Well I took the plenum off, and wanted to leave the lower intake mainfold attached like it says in the FSM. However there is the large wiring harness that goes inbetween and won't allow me to pull the head off with the lower intake.

Another issue is getting the exhaust manifold off. The little copper colored tube that goes across the outside is not able to come off. I have all the bolts off (thanks to PB blaster) but the way its situated it wont slide out.

 

Ok 3hrs worth of working. I got the upper intake off easily, vacuum hoses outta the way, valve cover off, exhaust headers off (will need new studs hehe).

Tomorrow I need to take off 2 more pesky 12mm bolts from lower intake, dizzy out, 12mm on timing chain cover, remove head bolts and hopefully the sucker will pop off.

Exhaust gaskets were all super toast. Looks like something "ate" them.

 

In very interested in seeing what the head gasket looks like, as im sure you are also, keep us posted on your progress.

 

Wow working fast...I like this guy.

Hope everything goes as smoothly as possible.

PM if you have any questions...ill get an email and be able to help...even if Im not on the computer.

 

im just gonna throw this out there, maybe it will help but probably not...did you check the gap on your plugs?

 

When you get ready to pull the head and you have the rocker arm assembly removed, don't for get the small head bolt in front of the timing chain. It bolts the head to the timing chain cover.

 

Myyota: Yes, I am very curious. I think its a very small defect in the HG but I wanna see I will be interested to see what a 1 year old looking HG would be like.

HighLux: Thanks for your offer!

85Junk: I checked spark plug gaps. I still am wondering if it is a simple thing like that If all this work doesn't fix anything I'll be going back to the basics.

Hadmatt: Thanks for the heads up! Luckily everyone makes such a big deal of that bolt cause it sure is invisible under that little area of oil.

 

My questions right now:

1) To take lower intake plenum off... There are some hidden bolts underneath, and especially the one towards the front of the head is behind a coolant line. Any help on getting this guy off?

2) Is it easier to just leave the lower intake on? I can't see how you'd get that wire loom outta there unless you wanted to go back to the tranny and O2 sensor and disconnect it. (I still can't find all the harnesses).

3) Does a stock exhaust manifold gasket work with headers?

4) Any advice with the timing chain? Just zip tie it to the cam gear or what? How do I make sure that it doesn't skip a tooth on the crank?

 

The only hidden bolt on the lower intake is the allen head bolt by the thermostat housing. If you can slip the wiring from around the lower intake runners, then leave it on. The stock exhaust manifold gasket should work just find with headers. On the timing chain you might end up removing the timing chain cover and taking the chain off because the timing chain passes through the front of the head, so i don`t know how you would hold it in place. It would also be a good time to inspect the guides to see what condition there in.

 

Gah OK.

So what do you guys do with the main wiring loom when removing the head? Do you take off the lower intake plenum or do you disconnect the wiring? I can't see where the wiring disconnects. It looks like it goes all the way to the transmission

 

You can either unbolt the lower intake, or unplug the wiring harness. It would probably be easier if you could unbolt the lower intake and just lay it to the side. Otherwise you will need to label and unplug everything.

 

I don`t know if your truck if manual or auto, but there are usually some plugs for the wiring harness just above the starter.

 

I just disconnect it from all the sensors and injectors and pull it down out of the way.

 

That engine harness comes from the passenger fender, what you see going back to the tranny is the O2 sensor wiring, the back up lights and the 4wd indicator light. One way or the other the lower intake has to come off, it's much easier to break it free if the head is still bolted to the engine. As far as the harness you will have to get it out of your way and it goes down through the lower intake to pick up the oil pressure sender (or switch if you have an idiot light) and knock sensor. You may have to disconnect the harness from the front of the engine to the firewall all sensors, injectors, distributor, etc just to get it out of your way. "And" when you put this back together don't forget to put the harness back in place before you put the top intake on. As silly as it sounds there have been those who forgot this step.

 

Ya i think check fuel pressure too ,,and the fuel line from Rails to cold start . My truck stalled sometimes 3x per trip . the leak was a hissing noise that did NOT leak fuel it was sucking air and stalling. Only when i tore down the top half did i disturb the hose enough to cause it to then start leaking enough so i could see it.

 

Not as easy of just moving it away. I mean, I guess I'll just remove the lower intake somehow. I still can't find the bolts that are hold it on. Trying to find a diagram to show me.

See how it wraps around the intake, I would have to pull off all the wires that go up underneath the tranny and such. I mean i guess its doable.

 

OK I cant get the head off. I think I'll just pop the motor once and hope the compression will pop it off.

As far as the wiring, I'm still confused on how to get it outta the way... Anyways, I'll just keep the lower intake on for a bit.

 

Are you positive that you got all of the head bolts out, even the one in the timing cover ?. Sometimes it can be a pain in the butt to get the head to break free.

 

x2 make sure you have that hidden bolt out, the one that sits in the pool of oil in the front of the head under the distributor drive gear. Also I believe on the 22re there is a support bracket for the lower intake runners that gets bolted to the block as well? I could be wrong about that though.

 

OK Update!

Yeah, I had all all the bolts out but the A-hole who installed it before put some RTV on the head. Anyways, I used the method I've used before, and just turned the motor over and used the compression of the piston to pop open the motor.

I also just decided to pull the wiring off all the sensors, it was really easy, and just pulled it up over the lower intake, so I could pull the head off with the lower intake attached still.

The main concern I found was that the intake manifold gasket (holding the lower intake to the head) was TOAST. The lower bolts were loose, and it looked like there was a coolant chamber on the middle that was leaking into the intake tubes feeding into the cylinders!! Possible? Im not sure.

Anyways the head gasket looked pretty worked... I am glad I took everything off.

The real problem what it seems like was the rocker arms for #3. Both were scored and very very very worn. I could see themselves being the problem for my light misfire. Delta Camshaft is sending me brand new rockers and cam hopefully will be here on Monday.

No burnt valves from what I can see, and the I tooka straight edge to the head, and it didn't seem warped, but I'm not the one to say. Lets hope this fixes my power problems. I cleaned both surfaces thoroughly with a wire wheel and cleaned with brake cleen and air. Also couldn't help myself but I replaced the fuel filter. I woulda felt stupid if I didnt.

Tomorrow I'll start putting the exhaust manifold back. Then wait for my new parts and hopefully have her running by Monday night.

So here's some pictures: (coolant in cylinder was from some stuck in the head and poured in by accident)