Ok guys, as some of you know one of my students picked up a 91 toyota pickup 22re 5-speed 4x4. It needed a timing kit, so we decided to do the timing kit, water pump, oil pump, head gasket and head bolts while we were in there.

Put it all back together and she was running pretty good. Only issue was that upon trying to put the EGR back on, he broke the tube right at the nut that connects the two EGR pieces back together. From the intake to the head. No big deal, so we replaced it with an extra one I had laying around. This worked but it did not have the threaded hole for the EGR Temp sensor. So we inserted a 10k ohm resistor in the temp sensor Female end.

Still everything was ok. THen started getting a code 31. So we just figured that it was the Old EGR We put on that I had.

Went to the U-pull it and picked up another EGR from a 91 22re and went to put it on. He ended up breaking a bolt off in the upper intake that holds the EGR tube to it. So we had to remove the upper intake to extract the broken bolt.

Fast forward to yesterday. Fire it up, and getting a Code 31 still and now a code 41. Prior to any of this, the TPS was working perfect and would put the vehicle into Base timing mode when E1 and T1 were jumped. It was running well.

Now we have the code 41 and it does not want to accelerate very well. It will idle all day long fairly smooth but as soon as you move the throttle platre it bogs and falls on its face and almost acts like a misfire.

So we did what anyone would do... Took TB off and checked the TPS. It tested out perfect. Set it up as per 4crawler and put it back on with still the same issue.

Since it is fairly easy to remove the TB, we removed it several times and redid the whole TPS process. We even swapped in a KNown good TPS that I grabbed a few weeks back with still the same result.

One thing that is weird is when I put the Timing light on without being jumpered to E1 and T1 the timing is right at 5Degrees BTDC like its already in Base timing mode. Its not advancing on its own like It should. As where My 85 is advanced to roughly 20 Degrees BTDC before jumpered.

We have checked and checked the TPS, the AFM, the EGR, the Coil. Also checked and rechecked all the vacuum lines and proper routing. Everything is where its supposed to be.

We are looking for some advice on what we are missing.

Anything would help.

Thanks guys.

 

I also forgot to mention that it is running very rich and the check engine light is now on permanently with the code 31.

I also checked to make sure that the Cold start injector was working properly and it is.

And also Ohmed out the Coolant temp sensor as per FSM and its also good.

 

Are there any loose connections (band clamps) on the air intake between the AFM and the throttle body?

 

All tight on the intake tube. I also checked out for leaks all around it with some carb cleaner.

 

I am looking in my manuals for other information. The EGR with the sensor in it is for a California model truck. Which computer do you have in this truck?

Just a note for a reminder for myself.

31 AFM Circuit
41 TPS Circuit

 

Its all stock. It should have the right ECM since it was running great before we took the intake off and put everything back together.

Its really weird. Its not advancing the timing when running. When hooking up the timing light without the jumper wire in its reading 5 degrees BTDC rather than around 20

 

One quick search I did was indicating a faulty igniter will cause those symptoms. Do you have a spare igniter assembly?

 

I saw that also, but do not have another ignitor assembly around. I just went to both the U-pull it yards over my lunch break and found nothing also.

I did run a few more tests with the AFM

Held the flapper open and turned the key on, and the fuel pump came on. Closed the flap and turned key on and it was off. So its working there.

However I tested the one in the truck and another one I have as per 4 crawlers site.

One in truck
0= 100.3
1= 297
2= 197
3= 279
4= 1.99
5= Infinite

Spare one I have
0= 100
1= 229
2= 179
3= 280
4= 2.24
5= Infinite

I also did the sweep tests as per 4crawlers site on them and both passed.

Swapped the spare in and its still having the same issue. Will not advance on its own and falls on its face under acceleration.

I am going to swap in a spare distributor that I have and also try and mess with the TPS again.

Thanks for all the help so far Terry.

Any and all advice is appreciated.

 

Ok guys, Just swapped in a known good distributor that I had at the shop. Still the same result with the timing not advancing, running rich, and falling on its face when under acceleration.

We are going to now look at the TPS again and try to make an adjustment while the vehicle is running.

 

You sure the dizzy isnt going in a tooth off?

I dont trust timing marks on a 22r at all. I usually time mine by ear and keep advancing it till i hear it pinging a bit driving then back it off a bit till it stops.

As many of these trucks that have been offroaded and abused...never look past the computer being geeked either...imagine most of these trucks have been half drowned at one point in thier lives by now.

 

I know you have tested the AFM but that is what it sounds like to me... When I unplug mine and accelerate to move the truck it will stall thesame way... I see you swapped it out and tested but...

I know this is not very helpful but... that is what it sounds like to me.

 

We checked the Distributor a few times. Its going in as it should. The weird thing is that it will not advance on its own. So under a load it falls on its face.

I can only imagine what mine has been through in its previous life with the other owners. There are a few things on it that lead me to believe that it has been rode hard and put up wet. haha

 

I hear you. I feel the same way about the AFM and the TPS. Its really weird. Everything was working great and as it should Before he removed the intake to fix the broken bolt. We are going to try and adjust the TPS again.

 

I feel your frustrations on what is working right and then goes backwards fast and gets more confusing. Especilly after swapping with other known good parts. Just taking the intake off like you have done shouldnt have messed up anything. I am looking at my project and trying to see what else could got bumped or something.

 

Just hit me, on 87 and up the test point is on the passenger fender. Is it possible the test point is messed up? The test points are far from each other but am wondering if it got damaged some how. They didnt by chance jump the wrong ones did they? I am trying to look at this from a beginners experience. Is it possible one of the kids didnt read the diagram right? Is it possible that they somehow shorted the two connectors together? Which would nevr let come put of test mode.

 

Thanks Terry. It is getting very frustrating. Trying to stay positive

 

Thats a good thought there Terry. The connections for the Diagnostic port have been jumped right in the E1 and Te1 spots. It still works correctly as the lights comes on flashing while running, and throws codes while off.

 

We just tested the TPS again and reset it as per 4crawler. Just for giggles, we tried slightly moving the TPS while the engine was running to see if that would allow the timing to advance as it should during normal operation and it did not change a thing. Still the same result.

Also, when the battery is disconnected, even left overnight, and turned back on after the reset, the Code 31 is there and the CEL is on and staying on. Also the Battery light and brake light. Very Very weird.

 

I had added this as well in the above post and was wondering about this. Trying to look at different angles.

Edit: Is it possible that they some how shorted the two connectors together? Which would never let come put of test mode.

 

I will check it out. Its a possibility that we have not looked at.

Very weird. THe alternator lights are on and the alt is acting like its not putting out. Showing 11.6V while running. It also started the exact same time all this started.