Need Tips on changeing oil filter 1988 4X4
#1
Need Tips on changeing oil filter 1988 4X4
I can see the filter from the bottom on the 22re..How to get to it? pull the wheel? remove rubber splash guard and go in from the side...any tricks out there?
Last edited by rworegon; 06-15-2015 at 01:30 AM.
#5
Do you have air conditioning? I'm just wondering because I have a 91 without AC. It has the 22RE and I'm running a filter that's much bigger than the large OEM Toyota 90915-YZZD3 filter and I can still take it off from the top.
I don't remove it by hand and I don't use a cap type filter wrench. I use a large pair of pliers or an adjustable oil filter wrench. It's a little tight but doable.
Just watch out for the oil PSI wire as it's fairly close to the filter.
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#9
Nope it is for american roads....I took it to a mechanic that remove a protection pan and got it loosed by hand and finally got it started.From the top..By feel...There is a 5/8" rubber hose that must be pushed against to get the proper position to start threading...Took him over a hour and he had an auto lift.. Offered him an extra $10 and he turned it down...
#11
I was in the middle of changing my oil and filter when I last replied.
I think all of us 22RE owners are having a hard time figuring out why you couldn't do it from the top. Maybe an aftermarket addition in that area?
A picture is worth a thousand words.
I think all of us 22RE owners are having a hard time figuring out why you couldn't do it from the top. Maybe an aftermarket addition in that area?
A picture is worth a thousand words.
Last edited by Odin; 06-14-2015 at 06:13 AM.
#12
4 10mm bolts... So that's why mine doesn't have that panel. Somebody probably thought it was a pain to remove so they thought it was unnecessary and left it off. I'd rather keep it in place to have a little more splash protection in that area.
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This whole thread.... I'm confused.
I always remove the front skid plate. Tons of room that way. it's only 4 bolts. I think that's what the op was talking about. I'm sure you could do it differently but that's the way I've been doing it for 10+years.
I always remove the front skid plate. Tons of room that way. it's only 4 bolts. I think that's what the op was talking about. I'm sure you could do it differently but that's the way I've been doing it for 10+years.
#14
Odin...please send the picture of the aftermarket
please send the picture of the aftermarket...I remember an after market that made changing filter on my chevy 350 a pleasure....Charlie
#15
I was requesting a picture from you. I really want to see what's in the way and I'm sure there are others who want to see it as well.
If you have problems with the stock filter I'm guessing it's the length. You might try the short Toyota 90915-YZZD1 but if you do much driving in dirt or dusty conditions you'll want to change it more often. The YZZD3 is the same diameter but longer.
The aftermarket stuff I've ran will only make it worse because they're both wider and longer.
If you have problems with the stock filter I'm guessing it's the length. You might try the short Toyota 90915-YZZD1 but if you do much driving in dirt or dusty conditions you'll want to change it more often. The YZZD3 is the same diameter but longer.
The aftermarket stuff I've ran will only make it worse because they're both wider and longer.
Last edited by Odin; 06-14-2015 at 12:44 PM.
#18
Odd's are good that the K&N is somewhere between the length of the YZZD1 and YZZD3 filters. Believe it or not if you cross reference the stock Toyota filters to get a K&N it isn't a good choice as the Toyota filter offers more filter media for it's size and it probably has a better anti-drainback valve. The anti-drainback valve design is important for these engines to reduce wear and tear during cold starts insuring instant oil delivery to the valvetrain and helping to lower noise from that area.
As mentioned the 90915-YZZD3 is just a longer version of the YZZD1.
Recently I've been using the Baldwin B2 and the Motorcraft FL-1A (B2 and FL-1A are almost identical in size), like I said they are wider and longer.
When I changed the B2 filter yesterday I discovered the pliers I have (ChannelLock 440 https://www.channellock.com/440-Straight-Jaw-Plier.aspx) didn't work as well on that size of filter because it's wider. The jaws could open to that diameter but they weren't long enough to get a really good grip. Instead I used my old jaw type oil filter wrench like the OEM 25415 available from just about any auto parts store and it worked better. http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-gar...ch/344315_0_0/
I'm not joking when I say that was the first time I've used it because I have a few others that have always made filter changes on different vehicles easier.
I'll take the easy way for this please.
From what I remember I was able to get my short YZZG1 (same size as YZZD1) off from the top with about the same amount of difficulty with the same pair of pliers.
As mentioned the 90915-YZZD3 is just a longer version of the YZZD1.
Recently I've been using the Baldwin B2 and the Motorcraft FL-1A (B2 and FL-1A are almost identical in size), like I said they are wider and longer.
When I changed the B2 filter yesterday I discovered the pliers I have (ChannelLock 440 https://www.channellock.com/440-Straight-Jaw-Plier.aspx) didn't work as well on that size of filter because it's wider. The jaws could open to that diameter but they weren't long enough to get a really good grip. Instead I used my old jaw type oil filter wrench like the OEM 25415 available from just about any auto parts store and it worked better. http://www.autozone.com/shop-and-gar...ch/344315_0_0/
I'm not joking when I say that was the first time I've used it because I have a few others that have always made filter changes on different vehicles easier.
I'll take the easy way for this please.
From what I remember I was able to get my short YZZG1 (same size as YZZD1) off from the top with about the same amount of difficulty with the same pair of pliers.
Last edited by Odin; 06-14-2015 at 06:11 PM.
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I find it easy to use my left hand and leaning from the front to get the filter. I really cant see anything but just do it by feel.
If you are having a tough time with the oil filter, you are going to have a worse time with the fuel filter. Depending on what year it is or how it is set up, it makes a difference.
If you are having a tough time with the oil filter, you are going to have a worse time with the fuel filter. Depending on what year it is or how it is set up, it makes a difference.
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The fuel filter was a particular pain, but easy when you're tearing the whole thing d
And order of assembly sucked, put the filter on the bracket upside down and then before the cooling line to the heater, @#@*&%@!!!!
And no I didn't look at the arrow on the filter, woulda, coulda, and shoulda..
My first time, won't be making that mistake again..
As far as the oil filter, can't figure out what the problem is?
It's there in the picture, reach in and grab it..
Having a 3 inch BL and 235x10.5's, I'd have to get on a step ladder to get in from the front, going in over the RF wheel is simple straight access, unless overtightened.
Gasket touch plus 3/4th turn only.
I have had to stab a couple with a screwdriver before, what a mess!!
And no I didn't look at the arrow on the filter, woulda, coulda, and shoulda..
My first time, won't be making that mistake again..
As far as the oil filter, can't figure out what the problem is?
It's there in the picture, reach in and grab it..
Having a 3 inch BL and 235x10.5's, I'd have to get on a step ladder to get in from the front, going in over the RF wheel is simple straight access, unless overtightened.
Gasket touch plus 3/4th turn only.
I have had to stab a couple with a screwdriver before, what a mess!!