MaK92-4RnR

Directions on the ohm meter went in one ear and out the other. I'd need a step by step diagram on how to use that on a relay to seriously understand what im supposed to do with it on the relay

I need it fixed by this weekend, b4.

I need to find out what I need to replace first, myyota. for all i know its cleaning the switches. but i'll check out his threads to see if he had a related problem.

myyota

Try the easy fix first, pull the switch out and carefully take it a part and clean it and see if that fixes the problem, if not then move on to the window relay.

stormin94

Mine used to do exactly the same thing. If I would slam the tailgate, sometimes the key would roll it up. It was my relay, and I replaced it with a relay out of an early 90's Jeep Cherokee. It might not've been the same OEM one but it fits and it works perfectly.....almost. My window won't roll up or down with the key anymore, but that's ok because I never used that anyway. And that might just be the key switch and not have anything to do with the relay.

MaK92-4RnR

K so, I had a local mechanic ( friend of mine ) check it out. theres power to the motor ONLY when the key is turned to the LEFT, which is the "UP" position. turned to the right, nothing ( but the window was down already. Also, I pulled the switches... how the hell do these damn things come apart? He said I should clean the switches... pull them out of the Center console and they look damn clean... I'll post pictures in a minute.

but yeah, new questions

How do I open up the switches to clean them?

also, if i have power going to the motor. what does that mean? everything up till the motor is functioning?

also, if everything up till the motor IS functional, that means the switches are infact dirty, correct?

Heres the pictures of the switches out of the console.

MaK92-4RnR

anybody?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Never opened one up, but see if there is any seam that can be pried apart. But first step would be to hook up an ohm meter or test light and see if the up and down contacts are making contact (i.e. the reading goes from infinite/open circuit to 0/short circuit) when you flip the switch between up and down. If you get a solid 0 ohm reading on one side only, then that says the switch is bad, so see if you can open it up - worst thing to happen is you destroy the switch in doing so, but you already know it is bad. But if you get solid 0 ohm readings for up and down, then the switch may be OK and the problem may be elsewhere.

toyota4x4907

Yeah you have to pry it open. You will probably end up breaking the little tabs that hold it together, but for over a year mine has been working fine since I took them apart.

MaK92-4RnR

the OHM meter doesn't fit in the small sockets, so its not possible for me to get a reading. also, how do you get a reading if you have to unplug the switch to check if theres electricity going to it? I promise this is the last time i'll touch anything involving fixing electrical again.

pry it open where... they're completely solid.

MaK92-4RnR

pretty much given up on getting this PoS to work. probably just gonna take it to a mechanic and take the hit on however much its going to cost because I simply do not have the patience for this bullcrap. I cant get the switches open, nor do I want to break them to get them open.

toyota4x4907

I dont remember It was last summer when I did it.

MaK92-4RnR

took the switches to a mechanic, told them to wash them and that i'd pick them up in the morning. apparently im retarded, he opened them in about 30 seconds, but that hes gonna keep them over night, dip them in a solution, sand, wire brush, and then they should work.

sportbiker929

the corrosion will be inside the switch.

MaK92-4RnR

I know, its being cleaned, just not by me. I couldn't open the switch

regnar11b

I had the same issue your having... first I thought it was the switch so I pulled it out sanded the contact and nothing new... I bought a used black relay for behind the cargo compartment and nothing changed. So I yanked the motor in the rear door and took the round metal cover off of the plastic housing. It turns out that the motor is separate from the gear that turns the window up and down, what holds the two together is a rubber ring. The rubber ring had become brittle with age and no longer held the gear to the motor. I guess this rubber housing acts like a clutch for the little motor so it doesn't over heat. As a quick fix I drilled a hole from the motor gear to he actual gear and screwed them together and put the cover back on and my window worked perfectly. I used it like that for about 8 months before I found a new rear motor on ebay for $40 and yanked it and replaced it with the new one and it still works the same. That's my experience so just a heads up for you.

MaK92-4RnR

ended up being the switch needing to be cleaned... but, the switch is highly worn out from my repetitive clicking... so it has problems rolling down SOMETIMES. but it goes up and down at the click of a button now

Thanks for everyones help. those of you who said it was the switch... you were right

vanderwiel

After screwing around with my window for an entire day i got angry and hardwired it. I bought a momentary contact switch and some wire from radioshack and wired the switch to a fuse and then back to the motor

works fine, just have an extra switch now next to the "clutch start cancel" button

not a bad plan if you're getting annoyed with the window... i think it has alot to do with the various safety checks that must be passed in order for the window to roll down.. now i can roll it down under any condition its awesome

stormin94

So cleaning the inside switch made your outside key work fine again?

MaK92-4RnR

actually, I just found the issue. after driving the window stopped working again. I got fed up with it, drove back home. yelled at it for about an hour. and i realized that a piece of the windshield wiper was hanging down.... so while turning the key, i tucked it back up. and the window rolled down?! i was like wtf... moved the plastic piece hanging down, and it wouldn't roll down anymore... moved it back up, rolled down again... so this entire time its been the sensor that keeps track of my windshield wiper being 100% off the window being broken... its just been dangling there. which makes sense... because the window only works sometimes, driving around having it swing back and forth sometimes let the window work but now i got it working 100%... sweet.

stormin94

Lol. I can put my window down while the wiper is on or vise versa. The PO had some fun with the wiring and sensors back there.

georghammond

oi - Looks like I'm going to be joining in on the rear window motor fun.

I've got an 84 4runner tho. Not sure if this motor set up is much different. If it is, maybe it's worth starting a new post for the 1st gen-ers.