Sorry I can't tell from the pic. Hard to get an orientation on it.

Here's some pics I found for you.
The control valve is screwed into the steering pump on the bottom left hand side (if you are looking at it from the front of the car) It screws in and is offset a little.Make sure that little brass fitting is inside the hole of the control valve before you screw it to the pump. It acts as a seal, same way a brake line does. And NO teflon tape.
The picture show the Valve and the pump (side and bottom view). I circled the bung where the valve goes.

 

I found more diagrams not related to this issue, but will be helpful doing the rest of the lines/hoses.

 

I don't want to get you started taking short cuts or removing components from under the hood but that whole power steering idle up system is not absolutely necessary. Yes, it will idle you up a little when you have your steering turned to the limit at low RPM but since I have removed mine, I have never had any issue with the engine stalling while turning the wheel. Mine is a manual so when I'm at a crawl and trying to turn around sharp, I do have the clutch in and my foot on the gas so I am controlling my engine speed manually. All I'm saying is that, if this is the only thing holding you up, plug and or cap the tubes up top and at the PS pump and go about your business. If you have trouble with stalling, go back and address it.

 

I can't tell what I'm looking at in this photo. Could you take another picture from above the power steering pump?

 

That is the idle up valve. Should be two nipples coming off it that appear to be broken off. I put my hands on mine to be sure and saw that one of my caps has split but nothing is leaking out and I have no issues with the pump. If nothing is leaking from the valve I'd say leave it alone. Otherwise the options would be replace the valve, remove and install a plug in the pump or cut in some fine thread screws a little bigger than the holes in order to seal the valve.

 

As Carachee, I capped my PS idle up. No ill effects. I don't even notice a difference. I'd cap it somehow, even if it's just JB weld on the broken off nipples, LONG before I spent money to replace it. There shouldn't be any fluid reaching those holes, it's just a vacuum switch. If you're getting fluid out of them, then it's got bigger issues.

 

I don't know if this will help, go to my Thread vacuum hose on Rh v6 3.0 1995 , ianjadkins posted a pic and info on there for me on the hoses , I just don't know how to copy them to here . It help me identify the pipes