suprathepeg

You should absolutely do the deckplate mod then. The total cost is less then $20 and you will make up for it in gas real fast. A snorkel will add a lot of extra distance and resistance to your air intake, especially the safari cause that thing has some pretty tight areas. I did the DP without a snorkel and noticed a difference.

suprathepeg

Also, a common misconception(sp) is that lower RPMs in a toyota will net better milage. All their engines are designed to run at higher RPM levels and usually 2600-2500 is a good cruising range. Look at where you are when you are on the hwy. Toyota did that on purpose, if you run too low then you'll just lug the engine and suck up the gas. I generally shift at about 4k every gear and cruise around town at ~3k.

4x4Lamm

How does the deckplate mod work on the 3.0s round airbox? Or do you just mean drilling it out?

Lamm

suprathepeg

Here is a pic of mine. You basicly seal around the flange and use some screws to secure it.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c5.../Deckplate.jpg

4x4Lamm

An update:

I have started using mid-grade gas, and between that and possibly the warmer weather we have bben having my MPGs have incresed considerably. I will have some hard numbers at the next fill-up.

Lamm

86 TurboSR5

86 turbo 2wd sr5 x=cab 5speed with camper and kit. 205-70 -14,s 33+highway 23+ in town. 35lbs in tires.

CraZyRunner

lamm
I was only getting about 10 mph before i got the snorkle and it seems like it added a little bit of power but it is also limiting a lot of air capacity to the engine. Its could just be how im driving too.

brandontrek

2 weeks ago...3.0---5speed---31's(bridgestone 840's...serious road tire)----new plugs---airbox mod with k&n...

18-20mpg...

now......---new tires to 32" and A/T tread....noticing about 10-20 miles a tank drop...not making me cry cause the tires look sooo damn good....

the most i have ever gotten was 21mpg at 55mph

i am taking a trip to pittsburgh this weekend and wil post new numbers...

suprathepeg

89 3.0 SBX SWB 31s on 4.10s with a bad knock sensor (ecu is retarding the timing), hubs always locked and on winter gas; I get about 14mpg city only. I think with the new gears, performance engine, milage tuned fuel map and all I'd like to see about 18mpg in the city.

4x4Lamm

Numbers are in. 3 fill ups with 89 octane gas yielded an MPG increse of 2+ MPG (10.5MPG to 12.5+MPG). Mathamaticly economical too!

Now to try preminum?


Lamm

CoedNaked

Something you maybe haven't done yet to help you increase fuel mileage:

Switch to synthetic Oil such as Mobil1 10w30 or 5w30 (5w30 right now if you're in a little cooler climate plus this thinner viscoscity might help you with fuel mileage for a bit). Switch your differential and trannies' to synthetic brands as well. I'm almost willing to bet you will get at least 0.5 MPG by doing the full synthetic swap.

I also strongly suggest focusing your attention just the regular maintenance stuff first. Dist Cap, rotor, plugs, oil change, new air filter, etc, etc. Then check out the difference. Afterwards go to the more performance or "Efficiency" mods that make your engines job a little easier (like exhaust, etc.).

4x4Lamm

What about the whole "you should not switch to synthetic after 100,000 mles" notion?

I have thought about it quite a bit, but I'm still not sure. And yes, a big tune up parts replacement is in the near future.


Lamm

Sequoia'd

Lamm,
Wheel bearings usually don't squeek in my experience. They "hum" or "roar" when really bad and the "pitch" will change with the vehicle speed. Sometimes u-joints will squeek when needing replacement... if you can't remember when you re-packed the bearings, it's time to do it again anyway!!! Might be a brake part dragging. REF wheel bearings... if set too tight, milage can suffer. I added lock-out hubs when I first bought my '91 when I figured out how A.D.D. worked and milage went up 2-3 MPG on the same day!. I went with Warn and have had zero problems since. Easy install too!

sandcrawler

i think most people will opine that this is a myth. however, i managed to develop a pretty sizeable leak after switching to mobil 1 @ 107k. but i think my rig's maintenance history was probably a little dodgy prior to my taking over and getting pretty anal about it.

you should probably do a flush before switching your engine to synth oil. many folks will recommend amsoil engine flush. personally, i went the auto-rx route, which takes longer but it's not solvent-based. i'm pretty sure the amsoil flush uses solvents...someone here is sure to confirm.

i've had great success with the auto-rx and my leak is pretty much non-existent now. there's lots of positive reviews on bobistheoilguy.com -- http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi. auto-rx is http://www.auto-rx.com/ bear in mind that the website will give you the willies and perhaps not make you too confident in the product.

ps: i'm watching with interest as you build up your new rig. kinda cool to get a 2nd chance...despite the circumstances via which it arrived.

sandcrawler

ps: i would think that changing to synth in your differentials/tranny/xfer case wouldn't be as big a deal as in the engine -- provided that they are in good shape. you can run auto-rx in these to clean them up prior to making the switch, too. i have yet to do these but will likely do it sometime this year.

TNRabbit

Try putting your truck up on 4 jacks (level ground!) and engage the 4WD & front hubs, then go around spinning the wheels back & forth listening & looking for any binding. If that doesnt' help, put it in 4th gear and rev it up no more than 2k rpms and listen for the squeak to try to determine where it is. Could be cv joints, u joints, bearings, any number of things.

4x4Lamm

Here is an update fo you guys.

Currently with EASY driving I am between 11 and 12 MPG (mostly stop and go) and have seen as high as 16 highway.

I will be installing manual hubs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new K&N air filter and ISR mod, Warn hubs, new fuel filter and a new oxygen sensor all ot once.

I am really hoping it pays off. I am also toying around with tire PSI a little.

Results soon to come

Lamm

rentedmule

Hey Lamm,
The sticky brake caliper may be something to look into. I don't know if it's common on Yota's or not but I had one slowly seize on my '93 runner and at least 4 seize over about 5 years on my '84. The '84 was regularly "raced" to the point of complete brake fade which I'm sure didn't help but I babied the runner. When it happened on that it came on gradually over about 2-3 weeks until it really started to pull to one side. If one of your wheels is hot after a long drive then that could be it. 11-12 mpg's is really crappy, good luck!

4x4Lamm

Whoops, I forgot to mention that any brake drag issues were solved long ago.

I do get a somewhat loud metallic clanking often when decelerating(sounds like a metal wahboard being played) but I have no idea what it is. Maybe my CVs are buzzed, manual hubs will tell.

Lamm

Belize Off Road Team

first off, there are a lot of things that cause bad mileage on a runner...i got a 91 manual tranny, with 31" Pro Comp Xterrain directional tires, and i get an average of 15-17 in the city, and 19-25 on the highway. but when im in the city i always am in the highest gear around the speed im going. and all i've done is take my truck to a Toyota specialist (not a dealer) to fix the low idle issue (which it didnt) but it improved my mileage quite a bit! like from 15-18 up to 19-25 on the highway. i dont know what he did but i was happy. K&N drop-in filter, and thats all i've done to my engine...soon im getting a safari snorkel so i'll let you know how that turns out.