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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Need help, lift kit ideas...

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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:27 AM
  #21  
ovrrdrive's Avatar
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From: Central Florida
Originally Posted by space-junk

someone correct me if im wrong tho...
I believe that is the one thing you can always count on around this forum...
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:30 AM
  #22  
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From: elwood, in
i am installing toyecs 2 in lift as we speak.....i bought the kit and all 4 shocks and was only 350 shipped to my door......i will post pics and let u kno how it turns out...
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:28 AM
  #23  
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From: Langley,B.C.
Originally Posted by natetru
i am installing toyecs 2 in lift as we speak.....i bought the kit and all 4 shocks and was only 350 shipped to my door......i will post pics and let u kno how it turns out...
Ya definatly let me know how it goes, good luck and thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:56 AM
  #24  
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From: Langley,B.C.
Ok so i think i have it figured out I was thinking sdori spacers for 1.5" front then downeys spring kit for the rear which they claim is 1.5" also, it comes with the brake line proportioning valve bracket and brake line, for 199$ not to bad. So i get a little bit of lift keeping the travel in the suspension while not sacrificing ride i hope. Anyone have any experience with the downey springs? Do they actualy give you 1.5"s? Any input is appreciated.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:31 AM
  #25  
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From: Plainfield, IL
Higher does not equal better. I run our spacers with 1" of lift to gain 1" of up travel and .5" more downtravel. Remember, flex means wheels go both directions, not just up. The truck performs well, is not tippy, and has been very reliable.

As for on road ride, spacers improve that... if you stay around 1.5" of lift.

That said the stock ride high spec has a .5" window so there is some breathing room there.

You do not need a new brake line. If you can drill, you can make that bracket for almost free if you want.

Someone asked about the 26mm torsion bars. The answer is simple, stiffer bars make for stiffer suspension all around without exception. If you want the front stiffer, get them, if you want it to flex more, stay stock.

Frank
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:37 PM
  #26  
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interesting... i was under the impression that if you REALLY wanted your rear axle to flex like crazy, your stock line MIGHT be too short...

hmm... went by my buddies exhaust shop today and picked up a piece of scrap steel that is the perfect size for the LSPV bracket...

i know downey sells the panhard drop bracket, but is it seesntially the same thing? meaning 2 4"x6" plates with holes drilled 2 inches on center and excess trimmed off?
if so, then all i would need is a grade 8 bolt to hold it all together...
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:44 PM
  #27  
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From: Plainfield, IL
Flex like crazy... well let's just say you are probably doing a long travel kit or SAS up front. If you are going to lift 2" and get 2" longer rear shocks, the line is fine.

As far as the panhard drop is concerned, you will only shift the axle .5"-.75" with 1.5-2" of lift so I wouldn't bother.

One thing to keep in mind with hardware, your truck is metric which uses a class rating system not "grade". "Grade" is for standard hardware.

Since there is almost no load on those LSPV cap screws you could use Class 8 which is close to grade 5 or even weaker.

Frank
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 01:11 PM
  #28  
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I have a question,

If I were to do 4crawlers 1.5" BJ spacer and 2" rear spring poly spacers should I get a track bar and LSPV drop brackets? How about the front diff drop kit and front sway bar drop kit too?
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:24 PM
  #29  
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From: Wilton, CA
Originally Posted by Hilux808
I have a question,

If I were to do 4crawlers 1.5" BJ spacer and 2" rear spring poly spacers should I get a track bar and LSPV drop brackets? How about the front diff drop kit and front sway bar drop kit too?
like ive been talking to frank about in this thread, you DO need the LSPV valve, but the panhard bar (track bar) bracket is not needed... ill prolly just get the springs in and then make the panhard drop when i have the time to go see my grandpa...

but with the 2 inch spacers with the stock springs you prolly dont need to do either... since its basically lifting you back up to stock ride height...

as for the diff drop and sway bar drop kits, they arent needed, but the diff drop relaxes your tront CV angles and the sway bar drop allows your sway bar to work like it was intended and not be too tight...
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:29 PM
  #30  
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From: Texas
canadianmat,
You have coils in the rear correct? If so then you could do the 1.5" BJ's in the front and possibly some 1.5" coil buckets in the rear. You would maintain the ride quality and get some lift. If it is a leaf sprung rear then you can do some coil helpers ala ZUK that will gain you about 2 inches in the rear and the 1.5" BJ's in the front. Again you'll maintain the ride and get the limited lift.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 02:30 PM
  #31  
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From: Glendale AZ
Thanks space-junk. My rear springs are not sagging, I changed them out about 2 years ago so when I put the spacers in they will really lift the rear end, higher then stock; that's why I was wondering about the drop brackets. I'm thinking if I get his kit I'll order the front diff drop kit as well to relax the CV angles like you said, also the LSPV drop bracket.
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 03:58 PM
  #32  
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From: Plainfield, IL
For what it's worth I run stock rear coils with 2" spacers and air shocks. The rear axle flexes very well and I can custom tailor the rear suspension for the load.

Frank
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:31 PM
  #33  
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From: Langley,B.C.
Originally Posted by Junkers88
canadianmat,
You have coils in the rear correct? If so then you could do the 1.5" BJ's in the front and possibly some 1.5" coil buckets in the rear. You would maintain the ride quality and get some lift. If it is a leaf sprung rear then you can do some coil helpers ala ZUK that will gain you about 2 inches in the rear and the 1.5" BJ's in the front. Again you'll maintain the ride and get the limited lift.
Ya i was thinkin of that but i was concerned about the lift buckets movin around. I heard someplace that that can happen, i dont know for sure though. It would save money...
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Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:47 AM
  #34  
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From: Plainfield, IL
They don't move around, they are designed fit nice and snug. I have been running these for years.

You would have to have shocks so long that the coils lift off of the base which would be bad regardless of coil spacers since the spring would be unseating itself in that situation.

Frank
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