with all those codes i think u should check the ECM

 

it gave me codes 2,7,8, and 12. I checked the tps and im pretty sure its bad but i need to get a new battery and then i am going to check out unplugging the tps to see if that makes a difference i did find an interesting problem while checking the tps though, my idle stop screw was adjusted so far down that it wasnt touching the throttle linkage. So new battery and then well see.

 

So heres an update. Got the new battery and started it up tonight after adjusting the throttle stop screw and no change except the mal codes which showed 7 which is tps. so i went back to the tps which i ohmed out bad yesterday and unplugged it. I idled really high about 2500 or so but smoothly and then i reved it up to about 3500 and all smooth. So i order the tps and well see tomorrow.

 

another update. with the new tps sensor no change tried unplugging it with new tps and it idles about 3500 smoothly didnt dare rev it. Im thinking since its not the sensor its self then the wiring. Anyone got and idea on how to test the wiring?

 

The FSM will have the specs, but you should test for voltage...how much is getting through to the TPS. Ohms will tell you if you're even getting continuity. Might do that first...the ohms. You know how to do that, I assume?

 

yeah i just happen to be an electronics tech. i just need the specs and a wiring diagram. i cant find either in my repair book and wanted to know if anyone had them?

 

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html

 

thanks for the link but i already have that page and it doesnt have any resistance or voltage specs. Here is the voltage i got from the tps connector starting from the top 10.3v, 0v, 22.3v, and 0v. Anyone know if thats correct.

 

I think that i got a bad tps i was trying to adjust the tps by the book and found that there is supposed to be continuity between idl and e2 and the new tps didnt have any so going to try and get the part replaced

 

correction i have installed the new tps as is and did some adjusting ( discovered that i was installing it in correctly) and now it runs like a champ well it now has a small vaccum leak due to a damaged throttle body gasket. And the 12 code (knock control senor) is back on. the timing may be wrong but its close. Any one offer some help?

 

I would swear that it did when I had some issues months ago I was tracking down. I may be mistaken. I'll do some digging.

But, as I recall, there are only two readings to be concerned about when testing the TPS. It's been a while since I delved into that info, but I believe the info was from 4crawler's site. Then, it could have been from a thread or three that I read. Again, I'll do some digging.

The knocking? Or code 12? I know, as you probably already do, that the timing won't be correct unless the TPS is correct. So...blah, blah. Nonetheless, I never got a code 12 even with a bad TPS and timing being off. Could be something else. Like your vacuum leak throwing your fuel ratio off? Dig, dig, dig...

Wish I could help more at the moment, but I'm drawing a blank and would hate to steer you wrong.

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! was the tps i was installing it incorrectly but i was also bad. I still have to do some readjusting. I timed it and now i want to readjusted the tps (still loping a bit between 1700 and 2000). Question i dont have the plate for timing degrees nor do i have the factory installed engine any tips on where to time it at. i set it to 0 deg and i dont here any engine noise or anything but i wondered if any one had any opinions or comments?

 

check the ecm had the same problem pull the ecm fuse for five minutes then re check codes

 

Wait...I'm not following. You said you timed it then you want to know where to set the timing? And you don't have the plate for timing degrees? Meaning you have no way to gauge what degree to set the timing?

It's supposed to be set at 8 deg's before top dead center (there should be a sticker under your hood to verify that) and TDC is 0. But, I don't see how you're going to be able to set the timing without the gauge/plate/thingy...hehe (I'm not sure what it's called, either).That is, if I'm understanding you correctly.

 

do the valve lash on it. i had the same problem and all i did was the valves and it runs better than i got it.

 

I dont have a Plate so i just winged it, it was kinda weird the mark would stay still at any degree setting between 0 and 8 so i just went with 0.

 

Well, I can get a measurement...or approximation....of where 8deg's is for you, but I think I'll let the rain pass first. It's pissin' cats and dogs! With that, you can atleast get it closer...if not right on...to where it should be. Just measure it out and mark it. Sound good?

 

hey sounds great. I just didnt know if i varied from engine to engine or anything but i'll reset it to 8 degrees