Well I posted a link to this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOT...6127QQtcZphoto
motor earlier this week and had a few comments about it being way over priced and that I could build it myself alot cheaper.

So to those who said I could do it myself, yield the same results and do it cheaper lets hear how. All I've gotten from reading the boards about getting more power out of the 3.0 is Weasy's cams and bigger valves when the heads are rebuilt. What else is there to do because I dont believe cams and valves put that motor at 210 torque.

PS: Naturally aspirated, no turbos or prochargers

 

port polish the heads and intake manifold, bore out throttle body

 

I don't wanna open a can of worms..

But I've heard polishing doesn't really make a difference.

 

Somehow i have my doubts that that motor is doing the same because I don't see what they have done to it to make it produce anymore power than stock

 

i honestly wouldnt buy from them, and they could just be saying that they regrind down the cams or valves.

 

It is posible to get that power with compression ratio change, better design intake manifold/tb setup, headwork with performance cams and pistons.

That engine looks shiny and thats all...222deg at .050 would have a very poor idle as i tried a grind similar to that and it was not nice unless you were pushing it.

Oh look at the power too:
190HP @ 4800 RPM / 210FTLBS @ 4800 RPM < the cams would allow for a much different peak hp and tq curve vs the stock: 150 hp (112 kW) at 4800 rpm with 180 ft?lbf (244 N?m) of torque at 3600 rpm



Remind you of this:
Output is 190 hp (142 kW) at 4800 rpm with 220 ft?lbff (298 Nm) of torque at 3600 rpm.

ANd for that price? $2k? Something is fishy!

Dyno please

 

I guess people think it came "tuned" from the factory, or that it's somehow different from any other engine. In that you can't get it to perform better by doing the same mods you would to any other EFI gas engine to get it running stronger.

Mine runs better with no muffler, you should at least get a good one and maybe a HF cat. Esp. if you want to run headers.

 

^ oh that reminds me headers and better flowing exhaust helps too!

 

My first thoughts were that 210 torque was too good to be true. Weasy what do you suggest I do when I rebuild a 3.0 to go into my truck? Right now I'm thinking about just leaving the compression alone and doing your cam and bigger valves and calling it a day.

PS: I can do the exhaust work with my cousin but $600 headers for my turd sounds, ehm expensive. Especially when I am trying to aim to do the motor for a grand.

 

Yep head upgrades is the best you can do. cams and valves help, some people go as far as ported intake manifold and TB. A mild port and polish WILL help as well.

 

This is very noob question I understand the idea behind port and polish and what it does. But basicly how do you do it?

 

the CLIFF NOTES SUMMER is: you take a dremel with an assorted amounts of bits and widen the intake and exhaust ports to allow for more flow.

Of course its not just widening that helps increase flow there is a lot more to it but to DO the majority of work the dremel does the job.

Its an art really, you have to know what you are doing to make it even work out in the end.

 

Click meh


LoL

 

god i love wikipedia....

 

good link, thanks

 

So with a stock bottom end and oversized valves and the weasy cams what am I look at in the general gestimated range of power?

 

funny thing is, nobody dynos So its hard to say...i think bumpin did but dont remeber

 

Guesses?

 

Nope, havent dyno'ed yet. Low compression on my 280,000 mile old short block is killin me. However even with severely low compression she runs circles around how she used to when stock. To give you an idea, cylinders 2-6 are btwn 135 and 150 psi. Cylinder #1 is at 95 psi! :eek:

Thus Ive found a short block locally that's going to get the old college try with the current heads I've got. This little beastie should run well once complete. Oh and Im adding some ARP head studs and some forced induction after that.

1mm oversized valves, a "street port and polish", and headers gave Ted at Engine builder a 30 rwhp gain on the dyno using the 3vze. Throw cams in there and you should be at a 40rwhp gain. So 220ftlbs shouldnt really be a problem.

 

wowsa! did they have headers and exhaust?