Alright, that was my guess too as it seems that a lot of people immediately add the biggest tires their lift will fit then blame the lift for all the CV and steering failures and ride quality change on the suspension.

OME front shocks do ride hard, but try ProComps, then you will appreciate how nice OME shocks are.

 

Pretty much. Plus let's face it, lifts cause wheeling which is known to break trucks. Often we put on lifts and take old parts on the trail, they fail, they get replaced, and I think usually they hold up better thereafter. At least that's my experience.

Frank

 

Its a stiffer ride with the ome shocks, but I suppose if one wanted a softer ride, they could use different shocks. As I said before it rides more like a tank, more like my old '84, but I don't mind it.

 

What shocks did you have before? Did you change the tires? OMEs are great for bombing down gravel bars/ river beds at 30mph.

 

hmmm, i am pondering whether or not a diff drop would interfere with the SS brace. any thoughts?

 

Hmm it might. A 1" tall diff drop spacers only drop the diff output flanges maybe 1/2" as you cannot lower where the diff mounts to the front crossmember, a 1" drop will bring the diff maybe 1.5" closer to the SS brace is attached Picture this:

F-----X-----R-------C---O

F is where the diff attaches to the front crossmember
X is where the axles attach to the diff
R is the rear mounts for the diff
C is right above where the Sonoran Steal IFS brace is bolted
O is where the pinion flange is located.


It doesn't look like you have 1.5" clearance.

 

hmmm , i wonder if anyone has had any first hand experience with this.


every answer is another reason to cut it all out and SAS it lol, i wish i had the money.

 

My question is:

Is it just the 1.5" lift that kills idler arms, is it the 1.5 extra up-travel, or is it that change camber when the wheel cycles?

 

[QUOTE=sa51;51007674]hmmm , i wonder if anyone has had any first hand experience with this.QUOTE]

I do, it won't fit. I removed the diff drop and uncranked my torsion bars. I have maybe 1" of lift over stock and no tire rub or CV boot problems.

Robb

 

Can you use these on 0n 92 22 re reg cab 2wd?

 

Yes check out this sight.
http://www.sdori.com/

 

I guess I don't get it, I've read up on the ball joint spacer a lot and I had come to understand that it in fact provides no lift at all, it simply moves the axle center whatever distance from the upper control arm. The reason to do this is to get that much more space betwee the upper bumpstop and upper control arm giving you more downwards articulation or "droop". Someone please correct me if I'm wrong? I thought the torsion bars are the only weight support on the front end and these are attached to the lower control arms along with the shocks. So in theory (if the wheel wouldn't fold in) you could remove the upper control arm entirely and your truck would neither go up nor down.

 

Maybe I can better explain the theory of operation here.

The spacer increases the window of travel by its thickness. If you install them and don't touch the torsion bars, the truck will sit 1.5" higher than it did before. At this point you have gained 1.5" of compression travel with no increase in droop.

What makes this confusing is that since it is so easy to adjust our torsion bars few of our trucks are still sitting a production height. When we add spacers, we often adjust them again to our liking. As a result it's hard to characterize a fixed amount of lift with spacers. We set our trucks where we like them.

What the spacers do though is return the UCA to a more level position. This improves suspension flex while maintaining ride height. You could set the UCA at a more level position without the spacers now but you would do so at the expense of ground clearance. With the spacers you can have more of both.

On our website is a write up, which might help to better understand our suspensions.

Frank

 

If you can't figure out how BJ spacers Elripster's link, you're going to need to pick up your grade 10 science text and re-read the physics portion.

 

I've heard people talk about "pounding out the stud first..." in reference to BJ spacers... what are they talking about??

 

my guess would be either rusty ball-joint mounting bolts, or the main pivoting stud on the ball-joint where it attaches to the spindle...

but I could be wrong...

 

My feeble mind can't find a reason to remove the ball joint from the spindle, so that's only if you are replacing the ball joint at the same time?

 

which i would replace while everything is apart for the spacers, unless they're fairly new

 

I didnt replace my ball joint...And I saw no need too...
lolz..

 

I won't be replacing mine until they show signs of wear, mine don't appear to.