Low compression in one cylinder is USUALLY either from a bent, broken, or cracked valve, or a head gasket leak. Do a cooling system leak test first; if that's good, I'm guessing valve issue on your Heep.

 

Skypilot: Is it a reconditioned head or a new head? I think its "new" but I could be wrong.

My mechanic buddy is saying to just replace the cam for now and see how it runs. If it fixes it, then run it until I get time to pull the head and do everything else. I just am concerned that putting a stock cam will damage something else.

 

Looks like the consensus is with valvetrain or head gasket or both. Lets see...oversize valves and an aftermarket cam....sounds suspect to me!!. If these modifications were done by someone other then a pro engine builder then your bound to have issues. There is so many things that could have been done incorrectly.

My suggestion....Find a good STOCK head or whole engine and swap it out. You can often not do any better then stock when tuning a Toyota engine for regular street and offroad use.

Too Bad though I just sold my totally rebuilt 22r motor from my project truck a couple of weeks ago.

 

Im going to throw something out there that we are deaing with on my buddies truck. Had a very similar issue on his truck down to the coolant issue. the idle surges and miss are what im going to share. I would check the Idle air valve under the intake manifold has 2 coolant lines and 2 vacuume lines going to it. its about the size of a small fist. the part that rotated inside broke causing the truck to run very similarly to what you are saying. We went through a lot of what you are going through. I would at least check it there are ways to test in in the FSM and a visual inspection. It takes about 10 min to remove to look at it. we replaced his reset the computer and it smoothed out a lot we still have to reset everything we messed with trying to smooth out before we replaced that. I hope this helps

 

Thanks 1stYota for your post. I've cleaned the IACV 2 times, assuming it was the problem, and could still very well be part of the problem, at least for the surging idle. Attached is the photo when I opened it up. The brown gunk is what looks like either rust or oil from a previous blown head gasket, I'm not really sure. I have tested the IACV via the FSM and it does "work" or do its job. I will definetly look into it again though.

What is the cause of the brown buildup? I had this problem with my Fj40 and I used like 10 coolant cleaner products to clear it up. My truck has perfectly green coolant in it right now but I assume it will change as it picks up more of this crap.

 

corrosion in the coolant passages. one way to minimalize this is to flush the radiator and heater core with a garden hose by themselves as most of it comes from them. Although depending on mileage source can also come from the block itself.

 

Right I agree with you. I think the coupling of the aftermarket cam in particular with a guy who didn't know much about cars (or have the research capabilities) caused the problem. The aftermarket cam and inproper brake in procedure caused the premature wear on the cam.

I am pretty certain that the guy bought a pre-built NEW head with valves and cam, and bolted it on. In fact, he had a mechanic do the work for him (I have the receipt from only August of 2009). That certainly does not take into account that the head was broke in properly.

I wish I had the guy's phone # still (i could probably find it through my cell phone records online). I would like to ask him where he bought the head from just so I know what I'm dealing with.

Right now I am planning on swapping the cam and rocker arms. In 2-3 weeks I will be able to borrow a car for school and work, and can send the head off to a machine shop. In which case I'd obviously replace my head gasket.

I am not having any more overheating issues. It had never overheated before, only that one time yesterday in traffic. However I felt it had something to do that there was probably air trapped in the coolant system.

My questions right now are:
1) Will I damage anything if I just swap in a new (OEM reground) cam, and rocker arms onto my existing "oversized" valves and valvesprings?

2) Does anyone have a good explanation on to why my #3 and #4 rocker arms are burnt? Lack of oil?!

3) Do I need to buy new cam bearings? If so, where should I buy them?

4) Does anyone have a good explanation on why my compression is only 160 across the board? I did a wet and dry test. My compression gauge is a cheapo from Kragen. I did it hot, with throttle open. I guess it wont matter if I am going to go and get new valve train

 

answers in bold red.

 

Thanks xxxtreme!

I am interested into why those rocker arms got so hot. I'll obviously check the rocker shafts to make sure there isn't anything inside of them plugging up oil flow. I know my oil pressure is good...

 

Make sure the rocker shafts are assembled properly, the only thing that would make them run hot is lack of proper oiling.

 

I found this in another unrelated thread.

Seems the roundy-rounders drill the rocker for extra lubrication on the exhaust cam lobes.

The reason we see it is because of the off-camber of rock climbing and general off-road hi-jinks we get into.

If I were building a 22re this is something i would do.

http://www.well.com/user/mosk/rockermod2.html

 

How is 22reperformance.com for parts?
They look to have a good price for new refurbished OEM rockers and cams
http://22reperformance.com/22RE%20Pe...-%20Parts.html

 

Ive heard good things about them, and others here have used them with good results. I would buy from them.

 

Wow I only have a few minutes here but there is sooooo much to respond to in this thread...

Anyways I about choked when I looked at the prices of 22rePerformance.com I will do a line by line comparison ......

off the website:

Cam..... "We have these camshafts reground for us" ... 110.00 Ok so they order cams from a company like Delta and double the price.....

Remanufactured rocker arm assembly: $236.00 + $35.00 refundable core....... OH MY LORD Thats half the price of a fully rebuilt engine !!! ..... not quite but that is at least twice what they should be for an assembly. It doesn't say they buy these from another company but who knows.

New rocker adjuster tips $16.00 for a set of 8 ........... That's actually a decent price. only a 100% mark up. They are 1.08 each from Altrom through Napa. Those are new OEM tips, I bet my first born they are from Altrom.

Refaced OEM rocker arms $80.00 for a set of 8 +$25 refundable core .... anyone can buy these for 3 bucks each, through Delta. And probably about the same money from a local shop that reconditions rockers and cams.

NEW higher oiling capacity rocker shafts $105.00 per pair.... Again, Napa, Altrom 27 each. Thats a 400% mark up. Scary !!! These are OEM parts

NEW cylinder head bolt kit $35.00 set ..... These again look like Altrom head bolts. 12.00 bucks a set, so only a 300% mark up.


All these products are great high quality products, How much a person wants to pay for them though is another story.

 

They became hot because of a large amount of extra friction due to the scoring of metal as the cam and rocker failed.

Why the rocker or cam failed is another story. It could be from low oil pressure, clogged oil passages, cam or rocker arm failure etc... My best guess is a metallurgy problem with the aftermarket cam and rockers.

 

OS valves are the same length, and will be just peachy. IF the head was actually new not rebuilt and only 5 thousand miles old you are in great shape.

 

I tested a chinese cam. It Rockwell tested just fine.

The best the "experts" can figure out is that these cams and also the aftermarket Rockers have issues with metallurgy. Incompatible metals being used.

Still the net result is the same. Don't use aftermarket cams is my recommendation, or be VERY carefull who you buy them from.

 

So I can go get rocker shafts from Napa, and they'd be the same product (as long as I asked for the Altrom)? Crazy.

I never heard back from Delta, I will try calling tomorrow.

 

Yup Same product, straight from Japan OEM

 

What is the recommended grease you guys would use in assembling the new camshaft and rockers?

Any tips or tricks or pointers before I start tearing in? I've redone only one head and it was on my 1966 FJ40. It was pretty easy. I don't think there's much more to the 22re head except for the timing chain being there. Do I need any gear pullers or special tools? I read through the FSM and it looks fairly straight forward. I guess my main concern is making sure I don't skip a tooth on the cam gear somehow. I don't see how it could if you make sure the crank doesn't move.

Just ordered my OEM reground camshaft, rockers, rocker shafts, from Delta Camshaft in Washington. Total after I send back my core is $119. Not bad, and I get all that China stuff outta there