4rnr

Im pretty sure I just drove to the auto store with my tps un hooked?!?!?! Possible??

yotasavg

great! thank you. did you use 4crawlers how to?

95RunnerSR5

yes very possible, i have done it before. When your TPS is bad the computer sets your idle speed somewhere around 1000 rpms. So with it unplugged your idle will be slightly higher (should be)

4rnr

Ok I replaced my TPS with my buddies and nothing changed, so im thinking its ok, but I still cant get it to read the correct impedence....oh well. Im moving on to timing. I hoped know one would site that as a possibility. I recently changed the tensioner adjuster pulley for the timing belt and when I did I managed to mess up the timing. SO I redid the timing and the truck ran great until this. But after I re did the timing I had no power and checked the timing and it was retarded 10* I maxed out the adjuster to acheive between 5-10* advanced. After that it ran great til this.

Well now Im going to tear into the timing does anyone have any good write ups on how to make sure the belt is on proper, teath wise and tension. I thought it was a pretty strait forward thing (crank at 0, both cam pulleys green dot up) but maybe im mistaken.

BTW thanks guys for all the help so quick im still hoping to make the trip on friday

4rnr

Ok now Ive got the timing belt exposed and I rotated the crank until the hash was at 0 and the two cam pulleys are about three teeth away (ccw) from being strait up.

Should I reallign the cams so they are strait up. I know I did this the first time but I think There was slack in the wrong places or something. Ill look for a proper write up. Iknow this is all ☺☺☺☺☺ I should know, but I wing stuff.

TNRabbit

All marks need to be lined up. Instructions for all this are in the FSM--pick the closest year: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/t99418.html

4rnr

mkay Ill give it a wirl. I remember having trouble with tensions, I kept getting slack on the right side of the crank pulley and I think thats why its off 3 teeth

4rnr

well now everything seems to be lined up the the cams are straight up, the crank is zero. After I rotate the crank a couple times it all stays the same. great. But now when I try to set the timing I dont see the hash on the crank. it is about 50* advanced. (I jumered the diag port, the truck is hot and at 2000 rpm and yes im on the #1 wire). What am I missing something. The truck starts right up and idles (a bit rough but it idles)

4rnr

I got the timing set (I think). Ive got the TPS set (I think). And now the truck is worse than ever. Same problem just twice as bad.

The reason I say I think on the timing is the 10* adv position is not the same as it was when this whole project started.

The reason I say I think the tps is correct is because I have the following impedence's for the 4 tests

test #1 459 ohms (spec is 200-800) GOOD
test #2 13.9 ohms (spec is <2.3k ohms) GOOD i guess. both tps read this reading
test #3 O.L (spec is Infinity) GOOD i guess if O.L is infinity
test #4 4.29k ohms (spec is 3.3k to 10k) GOOD.

Im lost and now im talking to myself

TNRabbit

Did you adjust the TPS? it can be rotated & if it's off it will affect driveability. It shouldn't be as bad as you're describing, though.

It sounds like you have the valve timing lined up; what about the distributor?

4rnr

The only thing i have changed on the distributor is rotating it for timing.

Is it posible that lined the cams up out of phase with the crank. the crank spins once for 2 cam spins. could i have set the cams 180* out of phase. I doubt it would run but.... its entirely possible that i did that and I bet I did the first time and today I just tweaked it.

4rnr

And so starts a new day. I canceled todays appointment and im gonna wrench. unfortunatly I dont have any ideas. I could do the o2 sensor, what a crappy job though since theres a big hole in the pipe where it used to be! I will have to buy a section of pipe with the bung/flange in it. Plus I doubt the o2 sensor is doing this.

so does anyone have any good ideas as to where to start today

Dan.3

CHECK THE KNEUTER VALVE!!!! Depending on how today looks i might be able to swing down by you and give you a hand. There really isnt anything to do around my house anyways.

4rnr

I already did and I had the dealership replace all my muffler bearings.

TNRabbit

I believe someone mentioned earlier in the thread to fix your O2 sensor FIRST, then pull the EFI fuse to reset the ECU, then drive it and see what codes come up. That sounds like the best advice at this point. You need to fix the one obvious thing before you try to piecemeal it to death.

TNRabbit

GEEZ MAN! Don't you know the dealer charges double for muffler bearings?!??!??!!!?

4rnr

I just got of the phone with merlin muffler and brake and they said that to buy that pipe between the crossover and y-pipe...$500!!! HAHAHAHAAHA

it ripped out clean, maybe a can weld it in clean, just cant over heat the o2 sensor

Dan.3

if u think thats bad, they charge triple to refill your headlight fluid

GSGALLANT

After you re-installed your timing belt, you should have pulled your distributer off, made sure it was rotated correctly then re-installed it.

4rnr

It ripped a nice round 1" hole in the pipe. the 02 sensor and mount settled right in place and I gave it two healthy tacs. right now I disconnected the battery and am letting the ecu reset, (my fuse box has no diagram so I dont know which one is ECU) So now I have to reset my radio, DAMN

Time for a test drive...again.