that the factory cat provided the correct pressure in the first place.

Not only that but I'd be hesitant to think that in a stock 1 7/8" exhaust system that the stock cat provides actually less backpressure that the stock pipe feeding it. But if that were true, then surely just replacing the cat with a piece of 2.25" pipe would provide a small drop in backpressure, which we are looking for anyway, and a slight increase in flow and horsepower.

But without a dyno to test out my theory, it's just as subjective as yours...

I think there is a lot of misinformation floating around these forums about exhaust and backpressure. The only way to know for sure is to dyno after every change, and who the hell wants to pay to dyno a 100 hp slow piece of crap like the 22re.

 

Please put a cat on your truck. It is just plain selfish to poison the air for your hobby. Plus, it should run better with a cat. You want hot exhaust up by hte engine and all the way through. And you may want to read this, paying attention to the later part were EB saw dyno showing the stock maniflod and 2" pipe to teh cat and 2.25 behind had better or equal dyno numbers compared to using headers.
http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showfl...&o=365&fpart=1

 

not to mention its about 25K in fines for removing it.. even in states that arent california.. its a federal thing.