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Need help changing valve cover gaskets. Can't get plenum off.
I followed a video on YouTube that got me past taking of throttle body and disconnecting all kinds of hoses
https://youtu.be/Z5kUOWg8LhY?si=zovgxfBBwq77DSGi
.I am down to just the pcv hose under the plenum, but I cannot get the egr pipe to seperate as it is rusty. I soaked it in pb blaster. I need it to seperate so I can get the pcv hose off.
is this the one with the large hex nut between the intake injector and front of the motor? if so, using a large set of slip joint pliers helps removing that nut. When it's rusty like mine was and I'm sire yours is, it gives you just a little more wiggle room on the pipes but is also necessary to separate that part bolted to the intake plenum from the egr pipe.
is this the one with the large hex nut between the intake injector and front of the motor? if so, using a large set of slip joint pliers helps removing that nut. When it's rusty like mine was and I'm sire yours is, it gives you just a little more wiggle room on the pipes but is also necessary to separate that part bolted to the intake plenum from the egr pipe.
Let me know if its not the same one though
It is.
I got the nut off but the pipe won't seperate.
I see they don't make them anymore so a little worried about breaking it.
It's also hard to get pb blaster sprayed into that connection.
Maybe i can use to pipe wrenches to try and twist in opposite directions.
If I remember that pipe correctly, it’s hard to separate all at once, you need the plenum to have wiggling room altogether. The one on the plenum side is a 6 inch or so pipe going straight into the plenum underneath where the logo on the top is basically. Needs to come straight out.
You loosened the hook next to power steering that supports the upper plenum right? You can loosen the bottom bolt or nut but remove the top one entirely, it does a really good job of keeping that plenum locked in. Other than that, should be the 8 nuts and bolts near the throttle body and the 2 coolant hoses and the vacuum hoses.
Last edited by livergang; Jun 10, 2025 at 06:42 AM.
Yes I removed that bracket completely. Took off the hose in the back and all i think that's left holding it is that rusted egr pipe and the pcv valve hose.
Coolant pipe to the heater core stuff at the rear of the motor? Maybe coolant hose to the sensor block at the rear of the motor. It looks from the pics like you have movement on the front and drivers side but not so much on the passenger and backside, like thats where its hanging up. Thats the only thing I can think of that is hiding back in all that mess that you didn't take a picture of. Definitely helps if you try to trace all of those hardlines to their end locations to make sure none are still plugged into anything you forgot.
Please kick out Stuart Little when you're in there. Thats a crazy lookin nest.
Last edited by livergang; Jun 10, 2025 at 05:45 PM.
Ah there it is, I remember that one being a nasty pull the first time. I replaced my egr hoses with silicone ones, from a kit off yotashop I think. I would recommend finding that hose exactly or taking the part to a parts store and referencing it with other hose diameters they have in stock.
I use partsouq to find part numbers right now with pretty good success. Great database with exploded views of most parts diagrams.
Is that the hose to the reed valve? If so partsouq gives a part# 1734165010 which is discontinued I’m finding. 3vze reed valve hose should probably bring up some results though.
Ah there it is, I remember that one being a nasty pull the first time. I replaced my egr hoses with silicone ones, from a kit off yotashop I think. I would recommend finding that hose exactly or taking the part to a parts store and referencing it with other hose diameters they have in stock.
I use partsouq to find part numbers right now with pretty good success. Great database with exploded views of most parts diagrams.
Is that the hose to the reed valve? If so partsouq gives a part# 1734165010 which is discontinued I’m finding. 3vze reed valve hose should probably bring up some results though.
I noticed in the gasket kit it included 2 round plugs which i believe are for the rear parts of the valve covers on the dashboard side. https://a.co/d/cR8xrnC
I can get to the drivers side easy but I am concerned if I will be able to get the 4 bolt bearing cover off on the passenger side as it looks like it has a hard pipe over it.
The hardline goes to the fuel rail, it can be moved out of the way but you will need new copper washers to crush between the banjo bolts again. If taking that out you’d have to loosen both connections between both rails (the crossovers from left to right) and then pulling the fuel rails out you can just drape the passenger side one with that hardline and longer hose from the feed line over the fender/anywhere out of the way. The hardline is secured by a fifth 10mm bolt to that 4 bolt cap.
Replacing the rear cap is still tough because there is the circular retaining ring held in with two VERY small bolts. Easy to strip. The only way I’ve gotten them out is with a box end wrench. Not a ton of torque on them but super awkward placement. Rocking the motor forward would help too. Not sure how that would be easily done. I would only replace the rear cam caps if they are leaking. Use fipg when reinstalling them, just a lil bit.
IMO if you are doing valve cover gaskets just do the gaskets unless your sealant under that 4 bolt cam cap or the rear cap is leaking oil. It will be a pain to get those out in the truck.