This is what scares me...


The balljoint spacer seems to be 1.5". However, look at how the CV boot is flexing. It reminds me of the Fabtech coilover lift set-up I had on my 2k Toyota Tundra. The flex on the CV boots are identical to the one on the photo above. I used to split the boots every 4 months until I got tired of dealing with it.

BTW, my wheels are 16x10 with -24 mm offset, and 4 1/2" backspace.

 

There are lots of guys around here running that setup with 33's, you just have to get the right backspacing wheels (stock I think?) and either settle on 10.50 wide tires or 12.50's and beat in the pinch weld (I am not 100% on that) and you'll be fine. Do a search on that (be prepaired to read alot), I think there is a sticky in the '86-'95 section on this setup too, double check before you jump on anything based off what I said though

The reason why you don't need the "4 inches" that the suspension companies state for thier lifts, and why they say 33's will fit fine is because of two reasons: 1. The more common tire size to put on after the bracket lift is 33x12.50, and with wheels that stick out a little more than stock, that's all your going to fit without rubbing, guys who run these 4 inch "lift kits" tend to get that size, and wheels that stick out, so the company doesn't want to say "yes you can fit 35's with our kit" and then have to deal with a bunch of customers complaining that they can't fit 35x14.50's reason 2. The suspension company doesn't have the time/resources to test every brand and size of tire (actual sizes vary brand to brand no matter what the side wall says) to see what will fit with each system. It's just not going to happen. Instead they just make a "safe" proclaimation that 33's will fit and be done with it

Yeah, I guess that cranking the bars and stuff is up to you, and if you want to get rid of the sag asap, and know you can't afford a whole setup for a while (like longer than you are willing to live with the sag for), you could buy the spacers and sell them later, just don't expect to get full price. If I was going to go this route, I would personally buy the springs, same price as the spacers and you have new springs, not old saggy springs with spacers trying to fix them

As for your friends '84 with the procomp lift: that is a totally different lift in the front than what you'll get, he's got a solid front axle, and as you know already, you don't, you'll get the bracket thingamajiggers

 

Do you have auto hubs or add or manual hubs? If you've got manuals or auto's, you'll be fine as you wont be spinning the cv's during 2wd

 

I havent heard of people having problems with their cv's with the spacers but i would still suggest manual hubs or a diff drop down bracket...

 

google search Peformance Products 1" progressive springs. its what i have and it fixes the sag issue and performs just as good as OME coils.

 

Is this the one you got?
http://www.performanceproducts4truck...spx?pid=104589

I assume that I really don't need to replace the rear shocks in order to use these springs right?

 

no you dont have to replace them but even with a one inch lift they may limit travel some but unless you wheel it regularly and on more then just light trails i wouldnt bother.

 

Thanks for all the help guys!! I know what I'm going to do now. I'm going to go with the PP prog coilsprings for the time being. I need to spend a big chunk of change on getting the rear diff bearings replaced. Just had it diagnosed this morning because I was getting bad vibrations and noise from under the truck at speeds over 65mph! I thought it was driveline related but turns out, its the diff bearings. So I need to address that quickly before the repair expense gets any bigger.

 

Oooops posted in the wrong thread.

 

moved...