mushy clutch pedal feeling? why?
#1
mushy clutch pedal feeling? why?
seems to get worse as it warms up when driving in the city. feels like the clutch pedal wants to stay in the down position and is having hard time coming back up. when shifting gears, i have to push or pump the pedal all the way to the floor for it to respond.
only happens when warm
only happens when warm
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
There could be air in the lines or your master/slave cylinder are getting tired. Or your bracket might have broken from the pressure that the pedal puts on it.
I recently replaced mine with ones from wabfab, and it didn't take that long..maybe an hour or two. It was a night and day difference..bled the nasty black fluid and was good to go.
I recently replaced mine with ones from wabfab, and it didn't take that long..maybe an hour or two. It was a night and day difference..bled the nasty black fluid and was good to go.
#3
Registered User
There could be air in the lines or your master/slave cylinder are getting tired. Or your bracket might have broken from the pressure that the pedal puts on it.
I recently replaced mine with ones from wabfab, and it didn't take that long..maybe an hour or two. It was a night and day difference..bled the nasty black fluid and was good to go.
I recently replaced mine with ones from wabfab, and it didn't take that long..maybe an hour or two. It was a night and day difference..bled the nasty black fluid and was good to go.
You probably have a leak in your slave cylindar and it's letting air in. Just put a new one on and bleed the entire system. Then you should be good to go...
#6
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Mine was mush as well, and I would have a hard time shifting it. Turns out I was tracking gross black fluid all.over from the leak at the master cylinder. New master cylinder and its perfect.
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#10
i used a vacum cylinder tool to suck the fluid from the reservoir. didnt make a difference, in fact it got worse. i think i need to drain/bleed the fluid from the bottom?
also how hard is it to replace the master cylinder? and how do you bleed the system once the master cylinder is replaced?
thanks
also how hard is it to replace the master cylinder? and how do you bleed the system once the master cylinder is replaced?
thanks
#12
to bench bleed: add fluid to the reservoir and manually pump the master cylinder?
install master: removing and installing the master seems easy from the outside. what about the inside? is there a large pin in between the pedal assembly and master cylinder that needs to be removed/installed?
i know the fluid comes out from the bleeder. whats the procedure to properly bleed it? same as the brake system? push clutch pedal, bleed, tighten bleeder valve, let go clutch, repeat same process until no bubbles or air are present? then at the end slow push clutch pedal, allow a bit of fluid to come out from the bleeder and tight bleeder valve before clutch pedal reaches bottom?
install master: removing and installing the master seems easy from the outside. what about the inside? is there a large pin in between the pedal assembly and master cylinder that needs to be removed/installed?
i know the fluid comes out from the bleeder. whats the procedure to properly bleed it? same as the brake system? push clutch pedal, bleed, tighten bleeder valve, let go clutch, repeat same process until no bubbles or air are present? then at the end slow push clutch pedal, allow a bit of fluid to come out from the bleeder and tight bleeder valve before clutch pedal reaches bottom?
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
On the outside there are just two nuts to take off, along with the line. From the inside, it might be best to remove the driver seat so you have some room..or if your really flexible just go to it . Take the bottom part of the dash off, along the tube that goes to your heater vent/nut warmer. There is a pin on the clutch pedal that holds the rod in that goes to the master cylinder.
Take out the pin, two bolts, and the fluid line and your set. It took me and a buddy about an hour to replace the master and slave.
You had the right idea about bleeding it. Do it the same way you would brakes. Use the buddy from above instructions (or wife/girlfriend..just keep telling them they look sexy with a wrench in their hand ).
Take out the pin, two bolts, and the fluid line and your set. It took me and a buddy about an hour to replace the master and slave.
You had the right idea about bleeding it. Do it the same way you would brakes. Use the buddy from above instructions (or wife/girlfriend..just keep telling them they look sexy with a wrench in their hand ).
#15
LOL
Sorry...but I insist on the wrench in my hand, thank you vary much.
Put them in the cab taking orders from the guy with the wrench.
Also, make sure you put that rubber cap back on...it will be so much easier the next time (20 years or so).
Sorry...but I insist on the wrench in my hand, thank you vary much.
Put them in the cab taking orders from the guy with the wrench.
Also, make sure you put that rubber cap back on...it will be so much easier the next time (20 years or so).
#16
thanks guys.
i just got back from flushing the entire clutch master and slave cylinder fluid. got all the nasty stuff out and it made no difference at the end. bleed all the air out of the system and it still dragging air back in. looks like I will be replacing both master cylinder and slave cylinder. the slave cylinder looks old anyway and I can feel too much play in it.
will get back with results.
thanks for the info
by the way I had an uncle help with the pedal. my wife is at work ;p
i just got back from flushing the entire clutch master and slave cylinder fluid. got all the nasty stuff out and it made no difference at the end. bleed all the air out of the system and it still dragging air back in. looks like I will be replacing both master cylinder and slave cylinder. the slave cylinder looks old anyway and I can feel too much play in it.
will get back with results.
thanks for the info
by the way I had an uncle help with the pedal. my wife is at work ;p
#17
Registered User
Good call on using your uncle. I had my wife "help" me bleed the clutch. I put her in the cab, crawled under and told her to push the clutch to the floor. We went thru several rounds, I never got any fluid coming out the bleeder. I kept crawling out to check the master, see the what heck was going on....and of course she was pressing the brake.
#18
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Sinful, its always a good idea if your replacing one to replace the other. They seem to go out at the same time. If you replaced one then it might make the other go bad because of the pressure difference. The slave isn't that expensive, and it takes just a few minutes to change out.
Let us know what you come up with.
#20
update:
replaced master cylinder only and everything is working perfect now. I couldn't find the slave cylinder in stock at our local parts store so we had to take a chance.
believe it or not it cost me like 12 bucks for the master cylinder including a 1/4 of motorcraft brake fluid at our local parts store here in Mexico state of Nayarit. Can't get better than this !
replaced master cylinder only and everything is working perfect now. I couldn't find the slave cylinder in stock at our local parts store so we had to take a chance.
believe it or not it cost me like 12 bucks for the master cylinder including a 1/4 of motorcraft brake fluid at our local parts store here in Mexico state of Nayarit. Can't get better than this !
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