Hey Guy's,
OK I have a 1994 4runner with a 22re that runs perfect when cold and not so much when it hits operating temp. It starts perfect cold or hot, It idles perfect cold or hot. Specs are 22re, engblder crawler cam, new timing chain O2 sensor. Timing is dead on all 20 times I checked, EGR valve works correctly, TPS is dead on to specs. Like I said runs perfect when cold till it hits operating temp, once it hits OT it seems to lose about 25% of its power or more and the engine will ping. After I put in the O2 sensor It did cut the pinging to half and it stopped running as rich. It is showing NO CODES, timing is set @ 5° with the jumper in. All vacuum lines are brand new and installed to the vacuum map on the hood, I took them off one at a time when replacing. Any help would be awesome.

Thanks Guy's

 

What brand of 02 sensor did you use ?.

 

Air flow meter or bad ecu.

 

Denso, recommended by this site from sparkplugs.com

 

Please don't say that

 

timing at 5° with the engnbldr cam?

I ran my crawlr cam at 7°

you'd be surprised what 2° will do

 

I have went 8° to 2° and everything in between, 5° seems to be my best.

 

Im just throwing a couple of thing out there, what kind of gas are you running ?, maybe going to a higher grade might help. What about the exhaust, do you have a header, do you still have the original cat ?, maybe it`s a bit plugged and needs to be replaced ?.

 

I have thought those things also but it goes back to it runs perfect cold thing.
Yes it's the complete stock exhaust . But thanks for the replies so far guys.

 

First thing that comes to mind for me is dirty injectors. It runs well cold because the cold-start-injector is making up for it. The bad spray pattern results in the fuel not being burned and therefore the illusion that it's running rich. It then combusts in the cat, throwing off the O2 sensor.

Throw a can of Seafoam or BG44K in the tank and see if it changes.

 

Dirty injectors is a possibility, but it doesn't really work that way. The CSI is only (or should only be) active while the engine is cranking. The key being in the STA/starting position is what activates the circuit. Once the key falls back to the IG position and the engine is running, the circuit is broken by a timer in the ECU and/or timing switch depending on the model application. What compensates for the loss while cold is the main injector duration is longer.

Anyway.....

I do agree with tc in that the injectors are probably clogged. You're smelling unburned fuel, but the cylinders are actually running lean........IOW, not getting complete combustion causing high cylinder temps. With the high temps, you get the pinging and the knock sensor cuts the power under load. Clean the injectors and run Seafoam or water through the intake to clean carbon. Excessive carbon can also cause high temps.

 

BTW, it may actually take several fuel treatments to really clean injectors. Best thing is to just rebuild them. Though, I have heard that BG44k is good stuff. Just never tried it.

 

Tried the sea-foam already.

 

sea foam... i had the same problem not as bad as your but it took 3 cans of that 10 dollar crap and it fixed my problem... i also cleaned all my electrical contact points with electrical cleaner.. probably more than i should have done but it doesent loose as much power anymore..good luck

 

It does take more than one application. Do your intake, as well.

 

I rebuilt the motor so it is clean, carbon is not my issue I'm sure. I have ran a fuel can of sea-foam in two tanks of gas. I let vacuum suck in a half can of sea-foam and shut if off for 10 minutes, smoke like mad on start up!

 

Lets pretend it ran perfect before the head gasket failed, then what would you guy's say for the problem?

 

Im still trying to come up with ideas, when was the last time the fuel filter was changed ?. Another thing i just thought of is to check the coolant temp sensor, the one down by the thermal time switch, i believe that`s the one the computer uses to read the coolant temp, and if its bad it could be telling the computer that it hotter than it really is, so the computer is pulling the timing back causing the loss of power.

 

Hummmm, that's a $13 part........Anyways the fuel filter is also brand new.
I will test the temp sensor in the morning and or replace.

Thanks

 

An OEM coolant temp sensor is not 13$, neither is an OEM Fuel filter(both are highly recommended here.) Not sure what you're referring to, sorry.

I have to crash, but I'll be back to offer anything I can think of. I had SOME of the same symptoms in both my build and troubleshooting threads, in my sig below.

Best wishes