Need help removing driver side axle
#1
Need help removing driver side axle
So I did the passenger side cv boots and everything went great.
I got to the driver side and i just cant get the axle out. I managed to loosen the 6 bolts and the lower A arm is blocking from the axle lowering down so i can slide it out. Please let me know how I should go about removing it so i can get the axle out and replace the boots.
thanks in advance.
I got to the driver side and i just cant get the axle out. I managed to loosen the 6 bolts and the lower A arm is blocking from the axle lowering down so i can slide it out. Please let me know how I should go about removing it so i can get the axle out and replace the boots.
thanks in advance.
#2
i did mine a little while ago, if i remember correctly the best way to get them out is to pull them while its sitting on its own weight on the a-arm with the tire on. so basically sitting as it would right before you hop in and drive away, good luck those thing are a B!T(H!! to get in and out
#4
Jack up the rear passenger wheel so its totally stuffed, then place your jack under the driver's front lower ball joint and play with the compression of the a-arm until it slides. Helps to disconnect the swaybar (passenger side endlink where id connects to the a-arm) while doing this.
#5
Okay, so i got this freaking thing out last night..It's been over an hour and i still cant get it in. The freaking 6 bolts and the extended arm is in the way. i even loosend the sway bar so i can have clearance and that still didnt help. I jacked up the house and im only missing it but a 1/4in. Im stuck..Any help?
Thanks
Thanks
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#8
I will try that did not take out the sway bar...ii didnt see need for that.
Im going to take another look
Thanks
Im going to take another look
Thanks
#10
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: Land Of The Lollipop Kids (Lancaster,Pa).
I wouldnt seperate the ball joint unless it's the last option. I just did my passenger side last week and my driver side a few years ago. In my driveway,by myself with hand tools and a small floor jack. Just be patient and a little wigle ehre and their. All i had unbolted was the lower shock bolt. had the rig sitting on jack stand(just the front of the truck,under the frame rails) and I worked the lower a-arm with the jack to get the position for clearance. yes...it is a PITA,but i found with patience,a few scarred knuckels and a lot of swearing...I got 'er in. Im not saying avoid disassembly of the ball joint all together. i would just save that as a last resort if all else fails. You shouldn't really have to though,but to each their own.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#11
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 2
From: milwaukee, WI baby muddin in the streets!!
looks like you did it wrong if im seeing right and i bet im not but you put the bloted part in first where the wheel bolts on the spindle then you work the side with the 6 holes in so it all blots together i did mine when i rebilt my motor took me 20 minutes in and out not bad of a job just makes it really easy with a 48in pry bar!! lol
#12
Allen..where the hell you been man.
good to hear from you..
So i'm trying to slide the spindle side in first then the 6 bolt part
thats what the pics shows.
so what i did was separated the cv, and put the spindle part in first and then going to join the rest of it..but now i cant get the freaking lower ball joint in..
i called it a night..so i will try again tomorrow morning.
Thanks
good to hear from you..
So i'm trying to slide the spindle side in first then the 6 bolt part
thats what the pics shows.
so what i did was separated the cv, and put the spindle part in first and then going to join the rest of it..but now i cant get the freaking lower ball joint in..
i called it a night..so i will try again tomorrow morning.
Thanks
looks like you did it wrong if im seeing right and i bet im not but you put the bloted part in first where the wheel bolts on the spindle then you work the side with the 6 holes in so it all blots together i did mine when i rebilt my motor took me 20 minutes in and out not bad of a job just makes it really easy with a 48in pry bar!! lol
#13
Well just to let you know how I did my drives... I took out the bottom bolt on the front shock, Don't have front sway bar to worry about, took the 4 bolts out that held the lower BJ in and it all came apart and went together real nice like. Did it all myself in a few hours.
My only issue was (which you are well past) I have ADD in so I don't have locking hubs...There was enough dirt to fill the gap in the dust cover so it looked as if it didn't come out. so I fought trying to get it out while 1 bolt was in...
My only issue was (which you are well past) I have ADD in so I don't have locking hubs...There was enough dirt to fill the gap in the dust cover so it looked as if it didn't come out. so I fought trying to get it out while 1 bolt was in...
#14
Man , I had to fight a bit to swap out my drivers axle, but it wasn't THAT bad. The only thing that made it any more difficult than normal on mine was the balljoint spacers. I disconnected the swaybar (broke the link because of rust in the process... little oops
) disconnected the 4 bolts at the lower ball joint and swung the spindle out of the way. the used a floor jack to hold the lower A arm up a bit, and used a large prybar to pull up on the upper control arm lifting the spindle. Had an extra set of hands slide the axle in, then I just bolted it up and put everything back together. The whole thing took me about 4 hours, but I also repacked the wheel bearings on both sides, and added a set of Aisin manual hubs at the same time while I was in there.
My axle was in way worse shape though... not only was the boot split in half but it rattled like a sumbeetch. I couldn't just replace the boots... but the new axle was only 50 bucks
) disconnected the 4 bolts at the lower ball joint and swung the spindle out of the way. the used a floor jack to hold the lower A arm up a bit, and used a large prybar to pull up on the upper control arm lifting the spindle. Had an extra set of hands slide the axle in, then I just bolted it up and put everything back together. The whole thing took me about 4 hours, but I also repacked the wheel bearings on both sides, and added a set of Aisin manual hubs at the same time while I was in there. My axle was in way worse shape though... not only was the boot split in half but it rattled like a sumbeetch. I couldn't just replace the boots... but the new axle was only 50 bucks
Last edited by pb4ugotobed; Oct 4, 2009 at 06:53 PM.
#16
I forgot about disconnecting the lower shock mount. I replaced my front shocks when I replaced the CV axles. I also used a screw driver to help line the holes back up for the 4bolts on the lower ball joint. A whole lotta prybar action, some colorful words, and I had to walk away a couple times, but I managed. It was the 1st time for me and all I had was basic hand tools. I know it's frustrating. I started with the driver's side which took me 2 days, then the passenger side which only took 2 hours.
#17
Okay so i got that freaking thing out...Got it back in with some very friendly words and my pry bar...Now i got another problem. Once all is bolted up and everything looks good to me, the axle will not turn. I remember when i took it out, i could just turn the axle and it would turn, Now..it is stuck. I cant even turn my steering to the left or right. I think something is binding up inside the half axle at the knuckles, I did put alot of grease, but the part which has those "bearings" marbles look alike, they came out and i put grease in there and everything seemed fine...Any ideas, its been a week and im getting really frustrated.


