the number 2 piston looks real clean, that would be caused by coolant getting into that cylinder, im sure it was caused by the loose intake manifold. So you actually found RTV on the head gasket ?. Who ever rebuilt that motor was a real pro, why in the hell would you put RTV on a head gasket ???.

 

I'm waiting for new head bolts, exhaust mainfold gaskets and exhaust studs....not to mention my rocker arms and camshaft

I'm really really hoping I am not making the mistake to not give to a machine shop to make sure the head is not warped or damaged. It does look like a new head, and not original. I personally think my problem(s) were the intake gasket and the rocker arms so I'm feeling somewhat comfortable.

 

Oh wow. What a can of worms. I'm actually relieved for you that you decided to just rebuild. I could see you spinning in circles, otherwise, trying to get this thing working right. That's some nasty wear on those rockers. Dang.

Honestly, if I were in your situation, I really think I'd have the head inspected for any damage even though your straight edge says there's no warpage. That engine looks like it's really been neglected. A prime example of what not to do with an engine.

 

Well I'm still waiting on parts, and I took the (probably dumb) chance of putting back the head w/o taking to a machine shop. The problem is that I have to go to work and school this week and don't have an extra car. My FJ40 is out of commission too. Basically, if this doesn't work I can wait another 2 weeks and use my mom's car and pull the head off again... yeah I'm stupid.

Actually, I bet I could get the head off in 3-4 hours the second time around. Its a lot easier once you've already done it.

Questions right now:
1) My cylinder head is not all that "clean" where the oil was. As in, its picked up particulates in the oil residue. I was about to spray with brake cleen but then I got scared it would damage something (valves?). I donno. Whats the best method?
I was just going to run it for about 30 minutes to warm it up after assembly, adjust valves and change oil. The oil in there only has about 400 miles on it...tops. (waste of $$ I know).

2) Getting the exhaust studs back in. Do you just finger tight them, and when you attach the nut, they will tighten themselves?

3) I'm frigging anxious... Jack or Beer?

 

I would definatly take it to a machine shop to get checked, and check your block also. Cheap insurance? I would clean it with wd40, or something oil based. I would run it for about that long after you put it together. Your always going to find leaks and unplugged plugs. It happens. Then after you get that figured out check and change the oil.

Some studs have a star bit on the outside use that to tighten them. If not put 2 nuts back to back and snug them then tighten it.

Beer!

 

If you are going to make a habit out of pulling the heads, I would suggest ARP head studs. Much stronger and more consistant torque values. By the time you buy new head bolts twice you could have bought studs instead.

 

OK I think its fixed! I just did a cam break in, and revved the motor for 20 minutes at about 2000 RPM. I did vary it every once in a while.

During this process it had no misfire! I stopped and rechecked the timing.

Now I'm letting it cool down and will do another run.

The engine sounds much, much, much, much better. Everything seems smooth rather than my entire cab shaking. For 20 minutes at 2000 to 2500 RPM, the engine did not overheat and the electric fan only came on a few times.

WOOHOO!

 

Congrats.....!! Take it easy on her and change the oil in a week.

 

 

I'm glad to hear this turned out well.

 

FIXED!


For now.

I drove her around the block and holy crap its like a new motor! Thank you to EVERYONE that helped me through this, I love you guys! haha

Questions:
1) Do I have to "take it easy" for real? (Normal driving on freeway OK?)
2) How soon should I change oil?
3) Valves dont sound loud at all, they sound perfect. Can I wait to recheck them after driving around a bit. I set them to cold specs in FSM.
4) When should I re-torque head bolts?

Parts I replaced during just this last weekend:
Head bolts, head gasket, exhaust gasket, intake plenum gasket, lower intake plenum gasket, fuel filter, all rocker arms, rocker shafts, rocker towers and camshaft.

 

I would say the hardest part during the install was that stupid copper tube that runs the outside of the headers/manifold. PAIR? I donno what the heck it is. Basically took me 2-3 hours to install that POS. I had to bend, pry, yell, pray that thing into place. Everything else was a cakewalk.

 

1: Normal driving, you are not breaking in rings so you just more or less drive it as you do, just pay close attention to your guages, and check all fluids once a day at least.
2: You should do it asap. Get all the knocked loose stuff out of the motor.
3-4: After a few heat cycles, so probably asap. Let it cool, re-torque the head bolts, and then adjust the valves.

Enjoy !!

 

Oh and on a side note, I read through what I've missed the last couple days and didn't see any mention.


Can you determine what kind of cam that was in there?

In the pictures I can tell those were Factory Rocker Arms.

Does the cam happen to say EP-32 on it?

 

Thanks Trainwreck for the advice.

As far as the cam that was in there, I couldn't find any EP-32 on it. Where would it be?
The only markings I can find are an (8 1 3) along the top of the shaft. I took some pictures of them.

The engine builder cam I bought (but didn't use, I used the OEM reground) says 8 1 2




The rocker arms I got from Delta camshaft were slightly different in appearance from the ones I had on there. They had small numerical stamps on them.

 

Also, Can I swap out bolts for the studs in the exhaust manifold? Those things are a PIA.

That stupid copper tube took me 2-3 hours to get on cause it was slightly bent. POS!

 

That looks like it was a factory cam. It can be very hard to tell over the net. Most of the aftermarket ones are quite different but some are very close copies.

There are some very slight differences in Factory Rockers. Delta only uses OEM so you are good there.

Yes you can change out the studs and put in bolts. All that PITA was caused by the header. I charge customers an extra 100 If they have a header because they are always a pain. I'm definatly not a fan of them with all the different problems they cause. That "eaten away" exhaust gasket is another problem with them. It will probably leak again as most headers do.

 

Hey Trainwreck,

Yes, the manifold gasket was completely eaten away!

Anyways, today I noticed there is a hesitation in acceleration. Almost as like its getting too much fuel. It kinda bogs down when I really try to get it to go. Then all of a sudden it takes off. I haven't adjusted valves or rechecked timing, but anyone got advice what that could be?

 

Could be TPS, could be sticking VAFM, could be distributor issue. I doubt very seriously it's "too much fuel" as fuel injection seldom behaves like a carburetor.

 

Right, I was just saying thats what it felt like because I couldn't describe it any other way. My Fj40 does that when its getting too much

Yeah I have a new Denso TPS and its adjusted properly, VAFM is nice and operational... CHecked dizzy air gap and resistances.